Kyle's Edwards Radial build.

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kylenlord

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Hello everyone,
I've been chipping away at small parts to the Edwards radial for the past two months. It's with my recent acquisition of a used 10" phase 2 rotary table that this isn't a fleeting fancy, and that I'm truly enjoying this process. It is with full disclosure that I'm new to machining but am trying to have a steep learning curve. Any mistakes I make I'll post, so others may not make it and hopefully I won't make it again. As it stands I waited too long to get any precise measuring equipment. Last week I got a set of mitutoyo micrometers, and after checking my parts again most things are a bit big by a few thousands. Darn you harbor freight digital micrometers, never again.

I'll try to update my thread each day until it catches up to where I currently am. I'll start with the Pistons today. I started with 6061 borrowed from work. It's 1" rod and I grabbed enough to make 10 Pistons. I learned initially to ease into your last measurement. Many small passes beats going too small. Each rod I cut is enough for two pistons. Grooving tools were ground from hss blanks. Again, it's very easy to over grind, always ease into your measurement.

I bored out the back of the piston with my new 3/8" boring bar set. I went back and forth between moving the carriage and the compound. That's when I learned the make absolutely sure the compound is parallel. No biggie though the taper is just a couple thousands.

At this point I made a plate to hold my lathe chuck to my mill. I made the conrod clearance with a 3/8" carbide end mill. I didn't like the carbide... I also wished I used a 5/16" endmill and made two passes. It's not pretty but it'll work.

I still need to drill and ream the wrist pin hole, add the bottom groove and drain holes. Ultimately I trashed about four Pistons, but these were my first attempts at accurate parts. I learned a lot.

Bear with me everyone, still figuring out how to post here.
Thanks
Kyle

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Code:
Another attempt at photos, when I upload multiple photos it only posts one.

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Okay I think I'm making some progress with the iPhone app.

Here is how I located the piston to my spindle.

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I setup a scrap plate to rest my dual indicator so I'd know I was plunging in .500". I made a total of 10 passes going .050 deeper each time.

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Here is my new toy, it was $250 from a consignment store. It has some wear and tear, weighs a tons, eats up a lot of space but is amazingly solid. Everything else I'll work around.

To be continued
Kyle

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After I made a genuine effort at the pistons, I decided to work on the cylinder liners.

First of all thanks again to everyone who gave me advice on cast iron.
My purchaser at work ordered me a 12" section of the easy to machine 1.5" ci from McMaster Carr. This was enough to make five, I'd like to have extra but I didn't want to buy another 12" section. I promptly cut it apart at my works horizontal band saw.

I learned a lot from this process. Cast iron is loud to machine, throws hot metal at me, covers everything including my hands in black, and left me with a cough for a day.

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I turned enough down just to hold the piece true and flipped it around to clean up the other side.

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After I had enough fun at home, I brought the pieces to work and drilled to 13/16" on the south bend we have.

My local machine shop supplier had a carbide tipped boring bar that I used to bore. I was having an awful time, the boring bar chattered and whined and left a rough finish.

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After I did some research, everyone recommended setting the boring bar just above center. Sure enough I must have been .010" too low. I quick adjust of height and I was pleasantly surprised at how much better it was cutting.

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All five are now bored about .004" under. I'm debating if I want to try the 3 blade brake hone or make a brass lap. I also left the length long, and still have to turn down to final od. I wanted to leave meat for boring in hopes it would keep any chatter down. Next up will be valves.

Thank you for looking
Kyle
 
Pete,
Thank you for the advice. When I turn down the od of the cylinders I will get a fresh carbide bit and lower the speed.

The valves were quite a project by themselves. They are turned from 1/2" 416 stainless purchased off eBay.

I started by turning down the tip to just before the bottom of the valve keeper. When I used a flat tipped grooving tool it left the main stem as a straight shot for turning.

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I made it through two valves before I decided to figure out the gearing on my lathe for power feeding. I'm so glad I did power feed helped so much. I started with large cuts and worked my way down until I was only cutting .002" at a time.

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The bell shape was cut with a hss bit with a radius I ground into it. I left a little spud, marked the number one jaw in the chuck so I could go back and polish the stems. Well after I polished and parted the valve off, I decided to double check my measurements.

Sure enough the radius started about .015" to high on each one. Backtracking through I found out where I went wrong. My mini lathe has the dial as .040" or 1mm per revolution. Well I used that dial to move the cutter 1.18" from the tip. It turns out that mm is correct and the discrepancy is .014" short.

Because I already parted the head off, I had to get creative. I held the valves by the stem, mounted my radius tool backwards and ran the machine in reverse.

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This was beyond the cross slides threads so I had to pull the slide in by hand. This worked surprisingly well although I was sweating it. I probably have about 20 hrs into these valves.

Lastly the compound was set to 45 degrees and all the seat areas were cut.

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Pictured is a model airplane tail wheel for size reference.

Of course once I finally got a real measuring tool I rechecked the valve stems they're coming out at an average of .1255 to .126. I'm sure this would have been apparent in an 1/8" reamed hole.

Not a terrible thing though, I plan to polish the stems further until they're the right dimension.

View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1457326177.414097.jpg

In the next post I'll go through making the link rods.

Thanks for looking
Kyle
 
Peter glad to have you along!
Ill do my best, I hope to not disappoint.
Kyle
 
Nice work indeed. Looking forward to following your progress
 
Thank you Hopper, glad to have you along.

The last post that will get my thread caught up is in the link rods.

I ordered a small plate of 1/4" 7075 for the link rods, rockers and rocker brackets. The plans call for 2024 but it seems 7075 is stronger so I don't see an issue.

On the do-all bandsaw at work I cut the plate apart.

The rod blanks went into the mill and got squared up.

