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Brownells has a few options.

Nice lady is out for a stroll in the countryside. It's a clear autumn day, not unlike today. Leaves are changing and the sun is just the late side of afternoon, going to the orange tint before settling down for dusk. As she's walking she comes upon farmer Dave out with his fat pig; Dave's the...

This is kind of interesting. http://www.observationsblog.com/4/post/2011/10/anodizing-and-dying-aluminum-without-battery-acid.html

Thanks Marv! Just got a 23rd printed 1988 for $7. Figured that it's got to be at least 1/10th of the value of a used 28th edition.

I feel like I should get a copy of this manual as it seems to be the bible for this sort of work and while I imagine that I can find most of it's information scattered about the web I'd like to have one place where I look when I have questions about machine setups. Is there any major differences...

Thanks for all the thoughts guys! I didn't know 45° machines existed but I really like the backstop idea. I don't have a belt-sander and I am hacksawing all of my stock so my arms are less inclined to agree with me that I should file the edges (but I do like the look and control of filed edges).

I like putting 45° chamfers on everything I make on the surface edges of the part but it's always hard to hit the same amount of chamfer on all edges. Recently I've been clamping the work on a little pair of V blocks that I made and touching off the top of the corner with a endmill and facing...

That's expected, most heatsink compound is designed to conduct heat but not electricity. If it did then a whole bunch of electronics would break because heatsinks are often grounded. I'd make the fins with a "finger" post at each end, loctite the finger into a deeper recess in the grove and use...

The enco free shipping deals that pop up will net you a B plate for next to nothing. The shipping is what kills. Got my 12 x 18 for $36 and free shipping. I've started collecting 10mm combination wrenches (I don't really know why other than I seem to use them a lot). I should make a photo album...

One thing of note is that Wika will build you damn near anything you want and it doesn't cost you any more (just time). Also they build all there gauges in the USA. I've ordered a few custom gauges through these guys and they were fantastic. http://www.dfs-gauges.com/ (Warning, total...

Great guys! I'll grab a mat and a stool today. I need to put a bunch of hours down on the mill and the sooner I'm done the sooner I get to go camping this weekend. Thanks, as always for the great guidance. Milo

I've been thinking about a stool but I sit all day at work and I'd like to break it up a bit. It's still a consideration though so I might just go that route. I've got to re-layout the shop anyway, might as well do it such that I have access to everything from a stool.

If I put in six or more hours in front of the bench I'm a fair bit sore afterwards and I'd like to figure out how to put in longer hours without it taking so much out of me. Any recommendations? My girlfriend who used to bartend says I need a bar mat.

Tin, not sure how I missed that page :o Quite helpful.

Perfection. Exactly what I was looking for :bow:

I think high speed and multiple flutes would help. Also I'd sandwitch the CDs in plywood and go through them that way. Also I still have these. http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=13077.msg138559#msg138559

I think that the piston is really your limiting factor here. A boring head will do most of the work you need and other parts don't necessarily need to be round (like counterweights and bellcranks). Without a boring head I don't think building a working engine is possible on a mill. Additionally...

Forgive the elementry nature of the question but how do you true cylindricial stock on a lathe? I've just bought a little used lathe and I'm sure there is a trick to this but most of the stock that I have is bowed, bent, rough in surface etc. The method of truing a cube on the mill was...

Thanks for the help guys! I learned two things since posting. One is that setting these valves too loose isn't really a problem, and the other is that they will tighten up a bit once you've run them in. So I guess I'm going to shoot for a little looser .009" feel than I've got. I am still...

I'm currently setting the valves on an engine project that I'm building and the specifications have prompted a question regarding the proper use of feeler gauges. It seems like there are three different "modes" the feeler gauge can be in. Very Tight, I can pull the gauge out but can't get it...