What's your latest project?

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Side shaft, counter-balanced flywheels, unique moving-cylinder design--this engine has it all!

And to think you scaled it from a paint brush that I couldn't even see at first, even when I was looking for it!

Excellent craftsmanship!
 
I have been working on a half scale 1876 Gatling gun on a naval mount (.22LR). It is mostly done now with only the extractors and the clip and clip mount yet to do. I haven't posted anything on it here as its a bit off subject. All the fine fitting parts are inside where you can't see, so it took a long time to get everything working smoothly.

1876Gatling.jpg
 
for myself, just finish doing the lexan case for the INDUCTION heater I've build.
pretty useful tool if you want to harden parts without having to take the torch out are
using the big kiln. enjoy the pictures
DSC_0101p.jpg DSC_0100p.jpg DSC_0104p.jpg DSC_0301p.jpg DSC_0477p.jpg
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0485p.jpg
    DSC_0485p.jpg
    119.1 KB · Views: 378
Hi Luc,

I've been looking at induction heating on and off over the last year. It appears you are running the coil without cooling other than air, while some say you have to have water flowing. It looks like you are able to heat parts of a reasonable size from your photos. Any problems or plans to add cooling, or for intermittent use are you happy with the performance as is? I couldn't see the amp rating on your 24V power supply, do you recall the current rating? And last question - what is the second board with the heat sink that is mounted vertically near the power switch? All the oscillator/coil combo kits up to 1500W that I've seen have a single circuit board.

Sorry for all the questions, you're the first person I've seen who can say "I know", rather than the many who can say "I think that..." :)

Thanks, Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year!
Stan
 
I have been working on a half scale 1876 Gatling gun on a naval mount (.22LR). It is mostly done now with only the extractors and the clip and clip mount yet to do. I haven't posted anything on it here as its a bit off subject. All the fine fitting parts are inside where you can't see, so it took a long time to get everything working smoothly.

View attachment 106367

Was that done to commercial plans or did you get drawings and scale them yourself?
 
Hi Luc,

I've been looking at induction heating on and off over the last year. It appears you are running the coil without cooling other than air, while some say you have to have water flowing. It looks like you are able to heat parts of a reasonable size from your photos. Any problems or plans to add cooling, or for intermittent use are you happy with the performance as is? I couldn't see the amp rating on your 24V power supply, do you recall the current rating? And last question - what is the second board with the heat sink that is mounted vertically near the power switch? All the oscillator/coil combo kits up to 1500W that I've seen have a single circuit board.

Sorry for all the questions, you're the first person I've seen who can say "I know", rather than the many who can say "I think that..." :)

Thanks, Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year!
Stan
HI Stan,I'm very please with the set up. the price is quite cheap and it's bulletproof.
the induction heater is 1000 watts from Bangood part number 1089662
the other part you inquired is a boost converter
https://www.gearbest.com/other-accessories/pp_009216617838.html?wid=1433363
power supply is 24 volts 10 amps.
the power supply feeds the booster that feed the induction heater.
with the booster I'm able to drive the induction at 36 volts 20 amps no problem . the piece in the picture is
stainless 416 1 inch diameter 2 inch long I can bring it to cherry red. A 1/4 bolt come to white hot . total price is not $100.00
CAD.
Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year!
Luc
 
Was that done to commercial plans or did you get drawings and scale them yourself?
The Action is built to the RG-G plans sold on the internet, with a lot of modifications. Those plans do not look much like the 1876 model so in that area I deviated greatly from the plans.
 
The induction heater looks like a very cool project. I have seen commercial units for many $$$$$ more than you have paid.

I did a quick search on Aliexpress and found this:
NEW AC 200V-250V To DC 48V 50A 2400W Power Supply For ZVS High Frequency Induction Heating Module
Which would match the induction heater unit:
1800W/2500W ZVS Induction Heater Induction Heating Machine PCB Board Module Flyback Driver Heater Cooling Fan Interface+ Coil
So for <$USD200, anyone can now build a 2400W induction heater.

It looks to me like the ZVS module is laid out to allow cooling water to be plumbed to the coil. Cooling the coil would reduce the coil resistance and increase the induction heating power output.
 
The Action is built to the RG-G plans sold on the internet, with a lot of modifications. Those plans do not look much like the 1876 model so in that area I deviated greatly from the plans.

Ah, thanks. I've seen the RG-G plans before. Although it has been a while, I didn't think it looked like what I remembered.
 
