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I have a SB 15" and SB 13" lathes. I simply use my combination square measured from the flat way. For some operations i.e. taper boring, cutting grooves, etc. having the cutting tool exactly on center is more important, but for most simple boring, being right on center is not necessary. On small...

When I made my three engines I made the pins this way. There is a secret to making small diameter pins like these. You turn them from stock well oversize i.e. 1/8" (3mm) diameter and turn them to final size all in one pass. Touch the outside of the stock with a very sharp HSS tool bit and dial...

Attached is a set of drawings that includes the missing linkage drawings. It's hard to tell from that one picture, but it looks like the linkages you made are a little heavier in diameter than design, which, I understand because you had an un-updated copy of the drawings that was missing these...

Here are videos of mine running. In the video with all three you'll notice the one engine in the middle up high is running slower than the other two. This was the first one I made (one for my wife) and I learned from making that one the importance of this CI bearing having a true bore for the...

Drilling/reaming the hole in the horizontal CI bearing is where the trouble is.... most likely the hole did not drill perfectly straight. Small drills will walk off center very easily. Just drilling/reaming typically won't cut it. Measure the wall thickness all the way around the bearing on the...

I've built 3 of these and also have helped others with similar problems... they seem smooth, but just don't want to run. Do some searching in this group (and others) and you'll see some posts including this one: https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/stirling-60.30328/ In my...

To tell you the truth, I don't remember what kind I used, so that leads me to believe they were not anything other than Viton. You need an air tight seal. There isn't much pressure so you just want to make sure that 1- it's air tight and 2- it holds the test tube in place. Ted

I've read that the Piston should trail the Displacer by 90 degrees. And looking at the drawing for the Moriya it does show it timed that way. Ted

I am far from a stirling engine expert... but here's my take on it. I agree with Ken that the whole concept of the glass tube and brass displacer are just to make things "pretty". It's neat being able to see that brass displacer move back and forth while it's running. The whole engine is...

I just followed the original drawings for the clearance between the displacer and the tube. It should not be too tight by design. Thermodynamics aside, my nemesis on all three of the engines I built was the CI bearing and the sliding fit of the displacer/rod. Being a horizontal design makes...

I hand ground a radius tool bit and formed the radius using that. I used sections of the cutting edge to rough it in and then, very lightly, used the whole cutting edge to finish it using very light cutting pressure. The inside steel radiused mandrel helps to support it. I used 360 brass which...

Not sure if the end needs to be hemi or not. My guess is that hemi is best because it better fits the end contour of the glass tube and will more completely move the air out of the glass tube, which is what the displacer needs to do... Nothing inside the displacer; just hollow. Needs to be as...

I used high temp Loctite on my brass ones and they are holding up fine, so I'm sure the JB will work well for you. Ted

I have a ball cutting attachment I made, but I simply used a radius tool made out of a piece of HSS. 360 brass cuts very freely. Just take it easy. Also, I used 620 Loctite and haven't had a problem with any of the 3 engines. IMO, brass looks much better than the aluminum, but beauty is in the...

I'm not sure how the OP did his, but I've made three of these. I machined mine out of 360 brass round bar stock, making it around 0.015" thick walls. I drilled the ID and then went in with a rounded end mill to produce the internal radius. Then, machined the OD and cut off. I made a steel plug...

I ordered all 4 of my VFDs from this place: https://www.factorymation.com/ No sales tax and free shipping. I'm very happy with them. Ted

They make the parts for the Prusa Mk3S+ at their factory on their own "farm" from PETG and commonly use either a slot or a hex hole and you will push nuts into these when assembling your printer. Works very well. Some also use metal threaded inserts that you can pick up from McMaster Carr and...

I'm not much help here with those problems. The prints I've done so far and measured, with PLA only, have been spot on expect for Z which was just a little off. When I say spot on, I mean within 0.001". The edges did budge out a few thousandths, but the wall dimensions were very good. That's...

Now the interface for adaptive layering is a little different than in the video. You have to click the tool bar menu item in the attached picture (top tool bar) and the adaptive layering menu comes up. It's the icon with the horizontal lines next to the return arrow. Ted

Yes, that's the user group I belong to and it is very helpful. It also looks like we have some pretty knowledgeable people on this group as well! I'll be looking into that adaptive slicing setting! If you are designing the part yourself in a CAD program you can add a small chamfer on the...