3X Sparkplug 4X Size

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Just the one picture today. I got the fake threads cut today. 3.500-6tpi is a big thread and at this point I didn't want to make any mistakes so the camera was the last thing on my mind. Only the second time cutting single point threads for me so I was shi!!ing bricks the whole time.

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Progress!!


Managed to get the hex's cut on the base. Got my mandrels installed and the base mounted into the mill.




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I machined two flats on the diameter and measured the distance. Did a little math and set my DRO to the correct height.

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All 6 flats were machined leaving .025 left for further machining.

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The same thing was done for the smaller hex.


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Then a HSS end mill was loaded and the last .025 was removed leaving a much nicer finish than the little shell cutter.

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I knurled the nut today. It was done in an indexer with a 45 degree end mill. Writing the Gcode would have been a giant task so I wrote a wizard in Mach3 so I just need to input some data and the wizard spits out the code for me. If I dont like the angles or number of cuts around the diameter I just need to change that dataand the new code is done in about a second.

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Quick update:

Using a 5/8 end mill a slot was cut all the way thru to center creating a raceway for wiring. The piece was then mounted in the cnc mill to complete the pocket.



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Holes were spotted and drilled and the pocket was hogged out to clear the way for the control panel.

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I purchased some blank engraving plates. I tried the tape and super glue trick and it worked great. The corian was milled to create a nice flat surface. The corian was cleaned free of any lube or shavings. The tape is then appyied to the corian base. The engraving plate was also cleaned free of any oils or debris and tape was applied to the back side of that. Super glue was then applied to the back of the tape on the plate and stuck down to the tape on the corian. Waited a few minutes and it was down nice and tight.

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After that a series of holes and pockets were cut and the plate profiled to shape. The switch will enable power to the system and turn on the green light. The push button will fire the spark plug and turn on the blue light. There is also a micro USB port for charging batteries that are stored in the upper insulator.

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I bought a high voltage generator module. 6VDC goes in and 400,000VDC comes out the other side. The gap will be smaller than a taser so i would expect it to be less exciting than a taser. More like a sparkplug!
 
Base is back from the anodizer. Looks just like the real thing. I have ordered some wire to finish off the wiring.
Should be here Monday. This weekend I'm going to make the ground strap and get that installed. If all goes well
there should be a video of the test fire by the middle of next week.


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Steve, you must be part owner in an aluminum mill. You sure use a lot of it. Nice plug, now what you going to do with it?
 
what kind of electronic are you going to put in this plug.
NICCCCE WORK
Hey Steve,
I once made a Tesla coil to generate a Jacob's Ladder effect. I just happened to have an old "neon sign display" transformer, which should be available second hand. It had a 120 VAC primary and a 50KV secondary. I used the secondary as the primary for the Tesla windings. Wiped out TV signals for blocks apparently.
Your maxi plug looks great in the pix. Hope you have it in operation for NAMES.
Take care...Brian Lawson
 
I concur....Holy Crap !

Maybe for a stand, use a big piece of Plexiglas tube, big enough to keep that base contained from people at shows :(

Scott
 
Hi Steve
I am embarrassed to say that I am about equal distance to the NAMES show as the Zanesville show ( 160 miles ) and have not been to either one.
And I have been a member here for around 6 years and have yet to start my first model engine build. Despite having a full machine shop :(
I will retire in about 5 years, I keep telling myself I will have the time then.


I sold my AMX a couple of years ago. Remember this ? https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/hello-from-medina-oh.20794/

Scott
 

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