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What action do you want this cylinder to have? Extend only, extend with spring return, double acting, single or double rod? What pressure are you considering and what force do you need? Any idea of bore and stroke? lg no neat sig line

https://www.guhring.com/Support/Technical/Tap-Drill-Sizes Above is one of the best tap charts that I have found. If you spend some time wandering around the technical section you can find a lot of good information. lg no neat sig line

What type of collet are you using. If using an R8 style collet then you can only grip shafts that are sized for the collet you are using. R8 collets do not work with over or undersized shafts. Now if you have an ER type collet that has a size RANGE then yes. lg no neat sig line

Maybe this one? lg no neat sig line

Richard Can you better define what your looking for? Stationary steam plants, Locomotive Steam Engines, Ships or river boats, full sized stuff or modeling. Do you want to learn the process, restore engines, make models? Your Steam Engine title covers a lot of varied subjects. lg no neat...

On The machine without the quill you do not rely on the mechanical/electronic feed to get accuracy. You use the hand crank to get the precision you need. At least that is how I do it on my horizontal mill with the universal head. All the feeds on my machine are gear driven and will drive to a...

That was my first mill. I was never that happy with it. I tended to ask to much from it. I'm much happier with a full sized machine. I hope it serves your needs well. lg no neat sig line

Not knowing what you have to work with makes suggestions hard. I don't have a rotary base on the mill vise and have at times just swung the vise around and used one T slot and one or two strap clamps to hold it down. lg no neat sig line

Ok then. I also come from a manufacturing environment and know when down time is calculated in $xx/second that sacrificing a tool bit is a cheap fix if it works. lg no neat sig line

Are you saying to pre-drill with a right handed bit and then use a left handed one? I always start the process with a left handed bit. lg no neat sig line

Looks to me like you want a 50 mm o-ring. 50mm = 1.968" You may also want to work with the durometer of the material to get what you need lg no neat sig line

Ignoring the cored hole; how does the out side of the casting look? If the OD of the flanges are round then you may be able to locate off of the OD and then bore the the cylinder ID concentric from there. Hopefully the cored hole is not offset so far that you cannot get the bore cleaned up...

I learned something today. If you put your cursor on the OP's location and click it, it will bring up maps and you'll find he is in England. lg no neat sig line

Thank you. I'm just south of Salem, just over the hill from the Enchanted Forrest.

In the above picture you can see how I modified the union in the valve linkage. I threaded the rod from the valve and threaded the union to receive it, 10-32. This worked out very well for me to tune the valve position while the engine is running. You have to add a bit of length to each piece...

$20, Let her feel that she paid a fair price. That said, be careful that she doesn't supply you with some bastard material that will consume you and your tooling trying to do the job. lg no neat sig line

Brass moving on brass will gall. That said I doubt that the casting is the same brass that the valve material is. So in a model it will be fine. Steel will also be fine until it rusts. I built the PMR #4 and used 304 SS for the valve. The #4 is a cast iron cylinder. Don't over think this...

I believe that the ability to make a setup that allow you to make a cut on the piece you are working on is what separates the master from the apprentice. Each piece that we make is a bit different from the next so being able to setup and fixture becomes the big variable that we have to figure...

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