Drilling Advice
- Thread starter Piecat
- Start date
Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
I'm not sure what you mean by "diagonal holes." Two holes perpendicular to the shaft, 180 degrees apart?
Without a mill, drilling holes with relative accuracy to each other is probably going to require a jig of some sort. Without knowing more about your requirements, I'm a bit hesitant to suggest anything. If it is what I think it is... how about drilling one hole through a tube with a 1/2" bore that will accept your stock. Then, insert the stock into the tube and use the previously drilled holes to guide the drill.
Without a mill, drilling holes with relative accuracy to each other is probably going to require a jig of some sort. Without knowing more about your requirements, I'm a bit hesitant to suggest anything. If it is what I think it is... how about drilling one hole through a tube with a 1/2" bore that will accept your stock. Then, insert the stock into the tube and use the previously drilled holes to guide the drill.
Make up a "V" block with a pilot hole (say 3mm diameter) - use this as a drill jig.
If you clamp the bar in the vice you can set the jig at either end using a spirit level / protractor / inclinometer to the jig to get the angular relationship you are looking for without taking it out of the vice.
Of course this may be more trouble than the job and you might need someone with a mill to do it for you - but once you've got it you can apply it to the same problem over and over again.
You can follow the pilot hole with larger sizes as required.
2c
Ken
If you clamp the bar in the vice you can set the jig at either end using a spirit level / protractor / inclinometer to the jig to get the angular relationship you are looking for without taking it out of the vice.
Of course this may be more trouble than the job and you might need someone with a mill to do it for you - but once you've got it you can apply it to the same problem over and over again.
You can follow the pilot hole with larger sizes as required.
2c
Ken
pkastagehand
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Piecat said:
A V-block or pair of them with the rod clamped in them would keep the rod in the same position as you turn it end for end on the drill press table. That would keep them aligned if they don't have to be at an angle one to the other.
Paul
peatoluser
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I have a peatol (tiag) lathe and this is how I would do it.
I have a V block that I made by using a countersink held in the chuck to machine a vee in a block bolted to the cross slide. (clocked in square to the lathe axis)
this means that round bar clamped in it can be cross drilled reasonably accurately.
The only way I have of setting it at an angle is with one of those metal protractors with the thin 6 inch rules.
using a 3/16 slot drill , machine a flat on the bar then drill 1/8 ( or drill and ream with a hand reamer held in a collet/ 4 jaw)
fit , say, a 4 inch length of 1/8 drill rod in the hole , transfer the block to my surface plate i.e a piece of old granite worktop, turn the bar end for end and clock the 1/8 bar parallel.
now repeat for drilling hole in other end.
if it was more important that the holes be parallel to each other then i would file an angular setting block and clamp it to the cross slide and set the block against this.
if your lathe is too big or lacks a tee slotted cross slide for this method, then I'd be looking to bolt a 3/4 or 1 inch square bar in the toolpost (in line with the lathe axis) and drill a 1/2 hole through this. Remove and drill and tap a couple of holes for clamping screws and the rest as above. At least you'll have a graduated compound slide to set the angles!
yours
peter
I have a V block that I made by using a countersink held in the chuck to machine a vee in a block bolted to the cross slide. (clocked in square to the lathe axis)
this means that round bar clamped in it can be cross drilled reasonably accurately.
The only way I have of setting it at an angle is with one of those metal protractors with the thin 6 inch rules.
using a 3/16 slot drill , machine a flat on the bar then drill 1/8 ( or drill and ream with a hand reamer held in a collet/ 4 jaw)
fit , say, a 4 inch length of 1/8 drill rod in the hole , transfer the block to my surface plate i.e a piece of old granite worktop, turn the bar end for end and clock the 1/8 bar parallel.
now repeat for drilling hole in other end.
if it was more important that the holes be parallel to each other then i would file an angular setting block and clamp it to the cross slide and set the block against this.
if your lathe is too big or lacks a tee slotted cross slide for this method, then I'd be looking to bolt a 3/4 or 1 inch square bar in the toolpost (in line with the lathe axis) and drill a 1/2 hole through this. Remove and drill and tap a couple of holes for clamping screws and the rest as above. At least you'll have a graduated compound slide to set the angles!
yours
peter
Thank you all who have answered my question. I learned something from each response.
I may have hit on an idea of mounting two identical V-blocks on a strip of flat bar( slightly wider than the V-blocks), spaced about 9 inches apart. This can form the basis of a tool that can also incorporate a few applicable ideas from your postings.
Thanks again! - Piecat
I may have hit on an idea of mounting two identical V-blocks on a strip of flat bar( slightly wider than the V-blocks), spaced about 9 inches apart. This can form the basis of a tool that can also incorporate a few applicable ideas from your postings.
Thanks again! - Piecat
