Crowbar lever craft construction

hello we have to move an industrial machinery, so we need a lever lever a sturdy bar with a ferrule to remove it from the ground and to drive the forklift to move it, some ideas some useful suggestions, the machine weighs about 3 tons is about 4 meters wide 90 cm long about 1.50 meters in cast iron, thank you, we can build it or do I have to use the skills of a locksmith to make me hot forging? thanks to those who will provide useful suggestions

If the wheel bar is just for lifting then make what you posted. A bit of 25mm steel bar would be strong enough. A half shaft from a truck would make a good bar.
If its for moving the machine then provided the machine has a relatively flat base and the floor is good enough for a wheeled crowbar then the simplest way is to use a series of rollers of the same diameter. Something like 3/4 or 1 inch NB steel pipe would suffice. Jack up one end and place roller 1 under the m/c nearest the tow truck then place 3 evenly spaced rollers along the length. As the load moves keep an eye on the spacing of the rollers. As one drops out the back take it and place it under the front. Keep a short link to the forklift towing so it can stop the load if it overruns. If you need to turn a corner you can place the rollers at opposing angles. To move slightly sideways put the rollers at the same angle. I have moved 20 -30 ton machines this way. Make sure that every time you place the roller under the front you are careful not to get your fingers trapped.

they have to disassemble an old mechanical workshop, to redevelop it, dismantle it, and to convert it we need to move machinery like this, we have a 3-ton hyster forklift but it does not make it, it lifts into the rear
if maybe I had some photos or some practical example, we are in big trouble the local is tight the forklift can not maneuver with ease the crane can not enter for reasons of encumbrance, we will have to push the machines out of the premises with the forklift and then lift them with a crane positioned behind the crane of a truck, what do you suggest? thanks for the precious suggestions and the precious words and advice

I'm no expert in any way on moving large machines like your photos. I helped the millwright that I hired to move a large lathe I purchased, into my shop. Also reading other threads about machine movement; you need to have machine skates. These are low profile rollers that the machine is placed on. These rollers typically are a minimum of 4 wheels, with a rotating pad on top. The rollers can be rotated as the machine is move to steer it around corners and such. To lift the machine they have a toe jack, as the ends of the machine have recesses that this jack uses to lift or lower for the skate wheel insertion.
I've copied photos to show the idea. You should be able to rent these locally.






One last thing, do everything slow, it is very easy to topple a machine over and crunch it to junk.
My lathe is very small compare to your photos, and it weighs 3 tons (5800lbs.).

Also once you get the machine lifted, there are leveling screws that have a pad on the floor. Retract these jack screws so it is above the bottom of the machine (or remove them), and pick up the pads from the floor.
Also note on the side of the machines, are round holes. These go all the way through to the other side. You insert the largest diameter steel round that fits in these and that provides the location for attaching the lifting straps your crane will use to lift. They should be long enough so the strap will not slide off during lifting. The diameter is important so it does not bend and dump the machine while lifting. I see these holes on 2 of the machines. Using these will keep the machine level horizontally during lifting. If you can find the manuals for these machines either still at this location or from the internet, that will give instructions on lifting safely. Never put a lifting strap around the machine chuck spindle (millwright's do this, but the spindle can be bent from this). I assume you want the machines to still be sellable after the move.

This is a photo of the instructions that came with my lathe for lifting. Just adding this as a reference to understand where the round bar stock is put through the holes of the machine.

If you cannot use a crane then those holes can also be used to jack up the machine to place rollers (or skates) under. You can insert bars through the lifting holes and jack up the machine using a bottle jack under the bars. It is normal practice to use two jacks, one on each side to lift evenly. Just lift by small amounts, just enough to inset the rollers.

il carrello a tre tonnellate non è sufficiente allo scopo, la gru non può essere utilizzata per ragioni di spazio e altezza, è troppo macchinosa da manovrare, se hai altre idee ti invito a inviarmela grazie

https://uvit.it/pattini-di-trasport...MI-fq0g_Oe3wIVCYbVCh3M7wK7EAAYBCAAEgKT0_D_BwE


http://www.barberopietrospa.it/SollevamentoAncoraggio/Carrelli-a-rulli.aspx

Hire a mill rite company to do the move. It's worth the money.

Many machines will have recesses in the base where you can insert a bar for raising the machine high enough to get a toe lift jack in place.
Raise one end of the machine at a time and inset blocking until it is high enough to place skates under it, then lower it onto the skates. If you use 4 skates there will be a tendency to lose one skate when passing over a low spot in the floor. If you are moving top-heavy machines like lathes it is good advice to bolt 4 or foot long timbers crossways under the machine to prevent tipping on uneven floors or if you should lose a skate. I do not own a Johnson Bar (with wheels) The bars I use are are like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/5891A21

The manuals for some of the lathes I have owned recommended using a sling under one or two of the bed cross members and lift from above.

