1 / 8 Scale Galloway Build

Hi

I thought I would just start a thread on an 1/8 scale Galloway build. That way folks could share everything on one thread.

I am about a day or so from taking everything apart and starting to paint the model. As I have mentioned in previous posts, I have redone all but a few of the drawings in 3D Alibre. I am working with the current owners to take over the drawings once I have the engine running from the new drawings. They will be on 11 x 17 and in general be drawn 2 to 1 so you can see the part. With luck this should be by May. I am going to focus on getting the model completed and running first then go through and clean up the prints. I can only assume you would be able to get a set from the current owners after I turn them over to them.

I will start by posting my latest pictures and as time permits I will post construction pictures from the start of the project.

I do not get on the internet often but will check in here whenever I do.

Bob

Ok
I guess I need to learn how to post more than one picture at a time. Which I just figured out.
Just a little info on the pictures. The block that the model is mounted on I used so I could get back to to any demension and keep everything squared up. All the base machining was done on that block. The casting could be removed and replaced. The disk is a small flywheel mock up so I can fit everything and see what is what without the flywheel being in the way.

Bob

Looks really nice and thanks for sharing. I've a 1/4 scale I'd like to start building but need to get a few other projects done first. I'll be looking forward to any updates.

Craig
.

Hi Bob,
I am currently working on the same engine. Having built all of the other scale Galloways with their drawing problems I didn't expect anything less from this one and I wasn't disappointed. For instance, the connection rod. The dimension for the mounting lug on the big end say .200 wide while next to it the bronze bearing cap also says .200 wide but they are not drawn the same in the picture. The mounting lug is thinner and when you take the dimensions for the 1/4 and divide it in half they don't match up. What did you use?
gbritnell

George

See attached pictures. I added two parts with JB weld to make the casting "correct" and used the drawing demensions of .328. This was suggested by another builder.

bob

Hi

For those with running engines any scale Galloway. I am about to build the gas tank. It is above the mixer. I am going to have a shut off on the tank. During runing does the mixer leak gas or flood the engine due to the tank being above the mixer?

Thanks

Bob

George

Not sure I answered your question. After I fixed the base casting all the demensions on the width of the connecting rod big end are OK. I made mine .232 per the drawing. I redid the connecting rod to a round rod.

Bob

Bob, I really like the look of that block
is it shop made?
what are the dimensions?
it looks extremely versatile
yours
peter

Hi Bob,

I have a 1/4 Galloway that I built. I've had no problems with the fuel tank being above the mixer.


My hat is off to you guys who build the 1/8 scale Galloway.


Regards,

Chuck

Chuck,
The 1/8th Galloway doesn't have the same type of carb as it's larger brothers. The large engines have a Lunkenheimer replica with a control valve inside them. This is for shutting the fuel off. The 1/8th just has a small vacuum type mixer carb that if put below the fuel level will leak through the needle valve because of the head of fuel in the tank. If the fuel valve were to be turned on and the engine started right away then the carb could be adjusted for the fuel flow from the tank, but should the engine stall then the fuel would leak through the needle valve and out the bottom of the carb.
Bob,
No, you didn't answer my question. I am attaching a PDF of the print in question. All the red circles represent erroneous dimensions either by themselves or when compared to a 1/4 scale engine.
The question I had was in regard to the connecting rod where it meets the brass bearing on the big end. You will notice that dimension is .200 while right next to it the upper brass bearing is also dimensioned as .200 but are not drawn the same width. When taking the dimensions from the 1/4 engine they don't scale by half to what is shown on this sheet.
If you glance at the other circled items you will see that they are blatant errors that were never fixed like the clevis for the pushrod has a 2-56 thread while the pushrod has an 6-32 thread and the thickness of the pushrod is not listed. Over on the rocker arm bracket it has a bored hole of .421 while the O.D. is .335.
I know all of these things can be solved but why should the builder be burdened with hours of calculating while trying to build an engine that's been around for some time.
gbritnell

Hi

I am down to the home stretch and I am looking for a demension in order to build a case. As I have mentioned I am going to build the saw rig so the case needs to be big enough for it. I figured out the length of the saw rig from pictures. I cannot get a width.

Could someone tell me the width across the wheels for the 1/3 scale cart ? From that I can figure the 1/8 scale.

Best would be someone with the saw rig respond with the actual demensions.

Thanks
Bob

Hi
Well I finished it up on Saturday and tried to run it. Got it to run for about 30 seconds and it was 9pm. Sunday I adjusted my Lunk mixer spring and the gov spring and off it went (with a whole three days to spare before leaving for NAMES). Went through three tanks of fuel. It still runs rough but needs break in and more spring adjustments. It is fine for NAMES and I need to build a temp base today. Later needs striping etc.

