Grinding wheel choices?

I have or had an official set of plans - back to when Norman Tinker was directly responsible. I also had a set of the THREE castings. For some reason,I didn't make it. Probably, I opted for the Quorn n which is clearly more difficult but an excellent 'masterpiece'. It is supposed to be copied from the Deckel aabout which I cannot argue but I now have Chinese Deckel clone. This has more about it than the Deckel/Alexander and there is yet again a really large set of videos and write ups- which I am following.

Like for like, the Quorn has a very similar copy called the Bonelle but made from bar stock. It does look the bees knees!

I did run across a YouTube video showing reuse of insert cutters. The interesting thing was he took the top side and ground down into the insert, that removed any rake or chip cutter. Ended up similar to a flat carbide insert, while maintaining strength. I do think he used coolant and a diamond wheel.

Harold's book showed up last nite and with some reading, I noticed he also used the side of the wheel in a quite a few applications. I'm leaning heavily to buying a cup wheel for sanity sake, but do agree with y'all that I could get away with it, I just work better when my hairs aren't standing up. And can't make tools sharp enough to cut them down yet

So alum oxide only hss, does cobalt also fall here?
Green wheels for inserts and glued carbide
Diamond to clean up after carbide roughing, or finishing
Sounds good. I will order them.

I think that you should be concentrating on--- getting the first hss knife tool working- Properly

goldstar31 said:

As for being a poor benighted so and so at a grinding machine for the rest of his life- you must really be joking. Life should be better than that- mine is.

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That’s a pretty pompous-ass thing to say Norm. A lot of my friends at work have chosen the honorable profession of machinist. They stand at lathes, mills, and yes - even tooling grinders – all day long to earn their paychecks.

Question – multiple times you’ve stated that I purchased junk machinery that will only result in lowering my neighbor’s property value. This is puzzling to me, considering my machines are tucked away inside my shop, and people my must literally drive onto my property to even see my shop (not to mention I’m surrounded primarily by forest land). But even if what you said were true, why say it? And why say it more than once? It's seems you must relentlessly jab at others in order to stroke your own ego.

I'm trying to take this all with a grain of salt – considering the last time you insulted my shop equipment, your subsequent post was to claim that your lathe is the Rolls Royce of the metal working industry. I’m trying to figure out if you’re joking, and perhaps the joke is going right over my head - or if you’re really just being a jerk. I’m hoping you can clear this up for me. . . .?

Naiveambition said:

So alum oxide only hss, does cobalt also fall here?

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I asked the toolmakers today specifically about sharpening cobalt steels. They sharpen using the same process for HSS.

Entropy455 said:

That’s a pretty pompous-ass thing to say Norm. A lot of my friends at work have chosen the honorable profession of machinist. They stand at lathes, mills, and yes - even tooling grinders – all day long to earn their paychecks.

Question – multiple times you’ve stated that I purchased junk machinery that will only result in lowering my neighbor’s property value. This is puzzling to me, considering my machines are tucked away inside my shop, and people my must literally drive onto my property to even see my shop (not to mention I’m surrounded primarily by forest land). But even if what you said were true, why say it? And why say it more than once? It's seems you must relentlessly jab at others in order to stroke your own ego.

I'm trying to take this all with a grain of salt – considering the last time you insulted my shop equipment, your subsequent post was to claim that your lathe is the Rolls Royce of the metal working industry. I’m trying to figure out if you’re joking, and perhaps the joke is going right over my head - or if you’re really just being a jerk. I’m hoping you can clear this up for me. . . .?

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Still haven't seen a picture of this mythical " Rolls Royce " of lathes or any of Normans workshop equipment !
Wish i could look out of my shop and enjoy the view you have though !

I think in the long run there has been too much bullshit added to this string that the OP must be wondering why they even asked the question .
I know there are specific types and grades of wheel for each type of materal to be graound - do i adhere to this ? No ! I just used what came with the grinder , usually aluminium oxide and i have used this to sharpen HSS and carbide although carbide is a bit of a chore it got it done . I built the harold hall unit and can confirm it works well , is easy to make and cost little compared to a deckel clone or quorn casting set . One needs to remember we are model engineers not a job shop so with careful use cutter sharpening can be minimised and as for lapping - are you serious ? Sounds like something a wanker would do ! HSS and carbide tools are ground then honed lightly with an oilstone and that is it so you can stick your mirror finish where the sun doesn't shine - aint nobody got time for that !

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What has yor personal life got to do with this forum ? This seems to be a re occuring thing with you when you are confronted with telling the truth .
If this forum is your only contact with the outside world thats fine , i and along with many other users of the forum look forward to conversing with you and the many others who can no longer use their workshop for whatever reason and I'm always willing to learn from those who came before me - but please keep your personal life to yourself until asked about it . If indeed you have all this equipment that you say you do then post a few pics , maybe someone will make an offer on a few things .

