x2 bench fabrication.

I was going to start my engine building then I remembered I dont have a bench for my x2.

instead of trying to make one that might not be strong enough I thought I would ask the experts.
what should I build my x2 bench out of? wood? steel? fabricating it shouldnt be an issue once I know what materials are best.

and dimensions, should it be at waist level, or is a seated position better. ???



side note* what do I do with the red packing grease all over the machine? leave it on?

My X2 is sitting on a tool cabinet made from 16 gauge steel...

Wood is a suitable material if you are not going to be splashing coolant all over..
I made a bench for my C3 lathe from wood and I'm happy with it..Used 2*2 for the legs, 3/8 ply sides, 1-1/2* 3/4 for the rails and a 3/4 ply top..

As for height, depends on your health! I have chronic back problems so cant sit or stand for too long so its what is best for you..

If I get chance I'll post a picture of it..

side note* what do I do with the red packing grease all over the machine? leave it on?

Click to expand...

euwwwww get that stuff OFF lube with way oil .
Mine sat on my craftsman work bench for a long time now sits on a desk an old solid one.

get one of these and put a top on it



http://www.harborfreight.com/universal-tool-stand-46075.html
$30 bucks hard to beat.Tin

dont have harbor freight here so I searched our equivalent and came up with this

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8192015/Service-Carts/Universal-Tool-Stand

will check it out tomorrow! thank you for the suggestion

how do you suggest cleaning my x2?
varsol? do I really need to pull everything apart?

Enco has a sturdy looking work table on sale for $65

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=33942064&PMAKA=PK337-1272


It holds 1500 lbs, not that you need that for the X2.

Dave

that is pricy, but does look more useful with storage shelf under.
not sure I could get that locally either.

I am going to check out the one I linked tomorrow, they have a "no sale is final" so I can return it if needed.
but should work out well I think. I hope the top is wide enough.

Micheal, Yes you have to remove and thoroughly clean the machine. Re lubricate it with suggested oils and greases in the manual and also adjust the gibs.

Barry G

Here’s a picture of a workbench that I built. It’s about 3’ x 5’. The top is 3/4” plate steel. The underside is reinforced with 5” channel, and the legs are constructed out of 5” x 5” x 3/8” angle-bar.

It’s heavy, but it will safely support a few tons.

that is a bench to drool over! :bow:

I picked up two of these when they were on at 50%
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...astercraft+Heavy-Duty+Workbench.jsp?locale=en
I figure one for the mill and one for the lathe.
Regards,
Gerald.

I have an Enco mill / drill which is as heavy or heavier than your X2. It sits on a wood cabinet I built to hold it 16 years ago. It is as sturdy as the day I built it and the drawers are mighty handy for storing accessories, wrenches, cutters, etc. It's made mostly from 3/4" plywood. The castors are also nice for when I need to move it around.

Chuck

As far as height goes, I think sitting at the machine is a dangerous practice. Its a lot harder to get out of the way when something goes flying ! Don't worry, sooner or later it will. We've all done an "oops" at least once.

my hunt still continues, looking for something that I can stand and work.

took the x2 almost completely apart. going to clean it all down.
yuk that stuff is nasty!

when I re oil it can I use any oil? the manual doesnt say exactly what to use.
and I am not sure where I can get way oil any canadians can help?

Michael,
I don't have an idea about your actual location in Canada, So it's pretty hard to make a good recommendation about where to obtain way oil. Depending on exactly where you live, It can be pretty tough stuff to find. But I'd do whatever it took to get a proper way oil like Vactra no. 2. And you may as well order a gallon since it is tough to get. Due to shipping regulations, It's going to be ground freight only if you live outside a larger city where you could pick it up in person.

