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I guess it depends on your tooling and set-up but generally for boring I only do 1 pass per step until I start getting towards required size. I also don't care a great deal about finish till getting close to size either. It's still 'boring' but I don't need to split it into multiple sessions to get it done.
 
Thanks Cogsy, guess the reason for multiple light pass's is because i seem to always get a taper if i don't. but I'm almost there anyway. but brings me to my next story. so i forgot to add that before i started boring i needed to drill it out to about 3/4. so got my drills out to step up to the size and then i got to play one of my most favorite games (sarcasam). I'm sure some of you all have played it before as well. its called "wheres my Jacobs chuck key". i searched and i searched and looked where it is supposed to be and then where i might have left it multiple places and then back. after about an hour of this game i finally found it. right where it was supposed to be. i just kept overlooking it as its in with some of my other chuck keys in a peg board container.grrrrr i hate when i do that. so last night i was ready to start getting more accurate checks on my bore with a bore gauge (i was just using my calipers with the inside jaws for rough quick measuring). well so last night i got to play another game called "wheres my bore gauge" after about another hour of searching and cleaning up and looking right where all my other bore gauges are i remembered that the last time i used that one the tips had popped out and spring and tip flew across the room never to be found. oh well it was a harbor freight cheap kit so ill pick up another one on lunch today and then later in life hope to invest in a little more quality ones.
anyway i swithched from boring to outside cutting for the few minutes i had left in the garage last night. at this rate i might have it finished by winter 2025 or so.
 
just a little bit of progress this weekend

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I'll give you a little tip--Don't use the key. If you are cutting a gear and the cutter binds at all in the cut, it may split your gear cutter right in half. Those gear cutters are harder than the devil's horn, and it doesn't take a lot of sudden "grabbing" to destroy them.. I don't use a key with mine, and I've never had them slip.
 
Now I hope my humor didn’t offend. Especially Brian since I used his post to launch my joke. It wasn’t a derogatory thing against anyone. Especially not Brian. But think about it. How bad bacon pops and sizzles.

Anyway tonight I got to start my first partial mow of the yard for the year and soon plow garden. Home jobs are creeping up fast.
 
Thanks Brian, ill forgo the keyway when I get to use it. and speaking of tips. (time for a little humor) I have one......don't fry bacon in the nude.......
Now I hope my humor didn’t offend. Especially Brian since I used his post to launch my joke. It wasn’t a derogatory thing against anyone. Especially not Brian. But think about it. How bad bacon pops and sizzles.

Anyway tonight I got to start my first partial mow of the yard for the year and soon plow garden. Home jobs are creeping up fast.
Haha don't stress, I got a good laugh out of it.

Bit of a lurker here but I'm following your build with interest, it's all looking great!
 
im in Virginia. just plowed last night. to early to plant but plowing while still getting frost helps to break up the clumps so I don't have to disk it come time to plant. I even mowed a portion of my yard night before last. allergy season almost here.
 
finaly got a little time in the garage last night. Brian we did get a little sleet yesterday afternoon (first picture). then I started cutting some brass someone gave me. I thought it was bronze and it was beat up and old looking. I think someone had been using it as a punch. 1.125 dia but had been held with vice grips or something and both ends mushroomed out and gouges all over the sides. once I cut through the skin and old I realized its brass. but hopefully will make a good gear. I stopped cutting and called it quits when I hit .975 of the .875 I needed and went in for the night. (2nd picture of the material I'm working with). then as a safety note to self and anyone else with a combo lathe mill. don't leave a milling bit in the mill when not in use. this time I just barely nicked my hand but I have in the past cut my self pretty bad with a non moving bit left in the chuck.

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yep its a combo so the mill head is over the compound. I can raise it up and can swing it a little back and fourth but its always right in the way and I find my self always leaving a cutting tool in its chuck. I have however trained my self to always remove the chuck key from the lathe....
 
so, on the gear I was working on. turns out I was on the wrong line of the stock drive products pdf and was reading the 26 tooth gear dimensions. 24 tooth is supposed to be .812 outside and I managed to go over to somewhere between .811 or .8105. bummer.... but I went ahead and cut the gear anyway if not for anything else practice. and who knows maybe it will fit good enough. it turned out pretty good I think even if it is a little bit smaller.

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I have a problem. I have cut the gear blank for the 48 tooth gear and put it on the rocker shaft and slid the 24 tooth gear up to it on the crank shaft and they are going to be way to close to each other. the 24 tooth is actually .001 or .0015 smaller than the stock drive products spec sheet and the 48 tooth is dead on outside diameter. I took a pic with blue dye and 2 marks made by the outside and inside of the teeth from the 24 tooth rubbing on the 48 and it shows going way to deep.

so now I'm wondering if I'm reading the stock drive products sdp for short pdf dimensions wrong. if anyone has a Webster or the gears for one could they please measure the outside diameter and tell me what they are please. I really hope my mistake is in the gears and not on the supports.

I forgot to bring my phone so no pic yet of the marks I made to show just how bad they overlap.
 
I bought my gears from W. M. Berg. I just measured the OD's installed on the engine and compared the measurements with the Berg spec sheets:
48-tooth gear: Measured OD = 1.564 vs 1.562(spec)
24-tooth gear: Measured OD = 0.8112 vs 0.812(spec)

I am not sure if there is a procedure for measuring gear OD, but,
I measured the smaller gear with an 0-1 mic
The larger gear was difficult to get to so I had to use calipers. That measurement is a little shaky

HTH, Bill
 
thanks Bill. I believe that's what mine are to when I get back out to the shop ill double check but that means that the support is drilled wrong. ugh....
 
well I found the problem. the hole for the 48 tooth gear stud is .100 to far to the rear as well as .100 to high. this tells me that I forgot to subtract that from my edge finder. grrrrr. the other holes are correct though. so im thinking ill plug that hole and redrill however I have never done this type of repair before. ive seen several here do it but not I. so what do you think, tap the hole and thread a plug with lots of high strength locktite and then remove the excess to flush with both sides? or just stick a round plug in the already smoothe bore with locktite? when redrilling I will be partially hitting the old hole.

then my next question, looking at the gear chart below. the "p.d." diameter which is the bottom of the tooth grove. when I measured to make that cut to depth I subtracted P.D. from O.D and went that deep however I think that was wrong, what I should have done is subtract P.D. from O.D. then divide by 2 to calculate the depth of my cut correct?

thanks for all the help.
 
oh, and if you think I should use a threaded plug, what size would you recommend assuming the hole is at .250 right now. should I consider going a lot larger or try to stay as close to that size with my drill and tap? and should I be thinking fine thread or course thread?
 

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