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The plans were published in Model Engineer magazine. Started 25 January 2013. I think a subscription to Model Engineer will get you access to the archives and back issues but I'm not absolutely sure on that, maybe someone else can confirm that.

I haven't made a "PCV" before, but I think its really just a check valve, for low pressure - lets crankcase pressure out and prevents flow in. In your case the valve lies sideways, so either you need to really limit the lift of the ball to ensure its sucked back onto its seat, or you'll need a...

I am generally willing to post a response to a question or when being asked for advice if its a subject I'm relatively comfortable with. In other cases I've learned to shut up, as some who may be regular contributors are using forums more as a blog, and don't care to listen to advice given...

For a crankshaft of 10mm diameter, I'd look into 1144 "stressproof" here in North America, 1/2" diameter. Cuts really well. It has become my go-to steel for shafting. Typically does not need to be hardened after machining (i.e. machine directly to finished size) and is likely suitable for...

Any reason for Titanium other than maybe you had some or wanted an excuse to machine it (nothing wrong with that - more than half my projects are excuses to do something like that).

4 stroke radials have odd numbers of cylinders to keep the firing equally space - i.e. for a 7 cylinder: 1-3-5-7-2-4-6 back to 1....) An even number of cylinders results in 2 cylinders firing beside each other, introducing an uneven power pulse and vibrations (1-3-5-2-4-6 ->back to 1, 1 and 6...

Excellent work, not sure how I missed your progress previously. For the crankcase oil leakage issue, can you sneak in a one way valve into the breather pipes, making them PCV valves (i.e. let the air out but not back in)? It should help by making the case pressure much lower or even negative...

Will your pushrods clear the heads of the new hold down bolts? Looks like you made the injector already, but I was going to suggest just rotating the hold down pattern 90 degrees and you'd be good to continue.

Nicely done on the dyno. I have way too many projects so this one will be somewhere at the lower end of the list but still interesting all the same. I've been bitten by the diesel engine bug recently and am working on a design (uniflow 2 stroke diesel of about 22cc). I'm not at the burnout...

It depends on you're design goals. From a fabrication simplicity point of view, copper is the winner. Easy formability, easy joining with silver soldered joints. And you could even nickel plate to conceal the copper colour. Biggest downside on copper is it will remain relatively soft and...

100% it can be the cutter. Ideal world yes the cutter is moving perpendicular to the work and should cut a parallel groove. Real world everything is made of rubber and the angle of the tool causes it to deflect as it engages the material. I can't tell you the number of times I've parted off a...

I recently somehow got an itch to design and build a 2 stroke uniflow diesel model so any model size diesel info is appreciated. I see Lloyd is looking into those too. Anyway carry on. Looking great so far.

That is quite the beast you're building. Looking good.

Here it is

I have the full model in a Fusion360 file (non-commercial) if that helps. I didn't draw it (can't remember who did - maybe snagged of the web?) but I'm pretty confident that it is correct where it matters. The file units are inches. If its of use I can see about loading it to the downloads...

Hobby grade rolled ball screws with preloaded ball nuts are very common today. Readily available (China origin) and relatively cheap. Look for DFU1605 for example (D for double nut, 16 for screw major diameter, 05 for 5mm screw pitch). The added friction is not important especially compared to...

I would argue that you'd have a near impossible time trying to build it and set it (calibrate) initially without a ring gauge. After that you can take direct readings based on the taper angle and the thread pitch chosen, within the tolerances of your construction. 45 degrees gets you 1:1 as...

I also forgot to mention you need to iterate a bunch of times either based on what is available or what you can afford, or what can physically fit or all of those. Just cause your calcs say you want it doesn't mean its readily available, or affordable or makes sense hanging off your machine...

Leveraging my expertise from converting one machine and updating another I can offer this advice: Simple method - copy someone else's "working" example of a configuration. 98% chance if it works for them it'll work for you and save lots of time figuring things out. Complicated method: 1. make...

That type of arrangement the set screws are what "preload" the large diameter thread to keep it from loosening off. So you should back the set screws off a bit, tighten the collar (probably by hand if its just retaining a seal - you don't want to crush the seal) and then tighten the set screws...