I'd agree about the need to strip any mill down to it's basic sub assemblys for a cleaning. A good bath in something like diesel along with a paint brush to get into all the areas works pretty good. Depending on your amount of usage, A yearly strip down and cleaning is a good idea anyway for the X,Y axis table and feed screws. Your mill will work far smoother, And be accurate far longer by doing so. All this hobby type equipment isn't properly cleaned before assembly at the factory, And there's just enough dirt and grinding dust left on the machine to cause some severe wear problems later. That red grease is a preservitive that prevents rust till the end user gets it. It most definately NOT a proper way lubricant. After reassembly? You will need to tram that mill. There's many posts about the proper way to do so here on this forum. That's also not an optional step.

It doesn't take long for mill tooling to start adding up. Maybe consider something like what are designed to be bolted to the sides of mechanics rollaway toolboxes? Your going to need all the drawer and storage space you can get. Those are generaly about 30" high with at least 7 drawers in them. I'd disagree with having tooling stored in the open. Having to preclean collets ect before you can even use them would be a major PITA. Given a bit of time, It's not hard to end up with more weight in tooling than your mill actaly weighs.

One further thought. If your X-2 isn't a R-8 taper, I'd highly reccommend the conversion kit from Little Machineshop in California. R-8 is so comman for tooling that the conversion will pay for itself in no time just in the cheaper and much more avalible R-8. And the R-8 is much easier to release than the MT-3 tapers are. More than likely if you ever go to a larger mill, It would also have that R-8 taper too.

Some thoughts anyway.

Pete

Hi Michael,

Travers tools carry way oil but you need to buy huge quantities and it is $180!
When i need to buy i get it off ebay from a guy in the states.
He sells it in smaller quantities.
This is his sellers id : bluechipmachineshop
No relation blah, blah, blah...

he does not have anything for sale at the moment, i checked...

He also has a website that you can buy off:
http://www.bluechipmachineshop.com/bc_store/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=6

I have been using his oils for 2 years now and like them.
They are Mobil products so you can trust them!

These guys also sell it:
http://www.kbctools.com/can/ItemSearch.cfm

Hope this helps a bit!

thank you guys for your responses!
sorry I am in Toronto.

I checked out that link seems like I could afford his prices

I see what you mean about the taper shaft! how do I take it off
I take the long bolt off the top, then it says with a plastic hammer hit to release the taper.
I threaded the long bolt in a few threads and hit it but its not budging. am I doing it right?

Buy a gallon it will last for years enco has it on sale on a fairly regular basis.



http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=60002151&PMPXNO=1965951&cm_re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults

Tin

Speedy said:

thank you guys for your responses!
sorry I am in Toronto.

I checked out that link seems like I could afford his prices

I see what you mean about the taper shaft! how do I take it off
I take the long bolt off the top, then it says with a plastic hammer hit to release the taper.
I threaded the long bolt in a few threads and hit it but its not budging. am I doing it right?

Click to expand...

If yours is like mine the taper is coated with rustproofing. I found another rod the same size as the draw bar and used it to drive out the tapered fitting with a ball peen hammer. I then cleaned the taper on the fitting and the inside of the spindle. Since then all I had to do was loosen the draw bar, tap it with the plastic hammer, then finish undoing the draw bar. Mine has the M3 taper.
Regards,
Gerald.

Uhh, I'd strongly suggest supporting from each side of the spindle down against the table before winding up and just wacking anything. BEARING DO NOT LIKE THAT. Don't believe me? That's fine too, It's your equipment. But you might want to Google something like "Precision bearings and impact shock". I think you'll be very suprised just how little force it takes to brinel bearings. I'm not pointing fingers at anyone, But the general lack of actual information about what you can and can't do with bearings on machine tools is something that really needs to be addressed. You'd be far better off to somehow press that MT taper out. And yes I well know X2 type bearings are a long ways from ABEC 7 types. But it's rather pointless to destroy bearings due to lack of knowledge.

I've craned in bearings far larger than what could be installed with muscle power. There always handled and installed like there made of glass.

Pete

You are right Pete. I realize after I had done it that I should have braced the bearings. Fortunately after cleaning everything up all it now takes is a light tap with a plastic faced hammer. It has been a long time since I have worked with mills that didn't have a power draw bar and ATC.
Regards,
Gerald.