Hi, I've been slowly progressing with my Webster build for a several months now and I'm up to the stage where it gets a bit more challenging, the valve gear.
This is my first engine build and I'm learning heaps from reading others' posts here on HMEM.
My build is a little different as I'm going to use bearings rather than bushes for the big end and the mains. I'm also planning to use a magneto? ignition system off an old line trimmer that I bought from a recycling centre for $5.
I have already made the base and other larger parts including the cylinder, head, con-rod piston and crank.
To lap in the cylinder bore, I made a lap from brass and it can be expanded by tightening up two grub screws that force open the the slit that runs along the length of the lap. I used diamond paste with the lap that I rotated slowly in the drill press, while moving the cylinder up and down, using progressively finer paste with the lap until I had a pretty smooth finish inside the bore.
The crank is silver soldered together. Until this build, I'd always used 2-5% silver solder when soldering up larger mechanical parts or copper pipe. However, I soon found out that this percentage solder appears to not be suitable for finer work as it does not flow as readily as 45% that I ended up getting hold of to do the crank. I left about 0.10mm (0.004") clearance between the parts of the crankshaft for the solder to flow into.
This is my first engine build and I'm learning heaps from reading others' posts here on HMEM.
My build is a little different as I'm going to use bearings rather than bushes for the big end and the mains. I'm also planning to use a magneto? ignition system off an old line trimmer that I bought from a recycling centre for $5.
I have already made the base and other larger parts including the cylinder, head, con-rod piston and crank.
To lap in the cylinder bore, I made a lap from brass and it can be expanded by tightening up two grub screws that force open the the slit that runs along the length of the lap. I used diamond paste with the lap that I rotated slowly in the drill press, while moving the cylinder up and down, using progressively finer paste with the lap until I had a pretty smooth finish inside the bore.
The crank is silver soldered together. Until this build, I'd always used 2-5% silver solder when soldering up larger mechanical parts or copper pipe. However, I soon found out that this percentage solder appears to not be suitable for finer work as it does not flow as readily as 45% that I ended up getting hold of to do the crank. I left about 0.10mm (0.004") clearance between the parts of the crankshaft for the solder to flow into.
