Another Reason to buy or make a diamond tool holder

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No claim to have improved the procedure. Just wondering if with only lathe & mill, one could make an acceptable (not improved) holder along the same idea of the one that requires the square hole. Point being, I suspect many machinists don't have a way to make the square hole themselves.

The attached picture shows more closely what I'm thinking, as the largest component of the holder would be pretty much unchanged i.e., it would have a right-angle notch to fit the HSS.

No claims, just musing . . .

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Hello hmember

Your scheme will work and I put in a sketch seen along the toolbit .
Another possibility is to go the press way as shown on second picture.

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Exactly. And your pictures illustrate the concept nicely :bow:
 
My latest and most easy to make tangential tool holder.Sawing 30 *26*90,drilling a 14 mm hole for holding down,a 20 for flex ,a 6.7 mm hole tilted 15 degree and slitting with an angle grinder.
Insert intended toolbitt .Pressing 14 tons
Restore slit with angle grinder.
Drilling and threading for m8 clamping screw.
Make beatifull and finalize heigth .25.14 mm
Very fast and high clamping power

Kind regards

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Pictures from manufacture of a press formed tangential holder.
First is pressing with intended tool bit in place
Last is the tricky step.Eliminating spring back from pressing around tool bit without overdoing.
Not easy and a 50% scrap rate is OK until a smart guy describes how to do it.
If not done accurately tool will be a pest to use.
Clamping screw is there to clamp and not to deform holder


Kind regards

Niels

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The latest pressed TTH was tried with a homemade stick of carbide from a broken endmill,my beloved Crobalt and a piece of Swedish WKE45 HSS that by common consent is worlds best.
All three made nice surface on steel shown ,but carbide was nicest (Outher band )and WKE45 HSS (innermost band) was worst,but still useable.
The subject material was from a scrap container at a firm that makes fishing trawl vanes.Steel price matters

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What about making the toolholder in two halves, forming the groove in each, and joining them together by fasteners or braze?
 
Here are more pictures from my search for best cutting material.
First is from outher to inner

Selfmade carbide stick,Crobalt and WKE45 HSS.

Second and third picture

Cabide, Crobalt , WKE45 HSS and ASP 60 Powder HSS.

Visually there are not much differense and using my finger nail as roughness tester Crobalt is winner,but close.

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First picture shows my first CCMT 0903 holder plus start of a better looking brother.

The bottom of the new one was machined by the CCMT 09T3 holder in picture 2.
Depth of cut 1.2 mm;facing feed lowest possible on my Boxford and speed as fast as I dared ca 500 rpm.

The top was machined by a squeze manufactured tangential holders with a homesharpened carbide stick.Depth of cut as before and removed 7 and 4 mm and still cuts well.

Next picture is a close up.

Homebrewing tangential carbide is legal,works well and is cheap.

Last picture show finished CCMT holder .

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It is nice that the pressed tangential holder and carbide stick work as well as anything one can buy.
I needed to find an excuse for making a new CCMT holder for some ten Swiss Lamina CCMT 09T3 ,because I already have more than one of these amateur cutting tools.
I feel having more than one of any kind of tool is greed .
Luckyli economy gave a valid reason.
The ten swiss CCMT`s were 15 dollars on Ebay and gives me 40 perfect rounded tool corners.
There are many nice things in this world and then there are nice Swiss things.
The homemade carbide stick was made by a wiresparking friend from a broken endmill and needs a lot of grinding and honing to get under the spark eroded skin.
Max carbide stick length on my lathe is 65 mm and 40 of these are usable.The two times I have had to regrind was more than1 mm each.So unless Iscar ,Sandviken etc see the shining ligth and offer suitable preground and cornerrounded stick for less than say 10 dollars,homebrewed tangential carbide is not worth the effort.
HSS and cast Cobalt(Crobalt,Tantung ,Stellite etc) is quite another matter.
I will desribe my newest CCMT holderin a fresh thread.

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Niels is proceeding in a direction I have decided take - making massive tool holders that sit rigidly over the saddle. Yes, they are not quick change, but oh how nice they are!

My boring bar holder in action:

Made from 1" thick aluminum, drilled on the lathe to accept four boring bar diameters.

Here is very temporary lash-up.


Sometimes the best toolholder is no toolholder.

Bill
 
Hello Ron Ginger and Bill

The channel or slot is not cut but formed by pressing .
There are some pictures a little earlier in thread.
Do please make oneYourself,send us a picture and let us make a club to the abollishment of quick change holders.
If the server here is big enough a picture of Dog,bike, grandaugther and myself cannot harm.

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What angle is the bit tilted foward and is the bit ground at 30 degrees.

Thanks

John
 
Hello John

My first tangential was 15 degree tilt and that is what I recommend for first tryers.
Today I make them 12 degrees.The tool top plane angle relative to horizontal is 0 degree when I do cast iron or brass and approximately 25 degree for aluminium.
Steel somewhere in between.It is NOT very important.
There is a picture 27 of may where a homeground carbide stick is tilted 12 degrees and flat top eating mild steel.Still sharp and hungry.

kind regards
Niels
 
Here are pictures of mine, thanks for the help. I used a 3/16" broach which worked great to house the tool bit. This tool works better than the quick change tool post version that I made several years ago.

John Dunbar

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Hello John Dunbar

Very nice shape
Where did You get the broach and is it expensive?

Can You make a couple of Photos showing Broaching.

I have neither seen or tried it.
 
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