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Thank you for the encouragement Chuck. Still not able to start by hand, but it does fire rather quickly using a powerdrill. The first set of rings had a very large end gap upon inspection. (well over 0.030") I may have worn them down by not getting all of the diamond lapping compound out, or...

Thank you so much for the reference to an article and for taking the time to make a dimensioned drawing. Very much appreciated. My engine has been very stubborn to get running as I want it to. I think the blow-by and spitting oil was caused by not flushing the diamond grit paste completely and a...

Tear Down and Inspection The engine seems pretty well broken in now and I thought I would try and make it more dependable when starting. I would really like to be able to start it by hand instead of using a drill, but that may be unrealistic with the strange firing order? Here are some items...

Hi Mike, Thank you for the suggestion to make PCV valves. How does one do that in a small scale? Do you use tiny ball bearings or such? The breather "tubes" that I installed are 1/4-32 thread.

Thank you Ghosty, That makes me feel better about all that advance. I remade the water pump impeller using a stouter 1/4 drill rod shaft and tried again. The pump would work for a brief time and then slip the belt again. Open up the pump casing and there would be small bits of raised aluminum. I...

Thank you Jeff, good advice and I will fix the water pump first and try it again, but I think at least one of the rings is cracked or stuck. I can gauge the amount of blowby using a low pressure air test (recycled refrigerator pump/compressor) on each cylinder through the spark plug port. It...

Thank you very much for sharing that. 🙂🙂🙂 Sure enough I had 1000 ohm resistance when checking across the discarded RCEXL boots. I cut them open with a abrasive wheel and salvaged the two resistors. Unsoldered the spark plug ends of may wires and installed them at the brass split sleeve. It...

Thank you Chuck, The ignition module arrived and I transferred the soldered wiring over to it similar to what I did before. I added an aluminum clamp and grounding block (yellow arrow) to make sure I didn't forget to ground the SS sheathing and burn out another module. The engine likes...

The replacement Rcexl twin fire ignition module is on the slow ship from China making it over to Florida. I was really tempted to go a different way and buy a dual output coil with a TIM-6 CDI box. I'll give this Rcexl another try though. I'm pretty sure I shouldn't have tried sparking it with...

Good News I got the engine running fairly reliably and shut it down because I didn't have the cooling system connected and the ignition was just laying on the benchtop with alligator leads connecting everything. Fabricated an MDF baseplate with a raised area to support the water pump and screen...

You are welcome. I believe I saw it being used somewhere else and thought the same. For 1/4 fittings this holding fixture is 5/8" square and the holes are 5/16 through, and 23/64" for 1/8 deep at three places. The side hole is 5/16" from the end. I used two #8 SHCS to hold it together while...

Plumbing & Gaskets PM Research sure does make some beautiful cast bronze fittings so I purchased the 90 elbow trees to eliminate some of the silicone hose on the cooling circuit. I made an aluminum fixture to hold the elbows and ensure perpendicularity when drilling and tapping. Sealed the...

I did have to remake the spray hood to get the water to trickle down the screening. I switched to aluminum to save weight so I could eliminate the brass tripod supports. The spray hood is made up of 7 parts including the #6-32 SHCS that secures it to the mesh cone. It is assembled using epoxy...

Cooling Pump There is a plan for a centrifugal pump included in Doug Kelley's book. I started the build by drilling the bearing cavity, tapped mounting plate holes and the radius' for the feet. Then centered it in the 4 jaw and machined the shaft bearing profile. I was then able to flip it and...

The fuel tank work continued very well using the plumbers acid flux and 3-1/2% silver solder. Hardest part was the two gauge glass fittings. I would fabricate these parts using solid round bar and thread everything before drilling the internal passages next time. I had to use a 3/16" transfer...

Thank you Ray, I'm building the water pump now so I can try out how well the water will spread across the screening. Might have to modify the upper dome or spray ring. Added a band of brass half round to the tank to simulate the stamped sheet metal look. On the first attempt, I soft soldered...

Thank you Chuck Fuel Tank I would like to try a different kind of fuel tank for this engine. I remember the old steel fuel oil tanks that people had inside their basements up North for heating. Just so happens that the dimensions are available online so I could get the correct aspect ratio for...

Just finished fabricating a small copper screen cooled tank for the Nash engine chronicled on this website elsewhere, but figured I would post a picture in this thread also. build link Made this tank from slitting open a piece of 2" type M copper pipe, annealing and splicing together to get...

Screen Cooler Tank I didn't seem to come across an empty can that matched the dimensions I wanted, so I salvaged a heavily tarnished foot of 2" copper pipe and a coil of 1/8" icemaker line to see what could be done. Slit the copper pipe lengthwise with a hacksaw in the vise, and then heated it...

Thank you Brian, Appreciate the compliment and hope your knees recover quickly Exhaust and Intake manifolds both of these parts are made from brass with the internal passage ways cross drilled and then plugged and silver brazed. I couldn't find any small carburetors similar to what was called...