Kerzel Hit and Miss

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Hi Weez,

Awsome.
This engine on my build list. Been wanting to build one of this as it look like the real H&M Engines used on the farms in the good old days. Sadly have yet to see one of these engines running in Singapore or Malaysia. Have seen single piston Ruston Engines that last forever. No worry on the spare parts. There are specialist machineshops that will overhaul your engine with in-house made parts. Pistons, rings, gudgeon pins and even white metalling bearings.
 
Thanks for the comments guys. It is a relief to finally have it running. Now onto the governor parts. First up is the yolk. I found a chunk of 1 1/2" aluminum in the scrap bin just long enough to make it out of. After turning a small chucking register so that it will fit in my 3 jaw chuck I turned the OD and bored the ID.
CIMG5453.jpg

Without removing the piece from the chuck, I mounted the chuck on the rotary table on the mill and milled the flat parts of the ears of the yolk.
CIMG5456.jpg

Then rounded over both sides.
CIMG5460.jpg

And finished milling the rest of the profile.
CIMG5465.jpg

Then mounted the rotary table vertically in the mill. Turned the piece so that the ears were horizontal and drilled the pivot holes and drilled/tapped the hole for the set screw.
CIMG5467.jpg

Turned the piece so the ears were vertical and milled one slot. Turned again so the other ear was on top and milled the other slot.
CIMG5475.jpg

Put the chuck back on the lathe and parted off. I am not a big fan of interrupted parting cuts but it parted off without incident.
CIMG5478.jpg

And here is the finished piece.
CIMG5480.jpg
 
Lovely stuff Weez!
She runs sweet too! I remember getting callused finger and thumb from repeated flicking of the flywheel so it looks like you hit it right first time.
 
Now for the weight arm. First drilled the pivot hole, two 1/4" holes, and spot drilled the center point of the small rounded end.
CIMG5482.jpg

Milled the flat portion.
CIMG5484.jpg

Mounted on the rotary table in the mill using a pointed spud to locate on the small center point.
CIMG5486.jpg

Then rounded over the small nub.
CIMG5488.jpg

And then located on the pivot hole and rounded over the end.
CIMG5492.jpg

Here are the finished parts.
CIMG5494.jpg
 
Here are the weights. First drilled the holes for the pins that the springs connect to in the top and bottom of a piece of brass large enough for both weights.
CIMG5495.jpg

Then drill/countersink the mounting holes. I also center drilled the center of the piece.
CIMG5498.jpg

After screwing it to a chunk of aluminum I mounting it in the four jaw chuck on the lathe, locating on the center drilled spot. Then turned the OD.
CIMG5502.jpg

Drilled/bored the ID.
CIMG5506.jpg

Back in the mill I milled out the center portion.
CIMG5509.jpg

After Locktiting in the pins, here are the finished weights.
CIMG5512.jpg
 
Weez---I remember making all of those parts the first year I got into machining, and thinking how incredibly small they were. You're doing a great job.---Brian
 
Weez---I remember making all of those parts the first year I got into machining, and thinking how incredibly small they were. You're doing a great job.---Brian
Thank you Brian for the compliment. After making a few of Elmer's engines with quite tiny steam valve pieces, most of these pieces actually seem fairly large to me. Its funny on how one's perspective can change. Before I got into model engineering about two years ago, I had never seen a screw smaller than a 6-32. When I first used a 2-56 screw I was amazed at how tiny they were. Now after using many 2-56 screws in my various builds they seem average size and a 6-32 screw seems huge.

Hi Weez,
Very well done. You have made it look so easy.
Thank you Gus. Things are definitely getting easier for me. I owe it all to the members of this forum. Nearly everything I know about machining I learned from reading this forum.

Today's offering is the regulator arm. I drilled a series of holes around the outer perimeter of what will be the finished part.
CIMG5521.jpg

Then I used drill bits in each set of holes to locate the piece at the correct angle in the vice and milled down until the holes are gone. I repeat this for each face of the perimeter. If you have followed some of my builds you will see I have used this technique several times. It is becoming my favorite way of creating a piece with many different angles.
CIMG5533.jpg

And here is the finished part.
CIMG5540.jpg
 
Have not updated the thread for a while but I have been working on the engine. I finished up all of the governor parts. Here is the video of it running on hit and miss.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iRqz91L5Is[/ame]
 
Awesome work Weez!
I've been meaning to build the Kerzel for many years and have about 75% completed the modelling in 3D CAD to convert the plans to metric, but I never finished.... (w*rk and a new baby boy etc etc.)
Seeing your completed engine has inspired me to get to work on this again!
Lovely!
Are you going to paint her?
 
Hi Weez

Great little engine and the sound is terrific, like Simon you have given me the getupandgo to continue my build.

Rgds, Emgee
 
hello
great success Weez
 
Great job, starts easily and runs very well. There is a lot of satisfaction in building something and then seeing it run.

Paul.
 
Thank you everyone for the compliments. Simon and xpylonracer, I am glad I motivated you to continue with your projects. I still need to make the gas tank and a base for it. I am not going to paint it other than maybe painting the spokes of the flywheels.
 
Now for the muffler. First turn out half of the profile and drill a hole part way through.
CIMG5545.jpg

After parting off, I flipped it around and turned the other half.
CIMG5547.jpg

Then with the rotary table on the mill I drilled ten 1/16" holes around half of the perimeter.
CIMG5550.jpg

Here is the finish muffler along with an intake filter I made. The screen is out of a faucet aerator.
CIMG5551.jpg
 
Here are the gas tank mounts. The gas tank will be made of a 2" length of copper pipe. First in the mill I drill a 1/2" hole in the center and two 1/4" holes that will make up the inner radius of the bottom of the mount.
CIMG5556.jpg

Then into the 4 jaw chuck on the lathe centered on the 1/2" hole. I bored the hole open until I could just slip the copper pipe through the hole.
CIMG5558.jpg

Then mounted on the rotary table on the mill, I rounded the outside of the mount.
CIMG5560.jpg

After repeating for the second one, here are the finished mounts.
CIMG5564.jpg
 

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