I will get my build pictures together over the next month or so.

Bob

Hi ,All I just finished my 1/8 Galloway and I'm having trouble getting it started .It is not getting gas .My Question is what size music wire should be used for intake valve?I will try to include a Photo.

Zneb

Nice looking model. Nice to see one more. Which drawings did you have? If you have the ones I sold to ministeam then the size is on the drawings, at least it should be, it is I just pulled up the sheet.
It is .008, .350 long, on a .125 arbor 9 wraps. Length is sized at assembly to fit under your retainer. That is what is on mine. It must be very lite weight and not rub on the interior of the rocker arm holder. Check for clearance.

Do you get fuel on your finger if you choke the mixer?

There have been several mixers used on this model. This may also be
an issue in your model ie the size of the venturi.

Are you comeing to NAMES?

When I get home maybe we can talk on the phone.

They do run, one model in Iowa has been running for a number of years, it was the first. Mine and George Britnells were running last NAMES. And I have been told there is one on the East coast running.
The one in Iowa uses the mixer per the drawings, mine uses a working Lunk type mixer with a valve, George's uses a modified venturi mixer similar to the drawings.

Bob

Hi, Thanks for coming back .No I'm not going to NAMES .Getting to old .I bought the castings from Liney I think about 2 years ago ..There were so many Errers on the drawings that came with it that I thought The Spring Size May Be wrong too..I get fuel on finger when I prime .It also will drip Because the tank is kind of high for that type of mixer.On My drawings it shows a bushing Placed in bottom opening of mixer to make it smaller is that correct..I made the Ignitor over 5 times and could't get it to work so I gave up and put a spark plug in back with a hall senser..Probably a big mistake....I have nice compression But for some reason It don't seem to be taking in fuel..I made 2 other engines from bar stock and didn't have any trouble getting them to run ..I had them running at a local tractor show and I guy offered me $1000 bucks for one so I sold It .Thats when I bought The Galloway.castings.I won't give up ......

zneb

Yes the prints were bad. I redid the entire engine using Alibre and then built it from those prints, every part with one exception. I made a working Lunk style mixer as should be on it, and is on the other three versions of the engine. I sold the prints to Liney. The engine performs well and I am pleased with it, today it ran from start of show to end with one stop that I made to oil it.

With a venturi type mixer you need to get the tank down so the top of the tank is not higher than the needle. Depending on how well the mixer you use draws you may also need a check valve in the fuel line.
Yes you need a venturi in that mixer to increase air speed to draw fuel and atomize the fuel.
At NAMES last year, along with my running engine there was another working 1/8 scale with a spark plug in the Ignitor space. It used a cdi ignition firing from a hall effect pickup. It also had a venturi type mixer but different than the one in supplied drawings. His fuel tank was built into the base casting with the fuel line coming out the front to the mixer.

I may have some pictures of that model, but not with me.

Here are some links to George's engine build

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/1-8th-galloway-another-one-17144/

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f14/1-8th-galloway-finally-running-17437/

Bob

Thanks So Much Bob ,for all the Info .Back out to the shop and start over .I'll keep in touch I'm sure I'll need more advise..Gary H

Well I redid the fuel tank ,"Lowered It" Put in check valve ,Made new spring for intake valve." The right size" and rechecked timing .When I spin with make shift starter it will fire and try hard to run by itself but won"t take off on it"s own.I think the mixer is off somewhere so I'm going to make one of My own .Like I used on My bar stock Engines.I checked with Liney "PM Research" and they have a 1/8 scale but it's not for Galloway Engines .Any ideas would be helpful ..Thanks Gary H

Zneb

I think you are on track with the mixer. George used a modified version of the mixer. Not sure what you mean by not take off. Does it flood or fuel starve? Most likely fuel starve, and you need a stronger venturi. I am in my house now and not in the shop. I think I have a drawing of the mixer George used on his and will try and shoot you a copy. His ran just fine. There is at least one other I know of using the mixer from the prints and it runs ok although he may have restricted the air flow. Did you try covering the air intake a bit ie choke it? Does run any better that way?

Bob

Hi bob,
Well I still can't get it to run .I think now its getting to much gas.I'm wondering if My drawing are right on the size on the intake mixer .Mine say drill 1/8 and tape 3/48..Is that what you guys are using.I also found a leak in the head and ordered a new one. {working on that now}.Thanks Gary H