Ohrndorf 5 Cylinder Radial

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While still set up in threading mode, I also made a solid port plug for sanity testing the actual valves. It’s not a definitive test but I figured if the valve stem is dry (no oil) air might find a way up the annulus & tell me if I had a problem. I installed an O-ring behind the plug to seal, then drew vacuum up the stem annulus. The valves passed at this stage. Later at some point I installed a vacuum line nipple on the plug, blocked off the top of the valve to test the valve seal more directly but not sure I took pictures.
 

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I’ll describe the rocker subassembly next. Probably a familiar theme by now, modifications to some parts require changes to other parts. At this stage when examining more complex assemblies in CAD I kind of adopted a new habit. If something caught by attention, or didn’t look right, or needed later examination in context of another part or a motion, I immediately take a screen grab right then while it’s staring at me, rather than trust my memory or doodle a sketch. I now use this method more often finding it quicker & more reliable. I’m left with a number of snapshot/notes which become the To-Do list for another day. Sometimes a good thing happens where a bunch of seemingly unrelated issues can be resolved simultaneously with one single modification. Hopefully without too much boring detail, I’ll show such images & then onto the end result.

The rocker box is mounted to the angled facet surface of the head with an M3 screw. The inboard base hole straddles the valve with a locating ring boss on the underside. The two vertical members either side in the middle contain the rocker shaft & rocker arm within and snugly fit the inside of rocker covers to laterally retain them in position. The outboard hole in the base faces forward & accommodates the pushrod tube. The result is fully enclosed pushrods and rocker mechanism. The holes for pushrod tubes showed some pesky dimensions on the plans. Drill centers with asymmetrical offset distances & drill angles projected in 2 planes. The angled hole axis make sense of course because the pushrods come through the bottom of the rocker box originating from different positions on the nose case. The intake & exhaust lifters are positioned over their respective cam plates, which are orientated in fore & aft to one another. A longwinded way of saying 2 different rocker boxes are required, one for intake & one for exhaust dictated by these different pushrod holes.

It may not be apparent but the pushrod action is actually slightly 3D, not linear, which is why they are ball ended. The bottom end mates the cam lifters which operate linearly. The top end mates with the rocker arm adjusters rotating through a different plane. The resultant 3D motion has a wider envelope on the top. The point of all this is to say that these motions need to be accommodated without interference of the pushrod within its tube & wide tubes don’t look pretty.

Because of these angles, the pushrod tubes are of slightly different length and need to be mitered differently on either end. On the bottom it mates the lifter bushing. The plans called for as a conical shape bushing to kind of contain the tube at a 3D angle which I initially thought this was a good idea. But I wasn’t particularly fond of how the tubes were retained upstairs in the rocker box. Plans suggested a teeny set screw laterally through the base into a key hole in the (very thin walled) tube. Then there was the issue of wear & tear, engine vibration acting on these small contact areas, oil seepage etc. I knew I would have to deal with these issues eventually but hopefully could defer to when the engine was assembled to this level & things became clearer. I decided to proceed making them, for now omitting the holes. If push came to shove, I would omit the tubes & run open pushrods. But then why have rocker covers with naked pushrods, they kind of go hand in hand. Hey, maybe that’s why many model radials skip this stuff! I’ll return to tubes & lifter bushings later in the story.
 

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The rocker boxes were made from 6061 but I probably should have used 2024 because they are kind of dainty parts with lots of holes & loads to support. Five cylinders times two rockers plus spares, call it dozen. One nice thing about a mini production run is the setup time gets spread to many parts. Hopefully the machining pictures are self-explanatory.

Stock is sized and most of holes drilled. The corners are milled with a round-over EM.
 

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The vertical members which hold the rocker shaft are made by band sawing excess material, then milling to final dimension. One vertical gets a tapped hole for a set screw. Partly to prevent the rocker shaft from rotating. Partly as insurance if I decided to omit the rocker covers because the original design presumed the shafts would be captured by them.
 

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This shows the rings which get glued into the base with Loctite. They mate into the matching counterbore valve hole in the head so the whole box is retained with a single screw.
 

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Here are the fixtures that were ultimately used to drill the pushrod holes through base of rocker box at their correct 3D angle, position & trajectory. One fixture for inlet, a different one for exhaust. I translated the angles in front & side view, then located 3mm hole locations for dowel pins which rest on the vise jaws. From there it was a matter of referencing off of a specific edge & making the hole. Hopefully the picture sequence illustrates this.

