Kiwi Mk2 Engine
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vcutajar
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Yesterday I tried to shrink fit the valve guides into the cylinder head but after I singed my fingertips a couple of times I gave up. I don't need this aggro.
So today I pressed them into the head but before doing that I made a tool to make sure that they are pressed in straight. Photo 1 is showing the tool. I indicated the valve guide hole under the mill spindle. Then I clamped the thick part of the tool in a collet and put the valve guide in the stem of the tool. Pressed the valve guide in the head with the quill.
Photo 2 is showing both valve guides in the head. Photo 3 is showing the valves installed with the springs and photo 4 the bottom of the head with the valves.
So today I pressed them into the head but before doing that I made a tool to make sure that they are pressed in straight. Photo 1 is showing the tool. I indicated the valve guide hole under the mill spindle. Then I clamped the thick part of the tool in a collet and put the valve guide in the stem of the tool. Pressed the valve guide in the head with the quill.
Photo 2 is showing both valve guides in the head. Photo 3 is showing the valves installed with the springs and photo 4 the bottom of the head with the valves.
vcutajar
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Could not resist, so fixed the rocker arms to the head to see how they look (photo 1).
Also broached the timing gear that sits next to the cams.
Only thing that remains are the pushrods and the engine is complete. It still won't run because I still need to do the carb, ignition mechanism and the oil reservoir.
Also broached the timing gear that sits next to the cams.
Only thing that remains are the pushrods and the engine is complete. It still won't run because I still need to do the carb, ignition mechanism and the oil reservoir.
vcutajar
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Dave
Infact that is the reason I took so long to do it. The instructions were not very clear about it. Finally I decided that there is no need to index this gear but I will be indexing the gear on the cranckshaft that will mesh with this gear. The gear on the crankshaft still needs to be pinned to the shaft. I do not know if this makes any sense.
Vince
Infact that is the reason I took so long to do it. The instructions were not very clear about it. Finally I decided that there is no need to index this gear but I will be indexing the gear on the cranckshaft that will mesh with this gear. The gear on the crankshaft still needs to be pinned to the shaft. I do not know if this makes any sense.
Vince
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Hi Vince,
It's getting close now. Everything looks great. Usually unless the pitch of the gears is too coarse just by indexing a tooth one way or the other will get you in time or like was mentioned an offset key will fine tune it.
gbritnell
It's getting close now. Everything looks great. Usually unless the pitch of the gears is too coarse just by indexing a tooth one way or the other will get you in time or like was mentioned an offset key will fine tune it.
gbritnell
vcutajar
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Thanks Gents for the comments.
Honestly I do not know what an offset key is, but I am sure the Kiwi does not have it. From my limited knowledge it looks like it is fixed timing. Once you get the timing right, you pin the gear to the crankshaft.
Today I did the pushrods but I made a boo-boo on one of them. It's a little short. So I ordered a piece of 3/32" silver steel from the UK to remake it. I thought about using 3mm instead but it just does not look right.
Honestly I do not know what an offset key is, but I am sure the Kiwi does not have it. From my limited knowledge it looks like it is fixed timing. Once you get the timing right, you pin the gear to the crankshaft.
Today I did the pushrods but I made a boo-boo on one of them. It's a little short. So I ordered a piece of 3/32" silver steel from the UK to remake it. I thought about using 3mm instead but it just does not look right.
vcutajar
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Well after yesterdays turmoil about the new forum, I decided to continue with my build log here so that if anybody in the future would be looking for a Kiwi build log, at least they will find a complete log and not an unfinished one.
I haven't done a lot in the last couple of days. I assembled the engine and put it on a temporary fibre-board base. I also fitted the flywheel now that I have a brand new puller set from Amazon. This is where I found that the flywheel when tightened to the crankshaft will interfere with one of the crankcase webs (photo 1). Pulled the flywheel off and with a Dremel sanding drum cleaned up the offending web (photo 2).
Now I am waiting for the silver steel I ordered from the UK to arrive so that I can remake the short pushrod.
I haven't done a lot in the last couple of days. I assembled the engine and put it on a temporary fibre-board base. I also fitted the flywheel now that I have a brand new puller set from Amazon. This is where I found that the flywheel when tightened to the crankshaft will interfere with one of the crankcase webs (photo 1). Pulled the flywheel off and with a Dremel sanding drum cleaned up the offending web (photo 2).
