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I would say you have a perfectly practical form, put a thick coat of paint on it and use it to make a new casting.

If you split your ignition circuit into two you can spark alternately. Divide even further and thats why you see modern practice as coil on plug.

Thanks for that link! I still have photocopies of some of the pages. :thumbup:

Invisible fires are not my idea of fun :/ I can get water mix cutting oil cheap here so that is what I use in a decent sized pump oil can. Plenty of lubricant, just as the teeth enter the part.

Keeping the aluminum from sticking to the teeth is probably the most important part of the process. If you must use wd40, use more than will spray out of a spray can. In other words buy it by the gallon and put it into a large volume squirter type oil can and pump the daylights out of it...

From a Photobucket TOS it may be possible to just link rather than embed the images? Posts wont be as pretty but the information will still be there.

Yes, but slightly backwards. With a clean sheet of paper the grinding wheel, shaft bearings, and center heights depend on the stroke you want to accommodate.

Most of my crankshaft designs so far have been on the smallish side, never bigger than a 1.25" roundstock. I have one last (quickly fading) opportunity to obtain some materials and want to build a crankshaft grinder, and the first dilemma is how big to make it. It would be more practical if it...

Wonderful work.

A good price, and I would never quote Mcmaster as the cheapest around, (oddball things maybe), but its still close to 3x what Kyle got. ;)

Where did you get that price? 12 inches at Mcmaster is $200. The price of the case material, and that darned expensive internal gear, are a couple of reasons I have not begun this build. I can cast the case, but still have not figured out a good home shop method for the internal gear.

That part is not semantics, it takes very little current to maintain a magnetic field created by a larger current. Modern ignitions have done this ever since the demise of the round oil filled coil.

Nothing really contrary in that statement. Once the magnetic field reaches its full strength, the extra current just builds heat, whereas a tiny current can keep the magnetic field from collapsing. The ballast resistor or resistance wire also limits the current inrush as well, increasing the...

Kyle, Build thread is here: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=10465 For pics, your going to have to troll my photobucket. :( http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/lakethstadt/library/old%20default?sort=3&page=1 The Yahoo group is the only place to "officially" get Forrest...

While the good graces of the admin are desirable and an honorable goal, its not everything. I post to share knowledge and experience with other like minded individuals. It may not be often anymore, but if it helps, or sparks the desire to continue on the path of this hobby, its worth it to me still.

Some day I will get around to building this. :) My boxer twin was basically modified edwards cylinders and heads. Dont forget to include the yahoo group.

Looks like a nice piece. I will get my guess in and vintage it circa 1961 in case anyone starts a pool. :D Never seen one before, however, sorry.

Why it works is a cute trick of physics. The sudden inrush of current to a coil builds the magnetic field, the current required to hold this magnetic field is much smaller. The rate of collapse, and strength of, that magnetic field across the secondary winding of the coil determine the effective...

Would it be a bad idea to use double flare fittings like a brake line?

Glad to see this still progressing. Unlike any of my projects :(