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I milled the skinny center section, and then the slot on both sides. This time I used a smaller than the slot endmill and it worked much better than the Pistons.

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One side was drilled and reamed to 1/4", the other to 6mm. The wrist pin comes from an O.S. Engine though I'd like to make my own.

I made an mt-3 plug to fit the center of the rotary table. It was drilled and tapped 8-32.

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Next I made a spacer to center the link pin holes to the table.

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Fortunately I used this practice rod for my first attempt. I centered the table and moved .2" over for the radius. I neglected to add half the cutter, as soon as I cut into my .375 washer I realized my error.

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When I rounded the opposite side I ran into an issue where at a radius of .2" I was left with a small flat. The length was correct, upon investigating my holes are about .007" too far apart. I scribed this distance with my Harbor Freight calipers. It's reading smaller than actual, so very shortly they'll be getting repaired with a hammer.

View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1457411204.981580.jpg

The small flats can be seen in the bottom. It's a small amount, though I'll double check when I do the compression check.

With the short time I had tonight I began on the valve guides.

It's easy to machine bearing bronze from McMaster. The end was turned to 1/4" for a 1/4-28 thread.

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Then the center was drilled 3/32" and reamed to 1/8".

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I must admit I'm a bit confused though. I tested my valves in the reamed hole. The only one that went in fits snugly and measures at .1255". I would think that it shouldn't go in at that size. Does an 1/8" reamer leave an 1/8" hole or is it slightly larger?

All the other valves are wont go in, but that's better than being too small.

Whew that was a mouthful, but it's taken me 2 1/2 months to get here.

As always thank you all for looking
Kyle
 
Does an 1/8" reamer leave an 1/8" hole or is it slightly larger?

Probably yes but hard to tell without knowing what you bought. Sometimes the 'nominal sizes are spec'd like -0.0000" +0.0002". So that would give you 0.1250 - 0.1252" hole. Or if its an ebay reamer, 0.124 - 0.126 :) Here is excerpt from Travers catalog just to show variations... dowel pin reamers go reverse tolerance looks like.

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When one is concerned with the actual size of the hole, one always measures
the drill/reamer with a calibrated micrometer.

Never assume!!

Pete
 
I've always considered calipers to be "precision guess-timators." Possibly nothing wrong with the reamer, the error may be in the measurement of the valve stem. Measure it with a micrometer instead of the calipers, and see where you're at.

$.02, and worth every penny.
 
Ok, thanks guys.

Well I measured the reamer, clearly labeled at 1/8". Can't read the name but it's from a local supplier.

I set my mic at .126" and spun the reamer and felt for resistance. At .1255" I would feel a small amount of resistance, at .1254" I couldn't get it through a revolution and I didn't want to force it.

Upon measuring the widest part is at the tip is .1255, and it tapers back towards the mandrel to about .1245".

I guess this explains why a valve I measured at slightly over .125" would go in. I'm glad my valves are still slightly too large. I guess the next question is what's an acceptable valve clearance? The plans spec the valves between .124" and .1245" for an 1/8" hole so I'm guessing it's .001 to .0005 clearance.

Measure tools before drilling and reaming, lol I'll be writing that one down.

Thanks everyone
Kyle
 
Ok Kyle you asked for it, I'm on your 6 again.
I would expect to get .125 with a 1/8" ream. Mic your ream to be certain it's not an oversize ream. If it's on size I would look at the set up for run out. Slight misalignment of centers could easily give you 5 ten thousands. That ream is hanging out there, did you chamfer the hole prior to reaming? A shorter piloted ream may be helpful.
What are your tolerances on the valve guides? Your valve stems are .0005 to .001 oversize right now correct? You might be in a good place, always better to have material to remove than be under your target dimension.

Michael
 
I set my mic at .126" and spun the reamer and felt for resistance. At .1255" I would feel a small amount of resistance, at .1254" I couldn't get it through a revolution and I didn't want to force it.

Kyle

No, no, no, no. Don't set the micrometer then spin the part through it!! No!

Hold the part in one hand, the micrometer in the other and slowly close the
micrometer over the part while moving the parts slightly to feel for the large
area of the part. Gently! Then read the mic.

Micrometer is a measuring tool not a go/no go gage. But you wouldn't force those either!

Pete
 
Hey Michael,

Per Pete's advice I'm going to recheck the size of the reamer correctly before I announce my findings.

There is a possibility of my tailstock being off, I'm not a fan of the tailstock adjustment in the 7x12 lathe. It does not repeat the same settings very well.

I may be wrong but I thought the reamer was meant to be that long, that its supposed to follow the drilled hole. I didn't chamfer the hole, but the very tip of the cutting flutes have a radius.

The valves are meant to be at .124" to .1245" for a .125 hole. When I feel confident of where I'm at I'll sand the valves down accordingly.

Pete thank you for the advice.
I will try measuring again tomorrow the correct way and post my results.

I played around some more with the valve guides this past weekend.

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I had made an undercut, but it wasn't deep enough. It wouldn't snug up against a tapped hole.

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I chucked it back into the lathe and put an undercut in like I meant it.

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This yielded a much better result.

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Thank you all for looking
Kyle
 
Some day I will get around to building this. :) My boxer twin was basically modified edwards cylinders and heads. Dont forget to include the yahoo group.
 
Thank you Pete
I rechecked the reamer properly, it looks like its coming in at .1252". I think I'm going to target the valves for .1245" and move on. The bigger issue I have now is the bronze isn't the right type. I was reading Mayhughs radial and he recommended phospher bronze, I have bearing bronze which is much softer. Next week I'll order some 3/8" from mcmaster. No foul though at least I got some good practice.

Hey Jeff,
Your boxer twin sounds cool, do you have a build thread?
Necer seen the yahoo groups, do you have a link?

Thanks
Kyle
 

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