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  1. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    I should have done that in the first place. Seriously thou, thanks for pointing out the obvious. Live and learn.
  2. swarf

    Round Column Mill

    I picked a mill/drill practically brand new for 500$ Canadian six yrs ago. It has its short comings, but it does what I ask of it. If it's good enuf for Keith Appleton, it's good enuf for me.
  3. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    So gents here it is. New connecting rod, big end machined to spec. This obviously is the top half of the rod. The spec from center of big end to center of little end is 1 11/16". I have layed this out out on the little end and as you can see, not in the center. I have a few ideas, what do you think?
  4. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    I recall the words "hydrodynamic wedge" being used explaining the film of oil between bearing and pins.
  5. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    Lol I'm no machinist either. I'm good at taking perfectly good material and turning it into scrap in a very short period of time. I can lay metal in thou. As I'm a pipe welder by day and a wanna be model maker by night.
  6. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    That's what I pictured. In any case I purchased a new rod forging and will start over. Good practice for me.
  7. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    I opted out for two more connecting rods, as they are reasonably priced and readily available.
  8. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    Hi Andrew, As a matter of fact, I'm watching most of your videos to build this engine. The vid of the con rod is what I've looked at recently. Good for you on adapting to the twisted small end of the rod. It worked out well and doesn't seem to affect the engines performance at all. Thanks
  9. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    How obvious, never thought of that. They'll need to be .100 thick. I went and ordered another con rod yesterday. No big deal. Live and learn. Thanks
  10. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    Maybe this will help explain what I'm getting at. You'll notice the split at the big end to little end center is what it should be. The problem is I had to remove .050 from each half of the big end to get it right. In doing so, I now have insufficient material to drill and ream the big end bore.
  11. swarf

    Stuart 10v

  12. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    Here's my second attempt at the piston. Worked out well.
  13. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    Hi Richard, suppose to be 1 11/16" or 1.687". I used digital calipers. Then checked with a height gage on a surface plate. In order to center the little end I had to take off 50 thou on each half of the big end That worked, but now there's not enuf meat for the hole on the big end. Will see if...
  14. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    New problem. After partially machining the connecting rod, I find that the hole on the small end of the connecting rod is nowhere near center. I machined the big end to the point of having accurate dimensions after having split and mill it. After laying out for both holes, I find the hole for...
  15. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    As mentioned, I got the piston on the second try. Have pics but can't post them, because the files are to big. Don't know how to correct that.
  16. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    Took two trys, but I got it.
  17. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    How about a Greek geek?
  18. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    Thanks Steamchick, Plenty of info to mull over. Think I'm going to make a new piston, and go with graphite packing for the seal.
  19. swarf

    Stuart 10v

    Well here it is, not a quite a year later and I've made some progress on my engine. I left off with oversize bearings but have since corrected the problem on the casting and machined new bearings. Moved on to the piston and piston rod. After machining the piston I now have a two and a half thou...
  20. swarf

    What have you been doing today?

    Got tired of using firewood or coal. So I adapted a furnace burner to be used in my combo stove for the garage. Piped it up and now semi instant heat.
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