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Hi Guys, For copper boilers which are silver soldered/brazed the copper grade most specified and acceptable to the boiler inspectors is: - C106 Copper Phosphorus deoxidised copper is the grade of copper where oxygen is removed by the controlled addition of phosphorus during the melting...

Hi Guys, Sorry if all the math stuff is boring but it must be done. George... I make the thickness required = 0.01406" for 3/8" OD tube @60psi. For pressure 128psi is correct for 0.027" (22swg) wall thickness @ 3/8" OD... so plenty of additional margin to allow for any minor surface...

Hi George, No offence meant by my last post... I thought that was what you were trying to say since you have made quite a few boilers, however, I felt it needed clarification for any members not quite so up to speed with the technical side of boilermaking. I know what you mean about finding...

Hi Guys, KBC, those are very nice boilers you have built there, I assume they are to your own design. Not so I am afraid... the pressure on the outside of the firetubes or centre flu is the same as the pressure on the rest of the boiler... there is NO drop in pressure involved. 60psi is...

Hi Gary, For internal tubes in a firetube boilers you should use Hard Drawn Straight tubes since they are subject to EXTERNAL PRESSURE and the STRESS Calculations for these are only accurate if the tube/s are perfectly round in section, straight and undamaged. You should not use STRAIGHTENED...

:p:eek:... What he fails to say in that video is that his lathe can swing 8ft dia and 100 ft between centres...:rolleyes:.. so what kind of South Bend lathe has he got?;D mmatisoff... I think you need to replace the brass ring you removed, this was almost certainly a thrust spacer.Backlash can...

Steve, Get hold of a copy of 'Workshop Techniques' by Geo. H. Thomas This has a complete section devoted to making divider attachments for use with lathe changewheels etc, which will do exactly what you are trying to achieve. He gives full details on how to cut the necessary wormwheel and...

Hi all, Chrsbrbnk, and anyone else confused by the new UK regulations document: - Here is a brief synopsis giving the important points... For copper boilers the hydro test is always valid for 4 years . For steel boilers the first hydro test is valid for 4 years and thereafter all...

Hi Guys, There has been some major changes to the UK boiler regulations and there is now NO EXCLUSION for boilers of 3 Bar-Litre or under. I attach a copy of the latest UK rules which became effective on 1st January 2013. Unfortunately it now means ALL boilers used in public must now have...

Hi Steve, You will have to wait a long,long time for all but one of those to rust...!!! Apart from the Main engine base ( cast aluminium) and the large round lump ( Flywheel casting..Cast iron) all the others are cast Gunmetal. These early Reeves castings are of very good quality and are...

Hi Guy's I can't think why so many people insist on adding this DHMO additive to their boilers... are they MAD?:confused::eek: http://www.dhmo.org/facts.html Happy Christmas to you all.*beer**beer* SandyC.:hDe:

Hi Guy's Ok... having spent 20 mins trying to log in ( using my old site password) :mad:. I eventually remembered that I had to change it when the site changed servers ( silly old s*d ):wall: so I had to search for my new one which I had written down in a SAFE place... Why is it they are...

Hi Rodders, Not quite that simple I am afraid... You will need a changewheel banjo arm and a set of changewheels to get what you want. There are a couple of good (free) programmes available for calculating the required train, however, you will need to input the necessary info about your...

:) ;D Hi Guy's, Rich, In general, for short or long term storage, I would always EMPTY a copper boiler, preferably whilst it was still hot, and then warm it very gently, with the filler cap OFF, to ensure it was thoroughly dry inside, I would then leave it to stand, unheated, until it cooled...

:D ;) Hi Guy's, Further to my posting of some simplified steam notes in a thread being posted by Rich (‘Firebird’), This being: - ‘A SMALL STEAM ENGINE’, on the ‘WORK IN PROGRESS BOARD’ some additional questions have been raised. In order that Rich's build thread does not get taken too far...

;D :D ;) ;) Hi Nick, Thanks for the compliment; I am pleased that my DRIVEL was of some use to you... :-\ :-\ ::) :big: as well as, hopefully, answering some/most of Rich's original questions. As for taking it all in... well, as you say, it is a complex subject and it can take a lot of time...

:) ;) ;D Jerry, To add a bit more to what Bob an GB have posted... Think more in terms of each individual cylinder... the time the STEAM/AIR valve remains open (% cutoff) should relate directly to the full stroke for the cylinder in question... not a number of degrees of rotation dictated by...

::) :-X :'( :'( OOPS.... forgot to add the attachment. SIlly old **** Try again. SandyC :big: :big: ;D

;D ;D ;) Hi Guy's, Rich, The small changes you have made to your set-up have most certainly made a great difference and you are to be congratulated on such a great piece of work. In an earlier post, you asked about some items and their possible effects so I thought it would be a good time to...

;D ;) Rich, Just to let you know... I have not forgotten you and your questions. I am doing a quite detailed write up for you and the guy's explaining quite a lot of things but I am also trying to keep it in as simple terms as possible,(steam stuff can get quite HEAVY) as a result it is taking...