Mills 1.3cc diesel - Plans by Ron Chernich from Model Engine Builder magazine

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Told you hand starting was the way to go Mike 8) Sounds a bit Sloppy, Rich, Keep the big prop, better flywheel effect. Used to start Bee's, Racer, Frog2.49 and even an OS 40 with Right hand middle finger swinging right to left over the shaft. Prop was set on shaft just starting to feel compression with right hand blade on 2.( Overall position twenty to two ) you're soooooooo close, after an hours running medium speed first and slightly rich, you can gradually lean it off and increase compression. Thanks, Suuuuuuuuuuper sound, you never forget it.
Regards Ian.
 
Hello Circlip, Thanks ever so much for the advice, I will take notice. For the time being however I am back onto the Fowler traction engine. It sounds daft but the amount of additional disconfort is out of all proportion to the act of turning it over!

So I will come back to it in a couple of weeks and give it another go with the aim of getting it run for the first hour(!) ::)

Once again, many thanks for the guidance. I didn't have a clue about it running rich etc. It gives me a starting point to increase its efficiency. Perhaps what I really need is to hire in someone with a good back! :big:
 
Metal Mickey said:
Hello, thought I would share with you the progress of the model diesel engine I am building from the article and plans of Ron Chernich (Australia) he published in issue 1 of Model Engine Builder magazine. I started in January this year. My progress depends on the time I can get in the workshop and how fit I am (excuses I know!) The build is documented on my website (along with all the other projects I have done this year) http://www.mikes-models.com I hope the photo's load as this is my first time.....

slidesawandMills018.jpg

about to start turning the front taper.....

millscrankshaft12072008006.jpg


Where I have got to at the moment........

millsfueltanksess24072008025.jpg


Made 2 fuel tanks and tops. One for a reader of my website and the other for mine.

millscrankshaft12072008003.jpg


Turning the radius on the end using the method described by Ron Chernich

millscrankshaft12072008010.jpg


Where I am now and I have jsut started to make the crankshaft.......more to follow......

And here they are......getting on with the crankshaft and the prop nut.....

millscrankshaft13thJuly2008013.jpg

the two phosphur bronze bushes trial fitted to crankshaft blank..

millscrankshaft13thJuly2008009.jpg
the prop nut....

millscrankshaft13thJuly2008022.jpg
why do we always trial fit to see what its going to look like when finished! (well at least I do......)

millscrankshaft13thJuly2008020.jpg

Ron Chernich, the designer of this engine says it will swing a 12" wooden prop.......well it looks big to me!
Click to expand...
 
That was a timely bump. After spending a couple frustrating hours getting two of my Nano 0.1-cc engines to only run on a prime, I pulled out the ol' Mills 1.3 and fired it up. Ahhh, nothing like a easy starting, strong running engine. I ran through about three tanks of fuel just basking in the sun, noise, and oil fog.

As for the Nanos, I think I must have a rotary valve timing issue, because the engines simply will not pull fuel from the tank when running. Oddly, they do pump nicely when fully choked. I can get about a 1-2-second burst off of a prime, but that's it.
 
There's nothing quite like a whiff of diesel on a hot sunny afternoon eh RK? ;D The Mills has great character.

Re the Nanos I don't want to appear to be teaching granny but have you checked the exact timing out as built? I haven't built anything as small, (or owned any diesel smaller than .5 - which all ran well) but I know a couple of guy's who have and they have both had the same problem as yourself - running on the prime but not able to obtain a consistent run. I believe the Albon Bambi sufferred from the same problems - some would run as expected but many just wouldn't. Thoughts were that possibly the pumping forces are so small that even the slightest deviation from the optimum prevent or rather hamper the engines ability to get up to a speed quickly enough to get a reasonable draw.
Thats a shame really after putting in all that work - why not try a 5cc ;).

Just a thought but have you tried starting/running them backwards?

regards - Ramon

 
Sorry to hear that you can't get them running normally.

I can't help think that it might be the classic problem of a to big venturi - not enough vacuum to lift the fuel.
 
My Nanos won't even pull fuel when it is practically force fed! I disconnected the fuel hose and held it up to see if that would help. Even with gravity assist, the fuel won't drain from the hose. Boy will I be red-faced if I the engines start in reverse. I'll visually inspect the timing first, because I'll have to wind a backwards starter spring to test the theory. I'm not one to give up and build a 5 cc.
 
Hi RK,
When I wrote that this morning I was thinking that the Nano was a side port engine - confusing it with the 'Alpha'. I got the old file out to have a look and can now see it's not! As such then running it backwards probably won't help!!

A few other things spring to mind but first your comment on the fuel not draining - Is that by 'gravity' holding the fuel tube above the engine draining into the venturi with the needle open? or from the engine held up with the fuel draining downwards ? If so and the fuel is not moving you may have a blocked jet as any slight detritus in there can play havoc with getting a fuel flow. It's certainly worth checking. On occasion I have seen the hole gum up but appear totally clear on inspection and that can really throw you out. Back flushing with a small drop of cellulose thinner works really well in clearing this problem.

Looking at the drawing/description I think it would be fair to say that it would be easy to alter the timing slightly using the described method of drilling the inlet hole in the crankshaft but not significantly enough to prevent running unless there was some serious machining errors to effect the set up using the case as a jig.

