Search results

Help Support HMEM:

  1. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    This didn't go quite as I had planned, but it was very close. I was having trouble getting the rim centered, so I made up a disc with a reamed 1/2" center hole and an outer diameter that was a precision fit into the flywheel outer rim. I put a piece of cold rolled 1/2" diameter in the tailstock...
  2. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    teeleeves--That works if the "blades" are strong enough not to deflect when you try to machine the tips. These blades, when attached to the hubs, will stick out 2" unsupported. I don't think they would machine cleanly because they are only 1" x 1/8" material and will deflect rather than be...
  3. B

    Yet Another Webster Begins

    Bob--If the bore for the wrist pin isn't exactly 90 degrees to the milled slot in the piston, the piston will rotate in the bore a small amount as it travels from top to bottom. Probably a bit of this "twist" is tolerable, but the closer it can be kept to 90 degrees, the better it will be.
  4. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    In my effort to "avoid the virus" I'm trying to not to go out anywhere to buy more material. I had one big cube of aluminum 3" square, so today I set it up in my lathes 4 jaw and turned three diameters on it, all in one set-up. One diameter is a "precision fit" into the faceplate mounting hole...
  5. B

    Werowance attempts Upshur Vertical Single

    The cam only needs to be as wide as the tappet. However, if you are attaching the cam to the shaft with a set screw, then your cam will need a round hub about 1/4" long on one side to accept the set screws.
  6. B

    Yet Another Webster Begins

    I have a rotary table with a chuck attached to it. For this operation on pistons, I set the chuck and rotary table so the rotating axis is vertical, and hold the piston in the chuck. I make certain that one jaw of the chuck is exacly on the right hand side, and put a spacer bar of 1/4" scrap...
  7. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    I guess we'll find out.
  8. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    Thanks John--I have experienced the "magnet thing" with my MIG welder. I have a couple of large "corner magnets" here, intended for making corners in fabricated plate-work. They work okay for laying in tack welds, but they do distort the arc if you try to do a continuous bead with the magnets in...
  9. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    -I don't think I will use any continuous welds. This flywheel is self contained and the radial forces will all concentrate on the outer rim. Too much weld will distort things. For now I am considering a weld on each side of the blades where they contact the hub, and a weld on each side where the...
  10. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    And that is about as far as I'm going to take things today. Tomorrow I will work on getting things all set up on my faceplate.
  11. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    That worked out very well. A lot of moaning and groaning from the lathe, occasional shots of cutting oil, and a very slow advance. I left about 1/16" wall which I will cut with my bandsaw.
  12. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    John-read post 167 carefully.
  13. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    This would let me mount the hub on the turned center spigot, and the outer rim and hub would be perfectly concentric. Then I can fit the "blades" into place and get a decent tack on each one. This method allows me to do any welding or tacking with the faceplate dismounted from the lathe completely.
  14. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    dsage---thank you for the suggestion. Okay---I'm having an idea. If I mount my faceplate on the lathe, then I can use 1/2" hex bolts thru the existing slots and use a dial indicator to center the outer rim perfectly on the faceplate.---Then dismount the faceplate from the lathe, and turn a...
  15. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    I'm thinking forward to the next steps in this flywheel fabrication exercise. In a perfect world, I can hold the outside rim (6" tube parted off to 3/4" wide) in my lathe 3 jaw chuck. I can slide the hub (with slots) over a piece of 1/2" cold rolled steel and hold it in my tailstock chuck. This...
  16. B

    Keep Logged in

    I may have gone completely brain dead. I followed all the instructions on how to get to chrome/settings/privacy/site settings/view permissions and data stored across sites, found Home Model Engine Machinist, deleted the cookies. The site still requires that I log in every time I use the...
  17. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    This morning I put on my mask ,Purelled my hands, and drove to my metal suppliers who had set my material outside their door. Collected my material, Purelled my hands again, wiped down my trucks steering wheel with antiseptic wipes, and drove home again. Got home, washed my hands for 30 seconds...
  18. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    Werowance--There won't be any slots in the outer rim. The blades fit flush to the inside of the rim and are tig welded.
  19. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    And that, my friends, is slicker than whale poop!! Here you see one of the finished hubs by itself, and with a nice blade array using a bunch of my parallels. I just wish I had a 1/8" wide slitting sawblade. This was made using a 1/16" saw blade, but I had to go around once to make the slots...
  20. B

    Thumper--a 1 3/8" bore i.c. engine

    Pulling the air in a single direction.
Group Builder
Top