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Hi Baz, I managed to get to see the pictures by getting into photo bucket first . Liked the the use of the compound slide. What suburb do you live? .

One of my pet hates and see it all the time on Utube, is men operating machinery with long sleeved coats on and the sleeves down. ROLL THEM UP. My old Fitter & Turner during my school years would have a real hizzy fit if any of the students even entered the workshop with long sleeves down.

Hi Barry, If you bought it locally then I would be pretty sure that it is 16 X 1.5

Hi Herbie if the finish is good then no, they don't need lapping. In the motor industry they do not lap in the valves. Not keen on the valves seating in an ali head. If you find you that you do have "Valve leakage" tooth paste or Brasso is the general path most seem to take. I would prefer...

Hi Baz, Well that is a nice shed trouble is you have built it in the wrong location;) To have that much room would be great, big enough to installl my bed. Good luck to you and love to see it when the machinery is installed.

The 2 bearing motor was used a lot for racing in the 750cc class. Reason for this is that crank ran in roller bearings. Yes they snapped very easily. You can purchase a crank now that has been machined from a billet. Expensive but seems to last a lot longer. About 1930 Austin changed...

Had exactly same problem with my X2. After playing with electronics for a few years, and I do mean playing. I was convinced it was the rheostat. So pulled the cover of and sprayed inside the rheostat best I could with WD40, followed by a dose of low pressure air to remove as much of the fluid...

Very well done, the time spent has been well and truly worth it . A piece that you can be proud of.

Hi Kerry another Sth Aussie that is good all the more the merrier. Huge amount of talent on this forum and all very helpful in case of a problem. Cheers

Cutler Hammer used to be, and possibly still is a manufacturer of high quality industrial electrical control gear . Very high quality and expensive.

Welcome to the forum. There are a lot of very talented people here and all seem to be very helpful if you have a problem . Where about in Aus are you?

Hi Dave, Looks as though you are off to a very good start. That seems to be a piece of professorial machining. Be careful modelling does become a disease.

Hi Bob good to see you are making progress. Sparks, compression, fuel is all that you need to make it go bang. Then you have to get the cam and ignition timing correct and the correct air fuel ratio and it has to run. You have done well considering the interruptions and distance between home...

I use collets for this process then you are always holing on an un threaded section Barry

Micheal, Yes you have to remove and thoroughly clean the machine. Re lubricate it with suggested oils and greases in the manual and also adjust the gibs. Barry G

Make a new one. An offset wrist pin will cause excessive piston wear. It will probably run OK but only for a short time. I have tried offset crank shafts in racing motors but never sure the small gains was worth the effort. Barry G

I have the air spring from LMS also bought their belt drive . Best money I have spent. The mill no longer makes loud grinding noise in your ears and the head stays where you put it with the air spring. Barry G

Thanks Ralph. I well remember (now) we had one as well. Ours was a water wheel very soft white stone with a trough under it that was filled with water. The frame was made out of wood, no seat ( must have been poverty model) . Love the axes as well. my skills at wood working will not allow me to...

Very nice Simon. I would leave it with the rotating base. I like that little "feature" . Barry

Recently I fixed a problem with the my little lathe . The carriage hand wheel always seemed to have handle in a position that it was difficult for me to use the crosslide handle. Removed the 4" carriage hand wheel and replaces with a 3" from Honk Kong $9 including post. Now my fat fingers...