I appreciate this is a very small engine - my hat goes off to you there, that is one seriously small cylinder - but the size of prop may have a bearing too. I see it calls for a 3-1/2" diameter however going to a larger say 6 x 4 even possibly a 7 x 3, but very light, wood prop may give you a better flywheel effect in the early stages.

As you have built two - do they both exhibit the exact same characteristics?

I'm definitely not advocating you give in either, getting them to run is what it's about after all - the suggestion was very much 'tongue in cheek' - we need a smiley - but a '5' has definitely more manageble parts, well for my eyes they have ;)

Hope this helps a little, keep up the perseverence as they can be temperamental little devils at times but usually if they will run on a prime, if the timing's right they will run Thm:

Regards - Ramon



 
I've built three Nanos. I did not try starting the third one yet, but it's ready to go. I expect the same result as the first two, since I made them identical as nearly as I could. The first two act the same with respect to only running on prime and not drawing fuel.

"Is that by 'gravity' holding the fuel tube above the engine draining into the venturi with the needle open?" - yes it is. I doubt I have a blocked jet, because fuel comes through when I completely choke the venturi and flick the prop.

"When I wrote that this morning I was thinking that the Nano was a side port engine - confusing it with the 'Alpha'. I got the old file out to have a look and can now see it's not! As such then running it backwards probably won't help!!" I am confused. I though an engine with a crankshaft rotary valve would only run one direction. I know for a fact that side ports will run either direction, because my Mills 1.3 did it yesterday.
 
rklopp said:
My Nanos won't even pull fuel when it is practically force fed!
Click to expand...

rklopp said:
I I doubt I have a blocked jet, because fuel comes through when I completely choke the venturi and flick the prop.
Click to expand...

Yes I know what you are saying but though you can pull the fuel through by choking it there may still be a restriction that prevents the engine sustaining itself. It's certainly worth checking. I have experienced this situation on a number of occasions. The fuel pulls through but the engine will only run the prime out. Open up the needle a tad - same thing. Its only after the needle is out several turns that the penny drops - something is restricting the fuel. This has usually happened on engines in airframes that have been stored despite running 'after run' oil through them and general cleaning before storage. Not saying yours are just that its worth checking as the first point in eliminating potential causes of effect.

The fact that the engine will pull fuel through on the choke however shows that some suction is there which indicates potential for running at some stage.

Re the side port confusion - Thinking at first that the Nano was a side port the thought that trying it to run backwards was reasonably valid - as you say they do run backwards as easily as forwards. However once the fact that it was front rotary induction was realised that thought became redundant. Of course, having said that though designed for one way running there are many FI engines that will 'kick' themselves into backwards mode and run quite happily.

You didn't mention the prop size - I still feel that might be relevant. I know sizewise its a different kettle of fish but when I built the Nova (4.6cc) engine my friend John built one at the same time. Though a superb engineer John would be the first to admit he had no knowledge of these small motors. He phoned to say somewhat disappointedly that he couldn't get his to start. Turned out he was trying to fire it up on a 7" diameter nylon prop. Once fitted witha 13 x 6 it was away within a couple of flicks. Like I say somewhat larger in all respects but definitely something else worth considering.

I really do hope you are able to find the cause and get these little engines singing

Regards - Ramon
 
hii mike, verry nice!

for school i have to make a school project and i like the Mills 1.3cc diesel
can u please help me to purchase some plans of a 1cylinder diesel motor?
but the drawings/blueprint have to stand in millimeters
i would appriciate if you can help me.

if you can help me pls send plans to [email protected]

thanks

vince
 
ii mike, verry nice!

for school i have to make a school project and i like the Mills 1.3cc diesel
can u please help me to purchase some plans of a 1cylinder diesel motor?
but the drawings/blueprint have to stand in millimeters
i would appriciate if you can help me.

if you can help me pls send plans to [email protected]

thanks

vince
 
Does it have to be a diesel, by you email I assume you are in the UK and its not that easy to get hold of the model diesel fuel, its not the same as they sell at the local petrol station.

If you can change to a glow (nitro) engine then I can give you a link to some metric plans for a beginners engine that are free.

J
 
hi can anyone help me with a set of plans for this 1.3cc mills engine please pm me thanks ted smith
 
I built this from Ron's site plans about 2 years ago. It runs superbly, often starting first flick. Not the easiest of engines for a newcomer to builds as it requires quite a bit of thread cutting. And make sure you use a good heat treated alloy for the muff, those very thin fins are easy to have broken by a build-up of molten alloy on the tip if using soft material.

The end result looks and runs just like the original ...

Ed

IMG_0072.jpg


IMG_0073.jpg
 
Please could any body send the link so as I can get the plans for the Mill 1.3 cc engine, I have tired many many places with no luck
 
Jasonb said:
Does it have to be a diesel, by you email I assume you are in the UK and its not that easy to get hold of the model diesel fuel, its not the same as they sell at the local petrol station.

If you can change to a glow (nitro) engine then I can give you a link to some metric plans for a beginners engine that are free.

J
Click to expand...
The local petrol station doesn't sell glow plug fuel, either! Model diesel fuel is just as easy to get as glow plug fuel in the UK. I built Ron's replica Mills 1.3 when it was first published. Runs really well and not that difficult to make.
 
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