I'm going too blind really to use it so a fabricated Stent. £100 to collect from Newcastle upon Tyne, England.
The £100 will go to Ovarian Cancer charity! Be quick or it will be dumped.

More bargains to come.

ok fellows, some follow up on this post. I ordered the three wheels you see here.

I do have a ? Regarding mounting.
I assumed I would need to make arbors to center fit the grinder shaft to the wheel center hole. How much coverage is needed on the wheel. The plate mount has 4 mount holes, so is this the proper way to mount or just specific to certain grinders? Do I need backing plates to run these. I know I will on the 4 inch cup wheel. But the plate mount, I searched for info but couldn't locate anything useful

Initially, I have no idea of what the regulations for the use of grinding wheels is in the USA but here in the UK, the Health and Safety regulations run to a whole 53 pages. However, I have no doubt that similar guidance exists for you and might I suggest that you also take notice. A broken wheel can travel at a modest 280 miles an hour! Need I say much more?

Yes, our regulations do briefly cover most of the points that you have raised.

I hope that writing the foregoing is not only in concern for your safety but to other users here.

Regards

Norman

Naiveambition said:

ok fellows, some follow up on this post. I ordered the three wheels you see here.
View attachment 106236
I do have a ? Regarding mounting.
I assumed I would need to make arbors to center fit the grinder shaft to the wheel center hole. How much coverage is needed on the wheel. The plate mount has 4 mount holes, so is this the proper way to mount or just specific to certain grinders? Do I need backing plates to run these. I know I will on the 4 inch cup wheel. But the plate mount, I searched for info but couldn't locate anything useful

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Those 2 larger wheels are intended for this machine:


I don't know if you are in the USA, but this is an affordable machine;
https://allindustrial.com/87-002-335-6-carbide-grinder/

Through my info research I think I ran across a thread using these wheels on a everyday grinder., but also with a made backplate. The pic seems to show a backing plate , and seems to use the center hole for placement and four holes for mounting.
So for safety sake I will add a plate and new guards, and see what happens. I've never had a grind wheel come apart, and can gladly say I don't want a first! If it doesn't work out I can look for this style grinder later on?
I must be using the wrong search words when finding useful info on theses grinder mounts. Even pics are few and far between

Ignoring your ideas- good or bad, there is a way of producing angles of tool bits with nothing but a pair of decent wheels and a flat area- perhaps made of 'oh so expensive scrap wood or metal-- and believe me it is dead simple.

so you have a very cheap 'common or garden 6" grinder with decent wheels replacing the usual crap and you want an angle ground.
So you want a 7 degree angle( Typical of a of of angles in grinding lathe tools) and want to use the periphery of the wheel and a flat surface( from the centre of the spindle)

Your packing to get is is the constant 0.0088" in your math(s) so to get 7 degrees you multiply

0.0088" times 6" ( your wheel diameter) and 7( your desired angle) and you get 0.369"( I think).

OK that is not a very useful thing in say wood but a few thous different is 0.375" or more useful figure of 3/8th of an inch and your drop or raise your packing that amount from the spindle centre. and there you have it.

one clean angle 7 degrees- with less time than I have typed.

The constant 0.0088 remains constant and assuming that you still have a 6" wheel and want 10 degrees the math remains

0.0088 x 6 and now 10 and you get 0.528" which is about a half an inch in practical terms.

This , believe it or not, dispenses with all the fancy charts which are published and people play sticky to how they arrived at the figures.

Quite simply, try it- and be pleasantly surprised.

Norman.

Now I have rather too many tool and cutter grinders but one day I came home with what was once a VERY expensive Clarkson that changed hands at a little more than 100 dollars- oh I got an electric chuck thrown in but no Clarkson tooling. I made up a set of wooden 2x2" tool holders held down with penny washers and a long bolt with wing nut--- and happily re-ground my existing but then worn lathe tools.

One way, but others work too

Naiveambition said:

Through my info research I think I ran across a thread using these wheels on a everyday grinder., but also with a made backplate. The pic seems to show a backing plate , and seems to use the center hole for placement and four holes for mounting.
So for safety sake I will add a plate and new guards, and see what happens. I've never had a grind wheel come apart, and can gladly say I don't want a first! If it doesn't work out I can look for this style grinder later on?
I must be using the wrong search words when finding useful info on theses grinder mounts. Even pics are few and far between

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You should be able to fabricate a mounting plate that these will mount on. The center 1-1/4" hole fits over a pilot on the motor arbor, so that feature is important. The 4 small holes use a flat head screws (on my wheels) that I think are 1/4"-28. Metric substitutions will work if you have the taps.
The important features are the bored hole for your grinder arbor, that is concentric to the pilot for the plate mounted grinding wheels you purchased.
I've never seen the specifications for this mount. I'm sure it exists in some SAE/ANSI document. And these are not free.
The big thing missing is the double ended machines are reversible for left and right tool grinding. That and the tool rest will need to be fabricated by you so you can adjust the clearance and rake cutting angles.