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Thanks Steve, you are right!
My mistake, did not pay attention when drawing on the CAD.
I will make another Timing Cover. I think shortening the fan blades will affect the air flow on the radiator jeopardizing the cooling of the engine.

TKS,
Edi
 
or more

DSCN2028s.jpg~original
 
Earlier picture showed sleeve being honed out of block. I would do after shrink fit. It you match sleeve and piston home lap to a couple tenths you will not need rings. Mine has been running since 2008 with out rings
 
Hi!
Bob, thanks for the tip. I will try that on the next project.

A very nice fan on your Demon Steve. It must push a great amount of air thru the radiator.

Michael, did you make the same mistake as did on the timing cover? Thanks for the recommendation.

I decided to make another Timing Cover. Already prepared the material.

Edi
 
Hi!
Bob, thanks for the tip. I will try that on the next project.

A very nice fan on your Demon Steve. It must push a great amount of air thru the radiator.

Michael, did you make the same mistake as did on the timing cover? Thanks for the recommendation.

I decided to make another Timing Cover. Already prepared the material.

Edi

No, I just made the fan to big, it was one left over from the silver bullet, but it gave me the same problem, so I made a 5 blade fan with a smaller diameter
 
Hi!
The new Timing Cover is finished.

The one on the left is the correct one. I will sand blast to give it a cast appearance and eliminate the marks of the tool. I’m thinking to do the same on the Block and Heads.
20190711_203803.jpg



Clearly, you can see the difference on the position of the hub (5mm). Lack of attention when drawing on the CAD (Fusion 360
20190711_211747.jpg


Edi
 

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Hi to all!
Need help:(
I could not find information on the plans how to time the camshaft with the crankshaft. I tried to do it on my way with my limited knowledge but it did not work.
Could someone help giving me some hints/tips on how to time the camshaft?

Thanks,
Edi
 
Hello to all!

Bad news.

The little beast refuses to start. It just showed some puffs and nothing else.

I checked the camshaft timing several times and showed to be correct. I also checked and rechecked the position of the rotor on the distributor. Nothing wrong here.

Reading the tips from Bob Shores he states that low compression causes difficult to start.

I did the test filling the vacuum on the tip of the finger when the piston is moving down (Bob’s tip) and did not like what I found.


I totally dismantled the engine and decided to re-lap the liners per Bob's method as well as making new pistons and rings. I will leave the pistons a little tighter then the plans (DWG calls for 0.001 to 0.0015 clearance Steve version) Bob says “snug” fit (but uses cast iron on the piston), I am using aluminum.

As a prevention action, I will also re-lap the valves. I could not find anything else wrong.


Then cross the fingers.


Today I hope to finish the new pistons. Liners are already re-lappad.


Tks,


Edi
 
Hi Steve!
I'm using a battery driller machine. I think it spins little over 2500 rpm.

As planned I was able to finish the Pistons.

Does someone have any trick or tip for installing the rings on the pistons without breaking too many nor scratching the surface of the pistons?

Tomorrow I will touch the cylinder heads re-lapping the valves on its seats.

Tks,
Edi
 
Hi Edi,
Did you leak-test your valves before assembly? To do so you may need to make a test cover, see my thread on the Edwards radial 5. Also, did you check your piston rings on roundness? Place them in the liner , there should be no light between the ring and the cylinder surface.

Jos
 

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