Hoglet build

Find deals on amazon
Shop deals on ebay
Advertise with us
Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Took my printer and inverted (mirrored) the image for the left side!

image.jpg
 
I have a question I've been searching for all night!

The spark plug hole shows that it's slotted (7/8" I guess). Now the dim. Is on center by .813 (0, .813 X 30°)

1. Would I.. from center, move to .813 then center drill to mark location?
2. Next move 30° make sure I'm still on center and line my drill bit up with the center drill location I made earlier? Drill thru in a step process until I reach the size of drill required for M10X1 ?
3. Then with a slot drill (7/8"-.875") go to depth of .675" ?
4. Next tap the hole M10X1 ?

I can't think of any other way to get location of the .813 without center drilling while horizontal then move to 30° and then try and line up my mark I just made with the center drill to get location?
 
A wiggler is a very handy tool for what your doing(if I understand correctly). With the mill running, true up the wiggler and use it to line up the spindle with the layout lines. Be sure to use a center drill or even spotface with an endmill so your drill doesn't wander off down the slope. Cheers!

IMG_1992.jpg
 
I thought about pinning a piece of aluminum at the base (center)of the triangle(see pictures)
Then pin at 90* to find center of part, zero DRO
Next pull pins and pin at 30* (while keeping pin on center rotate to 30*)
Still on zero should be exactly on dim.

IMG_0862.jpg


IMG_0863.jpg
 
I also suggested the wiggler in the other thread that you asked in.

If you don't have a wiggler look up "stick pin" which works just as well
 
I have something that might be interesting?
I was watching Mr.pete222 on YouTube and he was putting a 60* taper on a part so he put his compound at 30*......

Now the hoglet for the cylinders says to put a 5* taper on the cylinder....
Since it calls out 5* on one side would this really be called a 10* taper or did I mess up and should of set my compound to 2.5* instead of 5*.....?
 
5deg was the correct angle to set your slide at in this case.

If you extended the 5deg line down each side then the "point" they form would be 10degrees and this is termed the "included angle"
 
Have you ever had plans all week to spend time on the weekend in your machine shop to only have your Wife get in the way arrgggg well always next weekend
 
Doing fantastic work. I miss your videos I've watched all of them you have so far. Great build
 
When making the valve guides and valve it calls for .156" why? Why not just 5/32? Did the guys that made their engines use .156" or did you do some voodoo and move up to 5/32" .1562? Does the .2 even matter??? Also the .170" mounting holes instead of .1695"? (#18 ) why the crazy size call out?

Do I go out n buy the .156 reamer or use the hundreds of 5/32" I have??
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Let's make a 4 cylinder flat
2 3
Replies
55
Views
8K
Rdean33422
R
Jonathan Coates
Vevor 7" tilting milling vice, mine landed.
Replies
10
Views
1K
krypto
krypto
Brian Rupnow
Electric Starter System for Model Engines
2 3 4
Replies
61
Views
8K
Petet Fernell
Petet Fernell
C
New Engine Design thought process
Replies
13
Views
623
lohring
lohring
StretchNutsTheClown
I need some guidance on building a steam powered pump for central heating.
Replies
19
Views
2K
Niels Abildgaard
N

Latest posts

Back
Top