Making the fixture.
 

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Drilling the pushrod tube hole.
 

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Testing fit & orientation. I forgot to mention I used K&S aluminum tubing.
 

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I knew I would drill & ream the rocker arms all the same (5mm) diameter, so it was a matter of making the rocker shaft OD the proper sliding fit. The shafts (axles?) are made from O1 tool steel. If I didn’t have to mill the flat, I probably could have used a dowel pins & saved some work.

O1 stock arrives as ground finish ~0.001” oversize. But the issue I have found is that it’s often actually a bit elliptical in section, not circular. You can verify this my taking measurements at right angles on the same portion of shaft & can explains why the fit can be elusive. Correcting this took some trial & error on my part.

This shows an alternate technique of reducing/correcting stock diameter to target size & finish, which is a bit faster than slurry/paste lapping. It’s quite controlled & less messy. In about 15 minutes I made a finished stick of stock within a tenth of target dimension & desired finish from which all the shafts were cut. I got the idea by realizing the thickness of wet/dry papers in this 600-1200# finishing range is actually quite consistent across the sheet & even among different papers. Mine average 0.0075", same brand. So, I made a split lapping block which incorporates this paper thickness factored in the hole size as an annular allowance so that when the block is squeezed over the stock with the paper clam-shelling the stock as shown, it bottoms out very near the target diameter.

I milled the lap block from aluminum, then cut in half to yield 2 identical pieces. Clamp together face to face in the vise & drill the oversize hole with closest number drill. Then separate the halves, position both in vise & simultaneously mill off the face allowance from both.

You can spin the stock in the lathe while lapping or just grip it in an electric hand drill. The benefit is the 'tool' never changes shape or wears like lapping paste is employed. Once the wet/dry paper wears, just replace with a fresh piece. Work to progressive finer grit like normal. What’s interesting is you can actually feel a bit of vibration initially which is the irregular, slightly elliptical section. And then it smoothens out as it becomes more circular. Like lapping, it’s not an expedient way of removing too much stock.

Here is the basic design.
 

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Lapping the stock.
 

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Very nice build Andrew, coming along well! I also purchased his plans when they came out, it's on the prospect list. I didn't do a thorough comparison, but there appears quite a bit of design crossover to his 'round' engines. I would love to see your build pics/post one day. Thanks for sharing.
 
BA49217B-1AAD-444E-BD59-0AF3AE075275_1_105_c.jpeg

hi i will post some pics
hi
 

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I milled the lap block from aluminum, then cut in half to yield 2 identical pieces. Clamp together face to face in the vise & drill the oversize hole with closest number drill. Then separate the halves, position both in vise & simultaneously mill off the face allowance from both.

You can spin the stock in the lathe while lapping or just grip it in an electric hand drill. The benefit is the 'tool' never changes shape or wears like lapping paste is employed. Once the wet/dry paper wears, just replace with a fresh piece. Work to progressive finer grit like normal. What’s interesting is you can actually feel a bit of vibration initially which is the irregular, slightly elliptical section. And then it smoothens out as it becomes more circular. Like lapping, it’s not an expedient way of removing too much stock.
Awesome!, this is going into my set of machining tricks !!!
what I might try it on first though is crank pins to polish out
the machining marks, always tricky to get in the small space
 
I've wondered for some time if it might be possible to make a kind of a cross between a glow-plug and a spark ignition. It should be possible to turn on the glow plug during the compression/power stroke and turn it off the rest of the time. That way you'd only have the load on the battery for one glow-plug at a time, not all of them. Your battery could be a lot smaller and your plug driver would only have to carry a fraction of the load. At least compared to keeping all the plugs hot all the time it would be a fraction of the load.

I think it would be possible to either run a mechanical points/distributor configuration, or an electronic distributor-less configuration that would just require a crankshaft position sensor.

Don
The nature of Glow Plugs is that they stay hot once the engine is running because of a reaction between the nichrome with and the methenol fuel. Might need some power at idle, depends on how much they cool between firings. Some engines run a little rich at idle, and they might need a little power to keep the glow plugs warm.
 
My model airplane engine use to quit at a slow idle, and I liked a slow idle since it made landing easier.

I connected a battery to the glowplug, and I think a servo/switch, and then the engine would idle perfectly even at a very low rpm.

.
 
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