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  1. M

    Aladdin's cave of machines to dispose of - help needed

    I bought a couple of cabinets of assorted bits - I'm very pleased but there's a couple of small items that have "Dore Westbury" on the bag - so if the person who bought that item would send me a message on here, I'll see if we can get the parts to you. Richard
  2. M

    Tiny V-block fixture for making fittings

    I love simple jigs & fixtures to make jobs easier! This is a superb example. One point - when I was taught silver soldering (far too many years ago!) while building oboe & flute keywork we were encouraged to have the two faces as near parallel and in as close contact as possible so that there...
  3. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    Hi Eric, there's a fabulous series of articles in Model Engineer from January 2002 with many tips which I have found useful. There's also a series of pictures on the web detailing the machining of most of the parts, here: Gnome - Google Drive There's another here: Gnome Rotary Aero Engine...
  4. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    Thanks Pete, it's good to know there's another incomplete set of engine parts somewhere! I have been able, while setting up the new machine, to check the truth of the Gnome crankshaft between the main bearing journal and the front journal and I'm happy with it. Making the crankshaft in two...
  5. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    I've just noticed that I haven't posted anything on this thread for six months. That's what happens when you buy another lathe that needs fettling before use!
  6. M

    Gypsy Engine

    Lovely work! As ever, it’s the jigs and fixtures that takes the time but the work would be impossible without them!
  7. M

    Unsatisfied !?

    In my case, I’m building the 9-cylinder Gnome radial to improve my skills in machine work. I’ve already made several more parts than strictly necessary. When I get the engine running I’ll be happy.
  8. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    One of the comments in the ME article is that the main parts of the engine are finish machined assembled on a mandrel, to ensure concentricity. There is so little of the casting left after machining that variations in density are unlikely to make a difference. If the cylinders and valve gear are...
  9. M

    A DRO for my Roundbed

    Oh dear! Now the lathe is for sale….I’ve only gone and bought a Myford Super 7. ask me for details!
  10. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    A couple more photos of the tappet guides: Lots of tiddlers.....
  11. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    Here's a couple of photos I forgot to include, first one is a collection of parts, I made a couple more before work this morning: And I've established a process for the first procedure, adjust the material length in the chuck, set the DRO zero on both axes, reduce the diameter to 0.25" for a...
  12. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    Oh, it's so slow sometimes - sometimes it seems like days of work produces only a few parts! Here's some more progress: A series of photos showing the front gear housing; first roughing out the mounting flange, then boring out the internal gear case, reducing the outer diameter and tapering for...
  13. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    It's time I made an update, after several weeks of nothing but a little bit of machining here and there, a 12,000 mile round trip to visit family and sorting out another project that had a deadline..... I've been working on the front tappet rod housing which keeps the cam followers aligned with...
  14. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    A little bit of progress, it's been a busy month and I've really only finished the crankcase, the rear bearing housing, made a small chuck for the cylinders so I can machine the cylinder heads, almost finished the commutator ring, that sort of thing. I was in the workshop one day and decided...
  15. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    Some more work to show, it's the turn of the crankcase today - setting out and starting to bore, screwcut and fit the master cylinder. Here's the setting out, using the Myford dividing head and a scriber: Then it's onto marking the cylinder centres - I managed to mark them all slightly...
  16. M

    SS Great Britian, 1843, 322feet, 1,000 HP steam with sail assist

    The tidal range in Bristol is between 12 to 14 metres (40 feet to 46 feet) so there's plenty of depth for even quite large ships. It's th second highest tidal range in the world - beaten only by the Bay of Fundy with up to 53 feet. The main navigational hazard was the bend between Avonmouth and...
  17. M

    SS Great Britian, 1843, 322feet, 1,000 HP steam with sail assist

    Wonderful to see such joyous reviews of the museum in the town that’s been my home since 1996. The work that has gone into preserving the SS Great Britain is astonishing and gives us a real insight into the development of steam ships. Not far away is the replica Matthew, the small ship that took...
  18. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    Some more photos from today, first making a master cylinder with correct dimensions to use as a gauge for the crankcase machining. The light chatter is due to using the 'wrong' edge of the tool...: And here's it's bored to something like the correct size. Les specified a bore of 0.745"but I...
  19. M

    First steps into a Gnome

    A quick note about thread sizes. I hadn't previously heard of the "Model Engineer" thread specification but having found a chart covering ¹⁄₈" to ½" diameter threads of Whitworth form in both 32tpi and 40tpi, the thread sizes that Les Chenery uses make more sense. Richard
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