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When drawing an engine in Alibre, I quickly learned to make the parts move while in the CAD program and avoid collisions. The drawings reflect the designer's information, from their drawings, and printed and verbal text. As you can see from this drawing from Issue #7 of Model Engine Builder, a...

Looking good, Brian. I will stick my neck out and suggest that to avoid marking up aluminum in a chuck, you cut a strip of soft drink can aluminum and wrap the piece in it before clamping. The other point I'll make is that if I remember correctly, the original Upshur design leaked oil past the...

I think I have two copies of the original book on the Virginia plus one on the Tich.

Consider coming to a Bay Area Engine Modelers club meeting. https://www.baemclub.com/pages/next meeting.html for further information. Next month we will be attending the Makers Faire at the Solano Community College so we won't be meeting at the Golden Gate Live Steamers clubhouse.

Microproto supplied my TAIG mill to Robert Washburn. Not a bad setup although, when I got the system, I rebuilt the Z-axis holding system to insure it would not move.

Here is a picture of my TAIG CNC mill. It has a Sherline head and motor, the controls are Flashcut CNC and the frame was heavily rebuilt to keep the Z-Axis from moving. This unit was originally owned by the editor of Strictly IC, Robert Washburn. I also have a DynaMite mill with a servo system...

In one rotational direction, the bearing seizes the shaft on which it is placed. in the other, the shaft free-wheels. Used in transmissions and in this case, for the starter.

Very nice.

How did you treat the bed before printing?

It is fortunate that the Bambu Labs slicer automatically compensates for Elephant Foot unless you disable it. I have had my X1C for a little over a month and have never seen the phenomenon. My Qidi X-one (December 20216) does create an Elephant Foot using their slicer. You can manually...

Bambu's 0.2 nozzle seems to work very well. There are some filaments they recommend not using with it but the finished print can be extremely smooth.

A solid print is fully cured. A hollow print does need to be cured inside unless, as I found out, you want it to pop open later on. I made a UV curing light with a UV LED, a 1/8" brass tube, and a printed enclosure on the other end to hold a power connector. It works fine to cure the interior...

The Hoglet has been the most popular build article in Model Engine Builder magazine. It is in issues 10 & 11.

Copyright applies whether the document mentions it or not unless it specifically rescinds copyright.

Running a Bambu with a 0.2mm nozzle in slow mode with variable layer thickness turned on leaves an almost imperceptible surface finish problem. Given the amount of work needed to clean up a 'normal' 3D print, I'd spend the $300 to get the small Bambu printer and save hours in the post-processing.

The copyrights to Bob's book were passed on to his son. Some of his engine designs were passed on to other folks who were supposed to continue making them available. I have a 4-cylinder casting set from one of them. I could probably find his name with some effort.

I"d not use 12L14 for the liner. Use a full-length hone to finish the liner bore. Trimble-style rings.

Dwight Giles, one of the two designers of the Black Widow has built quite a few of them. You could call him if you have questions. 707 648-1431. He lives in Northern California.

The best color is an 18% gray card which is the what the average scene looks like to a camera. Colored backdrops tend to reflect off the bright metal components of the subject and end up looking strange in the final picture. In my magazine, all the pictures are made in a light tent if possible...

Wherever you find the cast iron, the best rings seem to always have been of the 40K cast iron. 10 V-8s have been made using this material for the rings. They fit well and don't smoke.