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Hi I am building a four cyl four cycle boxer type engine. My question is will 1045 steel work for the crank, I generally use 4140 but was given a length of 1045. Thanks for any input you can offer. Terry

Thanks very much for the replies, have ordered a set. Terry

Hi, I have an ER32 MK4 collet chuck and a couple of collets for it to use on my lathe, my mill is R8 if I buy an R8 chuck are the collets interchangeable as long as they are ER32? Thanks Terry

Thank you for your replies, I do have that book on hardening etc. I am making another hob this AM and will skip the tempering part. It is sure nice to be able to ask questions of people in the know and get suggestions that help. Terry

Thank you for your reply, I wondered about tempering the cutter, I will try another one without, would it help to anneal the gear blank first? Terry

Hi, I am trying to cut three small gears, I have in the past made a gear hob which worked very well, however they were brass gears, I am trying to cut a small module 0.7 12 tooth gear in steel. After making the hob, I heated until it lost its magnetism, cooled in spindle oil, put in small oven...

Thanks Gus, I have done worm gears using this method, I would like to use the hob on my mill so would have to adapt it to the mill spindle. Terry

Thanks for the reply Paul, I thought I would ask as I have never used a commercial hob before. Terry

Hi, I have ordered a 0.7 metric gear hob, it has a 12mm inside measurement, I would like to use it on my mill to cut the gears, can anyone tell me the method of mounting the hob so as to put it into the quill (r8) ? I have made hobs before with a stub end to mount into an R8 end mill holder...

Thanks for the link Don, I think I have a handle on it now. A few years ago I made a hob and it worked fine, but the years pass and the brain gets foggy. Terry

Thanks for the reply Paul, will have to look closer. Terry

Hi, I am building a cam for my engine, the lobes are set screwed to the shaft, I drilled and tapped the lobes with a 5-40 tap. A 5-40 bolt screws in fine but the set screws I have do not, appears they are coarser thread. My question is are there different pitches of threads on set screws ? Terry

Thanks to a lot of help from people on here especially the pictures, video etc, I was finally able to produce some useable cam lobes, many thanks for your patience. Terry

Thank you for the help, to Swifty, Cogsy and to Dick for the video. In my post I said the blank was 1/2", in reality it is from a 5/8" bar. Will go at it again in the morning. Terry

:wall:Hi I posted the other day and got lots of help but still cannot produce a cam lobe. I have attached a clip from plans. Here is what I am doing with poor results. First I center the rotary table, then center the cam blank on the table. I then move the x axis left 5.66mm then move the y axis...

Like sand in an hour glass it is slowly sinking in to this fuzzy old brain. I really appreciate all your help. Terry

Thanks again for the help, I tried cutting another lobe, it makes a great shaped cam but the hole for the shaft is away off center, obviously I must be setting the offset wrong, when measuring the offset for the boring bar where do you measure from and to ? Terry

Thanks for the reply Paul, I was confused because the radius shown do not start at the center of the cam, I think however you are right, will give it a try. Terry

Hi, I am attempting to cut cam lobes using the method by Randall Cox. I have the mill, turntable, boring tool etc. and understand the principle. What I don't seem to get is the setting on the boring tool. The write up in the mag says the radius of the cam flank determines the radius you set on...

Thanks for your reply, the diagram on the inside only shows hookup for 110 or 220 volt, however I was able to figure it out using a toggle switch to change motor lead 5 and 6. Terry