Steam Engine Gaskets

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deeferdog

deeferdog

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Seeking advice on gasket material for my engine. I was thinking of using cardboard from a manilla folder, any good? Would you recommend using a gasket goo? I'd rather not as what I remember about it, it was messy. I can make a big enough mess without sticky goo but if it has to be.....Regards, Peter
 
I've never made a steam engine but I use thin Teflon sheet for my I.C. engines. Easy to cut and punch holes in, flexible and heat/oil/fuel resistant. I'd say it'd be just fine for steam engines as well. Search on eBay and you can get many different thicknesses.
 
For I.C. gaskets (carby, intake, etc.) I'd say yes but I just don't know about steam as I've never built one. I have a sheet of 0.3mm which I've successfully used for all I.C. gaskets including the head gasket and it's easy to work with and seals nicely. For making nice round holes, brass tubing with a slightly chamfered end makes a great punch. For larger holes and odd shapes I just use scissors or a hobby knife.
 
For a single cylinder marine diesel engine I once used a thin copper sheet to create a head gasket. It worked very well in high heat and high pressure.

Just a thought for your consideration.
 
I do a lot of steam engines, have some sheets of automotive fiber gasket material that works great. It comes in several thicknesses, cuts easy. The normal cardboard and paper stock from envelopes and such tend to be too porous, and you will get leaks running through the paper out to the edge. The automotive versions are treated with something to prevent that. Check the auto parts places or Amazon for fiber gasket sheet.
 
Many US garden railway engine builders recommend using a dollar bill , do you have them in OZ ? in the UK the smallest note is £5 and they are now made of plastic.
Whenever possible I lap all mating surfaces on 320-ish wet or dry , this should be a good enough seal , I use a thin smear of Loctite flange sealant 574 if there are any doubts.
After bolting up the parts let any surplus set and it is easy to remove.
Dan.
 
I have only part made a couple of steam engines,but paper or thin card
work OK.Paper does absorb moisture and expands to be self sealing
as does thin card.I have also used grease proof (cooking) pape and rebuild
For the final build a silcon sealer can be used and when set is high temp resistant.It can be easily scraped okk for a rebuild.Again lightly oiled or greased paper is also effective.Some parts are more critical than others.I always worked on suck it and see,after all its a working model not NASA hardware
Purists might disagree
 
Thanks to everyone who took time to reply to my query, I have to admit that I like the approach of Abby and I think I'll give it a go. Cheers, Peter.
 
The US dollar bill was suggested because its made from high quality
linen paper.Dont know about Stirling but 5 pounds is more expensive
and dont know about the new Mylar plastic bills
 
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