My rigging kit consists of two 5'-6" long pinch bars, a toe lift jack, skates, and lots of blocking. Hardwood blocking is preferred for heavy work.

thanks for the right suggestions, the idea was to lift it under the rollers as the Egyptians did to move the blocks of stone to erect the pyramids, the lever bar we needed just to lift them from the edges and put under thickness of wood or atro , I have to find the carriages with skates or consult firm removals industrial lifts dismantling maybe have the right tools, thanks anyway valuable suggestions

Equipment skates are expensive to purchase. I second the recommendation to rent (unless you want to own a set). People that rent equipment skates normally rent toe-jacks also. Ignitor linked nice pictures of each.

Use caution when using lever-arms (prybars) to move machinery. Lifting a 3-ton load with an 8 foot long pry-bar (i.e. 4 inch lever with an 8 foot lever arm) will require 250 pounds of force at the end of the 8 foot lever. When loads shift unexpectedly using prybars, the prybars sometimes go flying across the room. For heavy machines, it's best to stick with hydraulics.

The other thing to remember about equipment skates is that a tiny piece of debris (pebble, rock, small sliver of something) will jam the roller and prevent movement. Point being - sweep the floor clean, and sweep the floor often, when moving machinery.

the floor is made of concrete, the renter of the crane and the forklift would get them, otherwise we put ourselves under the iron pipes or bars full of steel type egyptian pyramids construction of the metal rails or rail-type steel plates railway, the most large weighs 6 tons is 6 meters long, very cumbersome, clearly you should not ruin the lathe during translation, you need to push the various machines to the exit door and then lift them and load them on board the trucks. if you have other precious suggestions, I invite you to thank me

Does the concrete floor extend outside the building?
If not, how close can the crane get to the building?

I recently had a large lathe delivered to my shop (pictured below). My concrete ends at the shop's doors (which are 16 feet wide, by 14 feet tall each). The crane operators set the headstock end (heavy end) onto equipment skates, onto my concrete floor - just inside my shop door. The tailstock end was temporarily set onto the dirt, so that the crane could reattach only on the tailstock-end. The crane was then able to extend (i.e. roll) the machine fully onto the concrete. My observation is that the most difficult part of this move was transitioning between the crane onto the concrete. More specifically - if you cannot roll the machines completely clear of your building, the crane lift becomes appreciably more challenging (and dangerous).

Below are pictures of my large lathe. It's about 18 feet between centers, and weighs around 25,000 pounds (weight estimated by the crane operator). The lathe was delivered on a 22-wheel flatbed truck. The crane-truck was a separate vehicle.

a friend of mine suggested to create a support or to insert steel bars in the lifting holes and to lift it with a jack, the floor is all in concrete, but the grinding machine is cumbersome and heavy and the path to perform nob is straight straight but to L and then to Z, the processing department is located in a narrow room, so I have to drive 5 meters, turn and dump the car 90 ° along 6 linear meters, turn again 90 ° and go 8 meters until the exit door, a huge effort if done manually, at the time were employed several workers without a crane and forklift, what do you think, clearly I do not have to ruin the car is 30 years but it works great

OxToolCo just produced a you tube video on moving machinery. I was very impressed with his method. It is worth viewing

thanks for the right suggestion, I ask you too much trouble if you could kindly link the video, thanks sorry if I take advantage of your kindness and your availability, I'm sorry if I'm petulant, thanks again for the right valuable advice

http://www.lathes.co.uk/lifting-a-lathe/







http://www.lathes.co.uk/lifting-a-miller/

One possible option that might help is "Rol-A-Lift". They make them to move up to 5 ton, but are quite expensive to buy. Some equipment rental facilities have them. I made one that worked well for me, but my heaviest piece is about one ton. See the link:
https://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipment/detail/1218/0440080/3-ton-roll-a-lift/

John M

https://www.rolalift.com/RAL/Products.html


grazie per il prezioso suggerimento, se avete altre idee e consigli risolutivi vi invito a inviarmelo e partecipare alla discussione grazie ancora

Making A Burke Bar





sorry if I reopen the discussion what do you think of the BURKE bar, better crow bar, how could I make it to handle big heavy and bulky loads? I think it could be useful for heavy work I think it's very versatile and robust, am I wrong?