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    Hi from downunder

    Hi, I have a Schaublin 102 VM lathe, with the massive leadscrew central underneath the bed. This is nice but makes a thread chasing dial impossible. I use several options in threadcutting 1) very low speed. Regular speed range is 80 - 2000 rpm, but with the frequency regulator on this can be...
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    Problems with Steel

    Two comments 1) for longer holes in tougher material like stainless I prefer 6 facet drills. You basically grind additional facets on the 'shoulder' at the outer diameter of the cutting edge, thereby relieving the forces on the hardest working part of the drill 2) for aluminium I always...
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    Problems with Steel

    Of course I concur with all common sense comments mentioned above. However sometimes you have no choice in the material you have to drill and it won't work with HSS. What oftentimes helps is to take a concrete drill, which has a carbide tip. The smallest size I can get is 3 mm (about 1/8th)...
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    Jaws for Buck chuck

    You may be able to make do with soft jaws from Aluminium which you bolt onto the regular jaws. I use them mostly for discs but it should be quite possible to use them for cylindrical parts too. As long as you preload the soft jaws when machining them at the right diameter. For me the right...
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    Select 816 B Lathe Acquired

    The item next to the milling attachment looks like an item we made at our horological workshop as part of a copying attachment. We load the item with springs and it pushes the slide (spindle removed) to the sheet-metal form at the back of the slide. However I do not see the other elements of...
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    Faceplate Clamps

    Personally I try to avoid single point cutting bigger bores on my lathe (60 year old Schaublin 102 VM). I prefer mounting the piece on a turntable on my mill (25 year old Aciera F3) and milling it out. Depending on the tools you can get amazing precision up to plus minus 0,02 mm in this way.
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    bevel/vernier protractor use

    Setting the 2 degree angle to make a Thornton type cycloidal wheelcutter. The sinus-protactor is set between a nice flat and square disc on the headstock and the toolpost. The lathe is a Schaublin 102 VM.
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    bevel/vernier protractor use

    You can still find them in the wild in Germany - search for' Sinus-Winkelmesser'.
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    bevel/vernier protractor use

    While you are at it you can also opt for a very precise sinus-protactor. It works with gauge blocks and their precision.
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    Threading a long rod and keeping it straight.

    In my experience some finer and longer die-cut threads wil not follow a nice straight path, even if cut with a die held in a tailstockholder. Too many elements can be slighty amiss adding up to scrap. So I fully agree with singlepoint cutting, if possible at all supported with a running support...
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    Cam Calculations SOLVED! (But is there an easier way??)

    Many moons ago I learned to design cams to drive production processes. What I remember is probably not really useful in the home manufacturing shed, but here it is: For a smooth running mechanism you do not only want to get smooth lift of the cam (travel) but also a gentle change in speed...
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    Build my own milling machine

    For whatever its worth, there is a distinct negative about a milling attachment to a lathe. You bang your head against it. After banging my head for three years I sold it to somebody who was really interested in a multipurpose machine. I never heard from him again.
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    Another Lathe Selection Thread

    Most models can be built with a piston dia of 25 mm/ 1", what even a TAIG or like will handle. But there is no real alternative to flipping thru models on internet, roadshows or musea, decide what you like and what you are going to build (may not be the same) and size your machinetools...
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    Another Lathe Selection Thread

    My suggestion is to buy anything that allows the biggest precision dimensions e.g. cylinders you have in mind, and buy a TAIG or similar for the small stuff where you need revs for the cutting speed. For the bigger stuff you may find that precision is less of an issue e.g with flywheels...
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    Home-made collet chuck and collets - some Q's

    It is my understanding that in the 1960's potential apprentices for the Dutch Instrumentmakers School in Leiden had first to hold a small blank steel testplate. If after a week the testplate did not show a fingerprint the apprentice was deemed free of rusty fingers and fit for the school.
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    Home-made collet chuck and collets - some Q's

    Micrometer readings are indeed almost always preferable to caliper readings for me. However, bitten by bitter experience, I now always first take a caliper reading to decide for instance whether the micrometer reads 20,22 mm or 20,72 mm.
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    Mitutoyo or Starrett?

    On the topic of precision, my experience as a newcomer to the trade is quite limited. Therefore I decided to machine every dimension as if it is a close tolerance in order to grow my skills for when it really counts.
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    Home-made collet chuck and collets - some Q's

    Just a small comment on the use of silversteel: we do not use it any longer in our local horology club. We found the Swiss made ETG100 steel superior in ease of cutting and quality of finish. It can be hardened the same way and hardness as silversteel. We use it for shafts, pinions and...
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    starting 100% completely from scratch! what would be the best first few moves?

    Hi G, Great intentions! It reminds me that Harrison was a woodworking craftsman before he designed his famous Seaclock out of the blue. I'm a member of a local Dutch Horological Group. We have our own workshop with various machinetools. Members have their own personal toolkit. Our advice on...
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    Precision cross feed setting

    I agree with step 1 of plan B of Cogsy - face a solid disc with the precision your cross slide affords. As step 2 I use myself a simple triangulation.First I set the compound at 45 degrees using a sine bar. Second I move the topslide over at say 100 mm. An indicator on the topslide at a right...