Search results

A friend has had good success with scored small engine cylinders by filling the grooves with J B Weld, then sanding to match the surrounding metal. Might be worth a try before doing something more involved.

I have found that Tap Magic for Aluminum is the best cutting fluid out there for all non ferrous metals. It's especially good on the soft gummy ones like copper and soft aluminum. It extremely reduces the friction and torque required for any machining operation, especially threading ones. I use...

I was wondering about that too.:confused:

I would use an edge finder. Quick, easy, cheap.

In the USA, this is $16.32 US. + shipping for a 16 0z. bottle. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Ddiy&field-keywords=Tap+Magic+%2320016A It's 55.27 pounds, look at the link above. Still too much though.

Slitting saws need to run pretty slow, depending on the diameter. Maybe 150 - 300 rpm. Kerosene, WD-40, etc. is not nearly as good as TapMagic, but a lot of people won't spend the money (not that much) if they already have something else sitting there.

The one thing you can do above all else is to get some TapMagic for Aluminum. Just a little of this in the cutting zone makes everything else not as critical. You will get good surface finish and the aluminum won't stick to the cutting tool. Works great for all non-ferrous metals too, such as...

Be very careful when using Brake Cleaner. Some kinds will create Phosgene gas when exposed to heat. A little bit of that can kill you or anyone who breathes it.

I suppose fast wear is relative. It would wear out fast compared to hard steel. I get about a year and a half out of my 7/16 - 20 R8 drawbars that get daily use. You might get a couple of years out of an allthread one with hobby use.

The bottom pic looks like a different engine?:confused: Or am I not looking at it right?

A mild steel drawbar will not last very long. The threads will strip off. It would be better to weld a grade 8 bolt on the bottom or use drill rod and harden the threaded part. Another approach would be to use allthread and make the top part so it screws on, with a pin through. When the threads...

Very interesting mechanics. Thanks much for taking the time to answer my questions. Best Regards - Warren

That is a good looking and interesting design. I am curious - how do you make a 1 piece crankshaft and 1 piece connecting rod and assemble them. Also, how are the valves sealed off from the combustion chamber?

That looks like a nice tool for the money. Just a chuck could cost as much as they want for the whole deal.

For fruit flies and gnats, I put out a bowl of Apple Cider Vinegar with some liquid dish soap. The soap breaks the surface tension so once they land, they are stuck and soon drown. For flying insects I spray the windows with bug spray. The ones with Pyrethrin seem to be the fastest acting. By...

I usually use a vegetable based cooking oil for that. Olive, sunflower, canola, etc. The motor oil may have chemicals that attack the blue. Or skip the oil & go to wax.

I like to rinse well with hot water, oil and let sit for a day, then wipe off oil and wax with car or furniture wax.

Nitre Blue for guns gives a similar iridescent bright blue as the heating. It is only for show pieces normally, as it doesn't hold up to a lot of handling as well as a normal hot blue.

The Scotch Yoke would be my call. Those are smooth running and can last a long time.

When I click to see Sponsors, it just takes me back to the Forum home page. Edit - I found the Sponsor's Forum, but there doesn't seem to be anyone there.