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I noted a member mentioned living in the Port Townsend, Washington area. Believe moniker 10K Pete. Any chance of chatting? Arlie 360 379-1253. I enjoy small engine machine work.

Would like to make contact with 10K. I also live in Port Townsend. Arlie ph. 360 379-1253

A lot of great comments. Lockdown has hurt all of us. The machine shows were a great inspiration. Rubbing elbows with other hobby machinists and speaking machine speak. This site allows me to enjoy the hobby when I need a break.

In the past I always had too much energy. Loved the Navy and 12 hour plus days never bothered me. Retirement allowed time with my machines. Along the way I discovered I might be getting old. I cherish a break now and then from making engines and just sit. Sitting can be fun. Gives me time...

Welcome Dave. Nice work. Wisconsin is one of our favorites. Especially enjoyed a visit to the Circus World Museum in Baraboo, among many other wonderful sites.

I have used Permatex High Temp Sleeve Retainer with great success. Small tube and inexpensive. Got mine at the local NAPA store. Suggestion, get your parts lined up right the first time.

Have you considered making your own gears? Pretty simple if you have a rotary table and mill. You can make your own involute cutters and arbor with metal you probably already have.

Very nice. Wonderful sound and beautiful workmanship. Congrats.

I've had good success with The O-Ring Store LLC. For the Howell Farm Boy I used Model B70117-BRN They are inexpensive, unfortunately they no longer use USPS, so there is now a shipping fee. Just order lots of them to cover shpping.

My plug fouled with Coleman fuel. Works fine on acetone.

I usually use cast iron for piston sleeves. I try to run the lathe in and out many times to get the best possible finish. Next I make an aluminum piston that is just a bit under the dimension of the ID of the sleeve. Mineral oil and Bon Ami makes a good slurry. I work it by hand in and out...

Needed intake and exhaust pipes on my 5 cylinder aircraft engine. Intake needed two bends, exhaust only one. Ground a bit with radius for 9/32 tubing. Made two grooved wheels in aluminum. One wheel was mounted stationary. The other was movable to make the bend. Melted cerrobend into the...

About 1960 in our town an old galvanized metal water heater safety valve stuck. It went through the roof and traveled a good distance before it landed. Luckily no one was hurt.

Looks like you are pretty close. Wonder if the chuck is a tad off on the rotary table. I would check the rotation of the chuck with a dial indicator. Maybe some foreign object in one of the jaws.

Making a steel holder is my method although I thread it for a nut. Cast iron can make good gears. Make sure everything is tight. Disappointing when getting to the last teeth to find something slipped.

Thanks to all that have given me inputs. Found a 3/16 stainless steel rod at a hobby shop. Used a 10-32 die and it threaded very nicely.

I may have misled. Drilled 1/16 inch hole in rod for roll pin, then used 10-32 die to thread the rod for the propeller nut. The particular rod metal bought at the hobby shop was very easy to work. The rod from hardware stores is too hard. I wonder why the difference?

Used to get 3/16 steel rod for model boat propeller shafts. Was able to easily drill 1/16 hole and thread 10-32. All rod available now is too hard to drill or tap. Not sure what it was that I bought in the past that was so forgiving.

A professional welder adept at brazing might at least be worth asking. Had a mishap with a casting and it was put back together perfectly saving me several hundred dollars. Lot of talent out there in the world.

Still quits after about 30 minutes after trying helpful suggestions. It is not hot to the touch. The liquid in the hopper never gets warm. Noticed an odd sucking sound near the carburetor. Maybe that is normal. (Don't normally wear hearing aids in the shop.)