NYLON MILLING MACHINE GEARS

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That is why many have rigged up a drive using a timing belt and sprocket. I never used high speed as it was always too fast for anything I have wanted to do. The sprocket gets mounted on the top of the spindle and the belt has lasted for years now.
 
That is why many have rigged up a drive using a timing belt and sprocket. I never used high speed as it was always too fast for anything I have wanted to do. The sprocket gets mounted on the top of the spindle and the belt has lasted for years now.
Please refer to the below material list for toothed pulleys and hardware that was used to convert my G0704 mill about 2 years ago. I was stripping the gears also. There is a compromise because I lost some top end speed, to gain low end rpm. I believe there is some improvement in surface finish, and it's definitely quieter. I've taken up to 0.050" DOC in mild steel with 9/16" endmill and not sheared the M3 bolts (PN 206-2) that hold the small pulley onto the spindle. I have also "stalled" the motor (3 or more times) without adverse effects. The quill remains functional.

It's not a bolt on kit. Had to fabricate "side rails", an adjustable "motor plate", bore and key the pulleys, make a speed pickup mount, etc. but I'm happy with it. No one seems to sell a low RPM solution. All high RPM kits for CNC that I could find.

The green highlighted fasteners act as the fail mechanism, and the red highlighted parts get replaced. The PN#212 are the gears that kept failing on my setup.

Minimill Belt conversion.png
Exploded view.png
 
here's how it looks installed, with the stock motor cover removed. The cover needs to be raised about 1/2" so the belts are aligned. I made a thin spacer to cover the gap.
belt1.jpg
 

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