MT#1 to JT#33

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90LX_Notch

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I just completed a much needed project. My Craftsman / Atlas 618 didn't come with a drill chuck when I bought it. Luckily I had a 1/4" drill chuck on a MT #1 shank that had been my great grandfather's. Unfortunately, at some point in it's long history it must have been in a crash because the shank is bent. I usually could get around the bend by clocking it, but this became very annoying. I have a small Delta 8" drill press that I don't use much with a 1/2" JT #33 chuck on it. So I decided to try my hand and making an arbor.


First - I found a piece of scrap 5/8 (JT #33 Large Dia. is 0.624) bar stock that looked long enough.
I faced and center drilled both ends and it wound up being 3.289 in length.
(I didn't expect to get it right the first time so I just faced the bar and wound up with length.)

Second - I put together a simple spread sheet to calculate the Setover. (Attachment #1)

Third - I set up my indicator and moved the tailstock over 0.1045. (Attachments #2 & #3)

Fourth - I marked off 1.000 and placed the bar in between centers and began my cuts. (Attachment #4)

This all I can attach here so I will continue in a reply box.







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Fifth- Once the JT33 was done I calculated the Setover for the MT#1. It called for .082 but since I was already .1045 I moved it .0224 back towards center.

Sixth - I marked off the 2.125 for the length of the taper and placed the part in between centers and began my cuts. (Attachment 1 of this reply box)

Seventh -After completing the cuts I discovered that I needed additional length on the MT#1. This is where turning between centers is nice. I just put it back in and cut an additional .125 to the length.

Attachment 2 is the completed arbor in between a MT#1 Center and my 1/4" drill chuck.

Attachment #3 is the arbor mounted in the lathe with my 1/2" drill chuck.

Notes from this project.
This was not at all as hard to do as I thought it was going to be. I really figured that I would be making it over several times. Turning in between centers is great. Just take it out and place it back in and your good to go. It makes checking dims. and oiling the centers easy.





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Thanks for this post. I've done very little turning between centers before recently.

After reading this, I decided to try my own much needed arbor for a drill chuck I recently acquired with a straight shank. The chuck is JT#3 and my machine is MT#3.

I started out by calculating the rough tailstock offset for each end, then taking a cut that's at least 1" long. Then I ran a DI along this surface on the back side, while using a set of calipers (no DRO) to measure 1" of movement - thus giving me the measured taper per inch. Then I made some fine adjustments. I found that I could very accurately set the proper taper (obtained from machinery's handbook) by repeating this procedure a few times.

I, too, figured this would be a rather difficult thing to do. But with a bit of patience and care, it turned out to be rather simple and works great!

-Sparky
 
Sparky,

I am glad to hear that this post was of use to you. I like your fine tuning method fot the taper.

Bob
 
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