Search results

Sky blue??:D:rolleyes:

Read the first post again.;) Roy.

I have one of these and it sure sounds like something banging on the cover. the only thing under the top cover is the gear pair that engage and disengage the spindle, make sure the front knob is either full engaged or disengaged or the gears could rattle together. watching the video, I can't...

Oh John, you didn't read it properly, it says IOL not OIL. IOL isn't runny like oil:hDe: Roy.

the stuff that lines fireplaces absorbs heat, you want something to reflect heat. perlite or white building brick.

Nice. It reminds me of the lash up I used before I fitted dro's. you gotta do what works. Roy.

Strangely enough I can't see the pictures. I'm using win7 and opera. Roy.

Oh Dear, what a twit:wall::wall: If I had half a brain I would have looked at the date of the OP. I'll go away now.:hDe::hDe: Roy.

I'm using Windows and Opera and I can't see them either:confused: Roy.

Hi Omnimill. The drilling jig was featured in Model Engineers Workshop issue 113. It was a Hemingway kit built by Harold Hall, the then editor. I carved the body from a lump of mild steel and made the rest of it from odd bits. no more pics at the moment, its colder than a witches...

Gee,thanks guys, I didn't think this old thread would be revived after all this time. Roy.

+1 on the tool being the culprit. its like the set that came with my lathe, they are at the bottom of the garden somewhere. Its a pity you didn't post the pic of the tool sooner, it would have saved some time sorting out the problem. I use HSS all the time now, its not rocket science to...

I know that Bogstandard used them for the cylinders on his Paddleduck engine. Roy.

Thats what I intend trying when I ( 1 ) summon up the courage, and (2) when I can be bothered to take the dam' thing apart again. the cross slide and top-slide nuts on my mini lathe have the same arrangement and it seems to work, I say seems because when I adjusted the topslide one it snapped...

On my mill the leadscrew nuts sit in a pocket cast into the base and are retained with a grubscrew so there's no way to get anything up against either side of the nut. One day I'll be brave and cut a slit halfway through the dam' thing and fit a screw to adjust the...

I dont know about yours but the backlash on mine, both axis' , is awful. there's no adjustment on the nut either. I really must think about it one day cos I can get a better finish climb milling but with this amount of movement its decidedly risky.:fan: Roy.

They look the same as the ones I got from Arc-Euro to fit on my x2. they certainly make life a lot easier, whoever thought up the dial marking on these machines needs a serious talking to:rant: Roy,

Its a nice engine.........................but youv'e used those hideous cross head screws all over it, there's a wobble on the flywheel and it's running waaaaay too fast. apart from that it's a nice model. just my two pence worth. Roy.

HI Nice to see you made a start. The bearing part really depends on what you are going to do with the engine when its finished. ( note I said when not if) :) If you are going to test run it the just display it silver steel should work , you'll have to temper it as well or it'll shatter. If...

Hi I see no reason for you not to have a go at this engine. I managed to build it and I class myself as a rank amateur,in fact its only the second engine I have made. see here...http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f14/nemett-15cc-4-stroke-engine-14425/ I might add that I built mine...