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Get a jug of 30 weight Shell Tellus. It's a hydraulic oil, and good for what ails ya! It's my oil of choice for ways as well, and is detergent-free.

The spindle nose itself should have runout below the threshold you can measure. A spindle with two thou of runout has a serious problem. A 3-jaw chuck with two thou of runout, though, is doing pretty good as far as 3-jaw chucks are concerned.

The consensus here seems to be that the author said comment was very confused: http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=340951%253E

You can certainly give it a shot. It's hard to ensure that you don't distort the crankshaft during annealing.

Look into cupola furnaces. Very easy to build for casting iron.

To my recollection, carbide is happiest when the chips come off blue.

Some copper alloys do age harden. Depends what they're made of.

How is your ground?

To my eye, it looks like the chuck is out by about two or three thou. That's totally normal. Remember, eccentricity is *very* visible to the eye when something is rotating. You can see surprisingly small amounts of runout. There are some things that can be done. Only tighten from one hole...

I'd be inclined to use drill rod for the spindle. Straight, dimensionally accurate. You can then thread the end.

And dig around thingiverse.com. They have a huge array of models you can download for free.

Wow, that would take a lot of time. Mothers is pretty fine stuff. Now, the compound you might want to consider is what's called Timesavers. It's designed to break down as you lap, causing the particles to become smaller. You can then start out with it relatively coarse(making the process...

I just remembered something I have to mention. Red heat may be too hot. You'll have to experiment. Above a certain temperature, the steam creates a thin insulating layer. This has the effect of actually slowing down the rate of boiling. You can see this in person. Heat a metal plate, and drip...

That's the thing with the 7x10, it's not a finished lathe - it's more of a kit. Now, there's nothing wrong with that. One just has to be mentally prepared. I know I bought a chinese 9x20 with QC gearbox. It took some work, but I've got it to the point where it does some decent work. What you...

A thought: replace the stainless steel cylinder with a dense copper coil. Rate of heat exchange is dependant upon temperature differential, surface area, and conductivity. Copper is more conductive than stainless. Look up "pancake coils". I'd suggest having a check valve close to the boiler. The...

I know one trick jewellers will use is to make a mould from rubber that can be reused for injecting wax. Basically you make the model, pack around with this rubber. Then vulcanize the rubber in a heated press, and carefully cut the new mould in half.

Yeah, it'll want to ring like crazy. Try making a form tool with a rounded end instead of a square one. It will allow you to enter more gradually, reducing the risk of vibration. Make sure it's very well supported. Try reducing the speed and increasing feed. Since it's an o-ring, a rounded...

Is there a compelling reason why you can't just use 3mm drill rod?

I'll add my vote for a mill. If you can afford about $1500, you can get a pretty decent mill-drill. You can get away with a milling attachment, but the dedicated machine makes life much easier. You can save a lot on tooling by watching eBay. I got a kennametal carbide shell-mill with inserts for...