Now I am waiting for the silver steel I ordered from the UK to arrive so that I can remake the short pushrod.
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vcutajar
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I was going to start work on the carb but decided instead to work on the ignition mechanism.
I will try to make it like the original 1960 ignition using contact points. Obviously the original Delco-Remy points are obsolete but I think I might have found an equivalent from the States (a Delco D111). I have already ordered it and will see if it is suitable when it arrives.
In the meantime I have done the ignition cam. Started from a piece of 0.5" round stock that came with the kit and turned the cam blank and drilled and reamed it 5mm (photo 1). I then clamped it eccentrically in the 4 jaw chuck (photo 2) and turned the cam (photo 3). I then drilled and tapped 3mm for the grub screw and then parted off the cam (photo 4).
I will try to make it like the original 1960 ignition using contact points. Obviously the original Delco-Remy points are obsolete but I think I might have found an equivalent from the States (a Delco D111). I have already ordered it and will see if it is suitable when it arrives.
In the meantime I have done the ignition cam. Started from a piece of 0.5" round stock that came with the kit and turned the cam blank and drilled and reamed it 5mm (photo 1). I then clamped it eccentrically in the 4 jaw chuck (photo 2) and turned the cam (photo 3). I then drilled and tapped 3mm for the grub screw and then parted off the cam (photo 4).
Vince I just had a look at the drawings for the carb and it looks an interesting challenge. The Kiwi is a great looking engine, and despite the fact that my intention is to stick with steam, your build is tempting me to follow in your footsteps
When I was a teenager I spent a fair bit of time working on pre-war British bikes, many with exposed valve gear. The Kiwi has a strong nostalgia factor as does the whole machining process for me.
Jan
When I was a teenager I spent a fair bit of time working on pre-war British bikes, many with exposed valve gear. The Kiwi has a strong nostalgia factor as does the whole machining process for me.Jan
vcutajar
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Yesterday received the contact points and they sent me an extra one for free (they must want to get rid of them). I will be using the arm only and I will also try to remove the tungsten tip from the other part and use it also (photo 1). I think the arm will work. Looks like it is the correct size.
Continued work on the ignition bracket carving it to size. Slit the hole (photo 2) and drilled and tapped for the 3mm screw that will tighten the bracket on the camshaft bush. Photo 3 is depicting the bracket on the camshaft bush.
Continued work on the ignition bracket carving it to size. Slit the hole (photo 2) and drilled and tapped for the 3mm screw that will tighten the bracket on the camshaft bush. Photo 3 is depicting the bracket on the camshaft bush.
dsquire
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vcutajar
for continuing your thread on HMEM. I am sure the members will appreciate it as well and will respect you for it. I would hope that with any future projects you would also allow HMEM to host them and make them available to members around the world.
Cheers
Don
vcutajar
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Progress in the last three days has been painfully slow. Wife and kids decided to go for a short holiday abroad and I, apart from work, have been doing the housework and babysitting the cats. Tomorrow I should be picking them up and life comes back to normal. Still I managed to slip in the workshop and do some things.
Drilled and tapped 4mm the bracket for the other contact point (photo 1). Managed to remove the other contact point so that I can reuse it on the Kiwi. Cut a piece from a long 4mm brass screw I had and silver soldered it to the contact point (photo 2). I used an old drill chuck to hold the brass thread and the contact point on a piece of brass. I used a 1.2mm tip in the torch for the soldering.
As the contact point was about 5mm diameter I put the brass thread with the newly soldered contact point in the lathe and using a green grinding wheel in the Dremel, I ground down the contact point (photo 3). At the moment the brass thread and contact point are immersed in a little white vinegar to clean it up.
Drilled and tapped 4mm the bracket for the other contact point (photo 1). Managed to remove the other contact point so that I can reuse it on the Kiwi. Cut a piece from a long 4mm brass screw I had and silver soldered it to the contact point (photo 2). I used an old drill chuck to hold the brass thread and the contact point on a piece of brass. I used a 1.2mm tip in the torch for the soldering.
As the contact point was about 5mm diameter I put the brass thread with the newly soldered contact point in the lathe and using a green grinding wheel in the Dremel, I ground down the contact point (photo 3). At the moment the brass thread and contact point are immersed in a little white vinegar to clean it up.
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