The induction heater looks like a very cool project. I have seen commercial units for many $$$$$ more than you have paid.

I did a quick search on Aliexpress and found this:
NEW AC 200V-250V To DC 48V 50A 2400W Power Supply For ZVS High Frequency Induction Heating Module
Which would match the induction heater unit:
1800W/2500W ZVS Induction Heater Induction Heating Machine PCB Board Module Flyback Driver Heater Cooling Fan Interface+ Coil
So for <$USD200, anyone can now build a 2400W induction heater.

It looks to me like the ZVS module is laid out to allow cooling water to be plumbed to the coil. Cooling the coil would reduce the coil resistance and increase the induction heating power output.
HI,Dazz,
You probably never dealt with Ali..... you would remember the day.#@^%$&^%#&*%(*$^(
Bangood sell the same product with a better, much better service for the same price.
in your comparison, you are using 200v AC twice what I'm using. Remember my induction heater.
HAS TO BE USER'S FRIENDLY! 120 volts is
ZVS induction heater had NO effect with cooling the coil or not. same heating time. only difference the coil is cooler after use.
no chance of burning yourself.
BTW do you have pictures of your Induction Heater assembly?????
 
I built this condenser coil to test my pressure cooker to see if it makes enough steam to run my steam engines. With 1 pint of water in the pressure cooker it takes 5 minutes to boil, it takes 30 minutes for the whole pint of water to boil off, cool & become water again. Steam is 1800 volumes larger than water, 1800 pints of steam might be enough steam. If I connect the condenser coil to the steam engine exhaust & build a tiny water pump for the steam engine to pump water back into the pressure cooker boiler it will be a closed system with very little steam lost, engine will run all day on the same 1 pint of water. I had a lot of copper tubing laying around I kept making this coil larger until fan was not needed for cooling. 40 turns 7" diameter works good.

With pressure cooker connected directly to an engine, my largest 1.5" x 1.5" steam engine runs 50 RPM. My 1"x1" engine runs about twice as fast. My 6 cylinder engine is .5" bore .5" stroke it runs about 120 RPM.

Never buy a bottle of this type E&J Brandy this crap is terrible, sweeter than pancake syrup with 40% alcohol. Gross horrible stuff. I paid $18 for this crap I am not throwing it in the trash. It took me about 25 minutes to remove the alcohol the rest of the sugar liquid went in the trash. I can burn this alcohol in my jet engine, I distilled it twice to get 95% alcohol, 5% water burns good in my engine.

Is there a why up upload photos here or do photos need to be uploaded in another place and linked here like I did this picture?

https
file.php
 
Last edited:
HI Stan,I'm very please with the set up. the price is quite cheap and it's bulletproof.
the induction heater is 1000 watts from Bangood part number 1089662
the other part you inquired is a boost converter
<snip>
Luc

Hi Luc,

Thanks you for the detailed reply. Heater and power supply were just ordered. It will be nice to harden small one off cutters without having to heat up a heat treat oven for less than an ounce of A2.

Happy New Year,
Stan
 
HI,Dazz,
You probably never dealt with Ali..... you would remember the day.#@^%$&^%#&*%(*$^(
Bangood sell the same product with a better, much better service for the same price.
in your comparison, you are using 200v AC twice what I'm using. Remember my induction heater.
HAS TO BE USER'S FRIENDLY! 120 volts is
ZVS induction heater had NO effect with cooling the coil or not. same heating time. only difference the coil is cooler after use.
no chance of burning yourself.
BTW do you have pictures of your Induction Heater assembly?????
Hi
I hadn't considered building one until I saw your version. 220VAC is standard where I live.
I have purchased 100s of items from Aliexpress. Only a couple of purchases have gone sour.
The few bad are more than compensated by the very large $$ savings compared to buying locally.

My only point about coil cooling is that it will improve energy transfer to the item being heated by improving the efficiency of the coil. Reducing temperature will reduce coil resistance which will reduce coil losses.

Performance could also be improved by using larger diameter copper tube. At radio frequencies, only the outside surface conducts, so increasing tube diameter will increase conducting surface area.

Dazz
 
Just coming back to life after a bunch of nonsense. But went through my mini lathe added a quick change post got a boring bar on the way extended mill table and about to order a rotary table with chuck dividing plates and tail stock. Have some ideas brewing
 

Latest posts

Back
Top