Another Edwards 5 Radial

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Made up the mounting brackets for the gas tank. After I had it installed I wondered if it is big enough. Will just have to see how it works out and not a big job if I need to make a bigger one.
IMG_1902.JPG

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Thanks I just wondered as I have used JB Weld on mine. Holds up well too although probably takes longer to set up than your epoxy.
Ron
 
It is but it is metal filled not just clear epoxy and is tolerant of moderate heat. Navy vet told me they repaired a crack on their ship engines exhaust manifold and it last long after they returned to port.
Ron
 
My parts came in so on to the intake runners.

I thought I had ordered Tygon gas line for the runners but that isn't what I got. (my mistake)
This tubing won't hold up for very long but maybe long enough to see if the engine will run.
IMG_1886.JPG


I have reordered the Tygon line and some proper clamps for future use.
IMG_1890.JPG

And I added a throttle.
IMG_1903.JPG


Test run is coming up soon.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Video of the first run of my radial engine.

The electric motor is used to spin the crank shaft for starting before the prop is installed.
The engine is actually running on 4 cylinders in the video as one cylinder has a exhaust valve problem that needs to be sorted out.



Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Were you able to determine from this run if the fuel tank you built will be big enough?
Nice engine.
Nice tank.
Nice run - even if it was only running on 4 out of 5.

If it's a DC motor that you use for starting, could you use the motor as a generator to put a load on the engine when you get it running properly?

Don
 
Don I was too busy with the engine to notice but I think it may be about right.

I want to thank everyone who commented and left likes on this build. It does make a difference.

The engine is firing on all 5 cylinders now just some trash in the valves of head number 3. I think I may have a vacuum leak in one or several of the intake runners so the Tygon tubing will be here tomorrow and I will replace all of the runners.
I still need to make the prop peg/key to secure the prop and spinner to the crank. I don't want it to unscrew when by starting it via the spinner.

Still some work to do and then a nice longer video with the prop.

Thanks for looking

Ray
 
I have been concerned for some time that when I installed the prop and tried to start the engine that the prop would unscrew itself from the crankshaft. I came up with this solution to drill a blind hole in the magnet ring that matches the prop and the spinner and insert a steel pin to lock all three together. The magnet ring is keyed to the shaft so the torque on the spinner is transferred directly to the crank shaft via the pin.
IMG_1907.JPG

The rest of the parts.
IMG_1910.JPG

My good friend Chris offered to loan me his flexible plastic starting cup to spin the prop over. I made a housing for the cup that would also fit in my battery drill.
IMG_1911.JPG

IMG_1912.JPG



This is the moment I have been working for.



I will be doing some more tuning on the engine in the coming days but I proclaim this build
COMPLETE

Thanks again to everyone
Ray
 
I'm not quite understanding what the pin through the prop & washer plate will do if the starter unscrews the right hand thread nut off. I guess the prop wont wont free spin but could it windmill windmill forward unrestrained? Can you elaborate? I think I have the similar issue on my O5 radial. The drive washer has a tapered split cone. The prop bolts tap into that.

Edwards
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O5
1685830537120.png
 
On my engine the magnet ring is keyed to the crankshaft and the steel pin drives the prop and extends into the spinner. The screw that holds the spinner on will not see any loosening force when starting because it is transfered to the crankshaft via the steel pin to the magnet ring. The threads that are on the end of the crankshaft are not used for anything and may be causing some confusion. I originally thought the threads would be used to hold everything together but then when the stack up of parts proved them useless I center taped the crankshaft for the spinner.
I hope I have explained it clearly.
None of this will apply to your engine with the taper lock.
I can see where there may be some concern in your situation.


Ray
 
I have been concerned for some time that when I installed the prop and tried to start the engine that the prop would unscrew itself from the crankshaft. I came up with this solution to drill a blind hole in the magnet ring that matches the prop and the spinner and insert a steel pin to lock all three together. The magnet ring is keyed to the shaft so the torque on the spinner is transferred directly to the crank shaft via the pin.
View attachment 147800

The rest of the parts.
View attachment 147801

My good friend Chris offered to loan me his flexible plastic starting cup to spin the prop over. I made a housing for the cup that would also fit in my battery drill.
View attachment 147802

View attachment 147803



This is the moment I have been working for.



I will be doing some more tuning on the engine in the coming days but I proclaim this build
COMPLETE

Thanks again to everyone
Ray

Well done sir!!!🤩

Ron
 

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