Gaskets on Steam Engine Heads?

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JimN

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Almost every plan I have seen on small steam engine's they use paper gaskets. I am just curious why we can't use High Temp Silicone such as Nuflex 302, it withstands temp up to 500 degrees, its what is used for many new car engines instead of gaskets.

Even my Hot Rod engine the exhaust manifold, intake, water pump, oil pump, pan where all put on with the above.

Just curious why its never mentioned in regards to our small steam engines.

JimN
 
I use red (hi-temp) silicone gasket quite a bit. I used it on the "Red Deere" I just finished to seal the valve body's to the cyl head, and to seal the head to the cyl block.

Been using Pro-Seal brand from Harbor Freight, about $2 a tube.It peels away very easy upon dis-assembly.

I also use paper and teflon gaskets for cosmetic effect when a little visual detail is called for.

Believe it or not, but most of the lathe turned surfaces like cyl head to cylinder won't need any thing to make a air tight seal :eek:

A paper gasket between parts that will be apart often, is where the paper or teflon gasket will be beneficial. It's also "authentic" for that "period" detail that many enjoy.

-MB
 
I tried some silicone on the steam joints for my little steam engine and it worked ok, but had a little trouble-- If I spread it thin enough to not ooze out where I didn't want it, it might not be thick enough to seal. Not a problem in some places and it could be figured out, but a piece of oiled paper stayed put and worked well enough to seal on those other joints.
 
JimN, I don't see any specific reason why it could NOT be used, in fact a lot of the newer compounds could be very beneficial to steam engineering.

Many, in fact, I feel Most, of the plans for engines available for build pre-dates new sealing compound technologies, so the plans cannot call for them.

On the other hand, many of these newer compounds are either fairly expensive, or unobtainable in small quantities, and have "expiry dates". For model engineering these factors do not "mix" very well. Some of us cannot buy it, and even if we can, buying a bottle/tube to use only a couple of drops and let the rest go to waste is (in my opinion) a , well, a waste.

So, for model engineers intentionally building "true-to-life" models, sticking to the original materials is a big concern, but for me (and most likely other people) just "playing" around, most anything will do if I can get my hands on it, and experimentation with different materials could prove invaluable, revealing and educational.

From my limited experience though, the old timers knew best ;)

Just my US$0.003 ;)
Regards, Arnold

 
I have made a gasket from a cardboard milk container for repairing an espresso machine several years ago. Still working fine.


Phil
 
I know of some people that use silicon with good results, but I've never had much luck with it. Think I'll stick to me oiled, 90gsm paper ones, with the Turbocad generated outlines.
 
The use of liquid gaskets is perfectly OK for some places, but not others.

I did a model steam engine rebuild not too long ago, and it seems that the liquid gasket had caused a fair amount of damage inside the engine, where it could not be seen.

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1054.0

If you are going to be using it, stay with the softer non hardening variety (if I need to use gasket goo, I stick with Hylomar jointing compound, if you are careful it can be resealed again after disassembly), and make sure it doesn't get pushed inside the engine.

I tend to use non etched PTFE sheet now for most things, it works well on both steam and ic engines, even head gaskets, and is very easy to work with.


Blogs
 
If one wanted to remain true to time honored tradition and use only materials available "back in the day". What would you recommend be used for the gasket material. One common material that was used; asbestos, is simply not available or safe to use. Of the materials left, what would be most correct. Thin copper or lead sheet or shellaced pressed-paper type gaskets? I would think the copper or lead would make the most durable gasket, but galvanic corrison might make paper a good option.

Kermit
 
I've used paper money. If the surfaces are quite small a dollar will go a long way.
 
We have used silicone instead of gaskets at work. They do the job but are a real pain in the A$$ to clean up if you have to take it apart again.
 
Well I think most new silicone will not do any damage to brass or aluminum such as we use in these small engines. Its the only thing recommended for the new aluminum head engines we have now days. Most damage we see on those is from not changing out antifreeze at least every two years.

The other thing I see is people using way to much of it, remember if that paper thick gasket will do the job, then the silicone should not be any thicker than the paper. So in affect you should barely be able to see the silicone on the part before assembly.
 
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