New compound slide

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woodnut

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Hi All...

I just picked up this 5" x 12" compound slide from Busy Bee and I am wondering what I should clean it with to get rid of all the packing oil/grease?

And what should I use to re-oil it when I put it back together? Since I am just learning all this might as well do it right.

CompundSlide1.jpg


Its just a cheap Chinese one: http://www.busybeetools.com/products/MILLING-TABLE-5IN.-X-12IN..html

Thanks

John.

 
If your nervous about rust....I'd use mineral spirits.

tough on the skin of your hands though.

If you can completely submerge it in a large enough container, Simple Green.

Let it soak by itself for a half hour or so and remove and wipe dry. Then rinse it off with either rubbing alcohol or use automotive "drygas". Or a good dousing in WD40. This step prevents surface rust from forming.

You should be good to go.

Be careful with any of these steps and read any and all cautionary labels on the products....and be careful!

That part was your mother talking ;D
Dave

 
John, I use paper towels to remove the bulk of the grease if it's not dried on too bad, and finish up with small pieces of paper towels dampened with some mineral spirits or turpentine.

Its best to do this out side or in an open garage with plenty of ventilation. leave the saturated towels out doors to dry completely until they become non- flammable.

Strait non detergent 30WOil will do, way oil (if you have some) is better.

-MB
 
Hi,
WD40 if you have it, white spirit, Kerosene or even window cleaner. They all work.
 
I use this stuff:

solvent.jpg


In this cleaner:

PartsCleaner.jpg


Both were purchased at a local auto parts store for a minimal cost.

These were originally bought back when I was restoring antique small engines but
they are used regularly in my hobby machine shop these days.

Any time I use cutting oil in a machining process, the finished part gets a quick
pass through the parts cleaner to remove the oil.

It also works great for dissolving "dragon grease" on new parts and tools.

Just keep it away from the running machines where chips may be flying!
That solvent IS highly flammable!

Rick
 
rake60 said:
I use this stuff:

(Deleted)

Both were purchased at a local auto parts store for a minimal cost.

These were originally bought back when I was restoring antique small engines but
they are used regularly in my hobby machine shop these days.

Any time I use cutting oil in a machining process, the finished part gets a quick
pass through the parts cleaner to remove the oil.

It also works great for dissolving "dragon grease" on new parts and tools.

Just keep it away from the running machines where chips may be flying!
That solvent IS highly flammable!

Rick
Click to expand...

Rick, if that's like the stuff I've used in the past, you don't want to get it on your hands. It will leech out every last gram of body oil leaving your hands as dry as a popcorn f@rt!

Chuck
 
cfellows said:
Rick, if that's like the stuff I've used in the past, you don't want to get it on your hands. It will leech out every last gram of body oil leaving your hands as dry as a popcorn f@rt!

Chuck
Click to expand...

You're right about that!
That's why I have a box of those blue nitrile gloves in the shop.
The solvent won't go through the gloves but if you get a hole in a glove
it holds the solvent against your skin. That can make you miserable for days!

Rick
 
Before Simple Green.
2012-01-27_22-32-04_83.jpg


After 1 hour and a good brushing in Simple Green.
2012-01-28_17-56-24_505.jpg


All done bare handed. It does tend to dry my skin, but nothing like parts cleaner or mineral spirits.

Dave
 
I've used naphtha successfully in the past. Use nitrile gloves, paper towels and disposable chip brushes.

And ventilation....lots of ventilation.
 
Woodnut : looks like the degreaser questions has been well covered. if you disassemble it (recommended) make sure you debur the parts. as far as lube use way oil same as you would use on the ways of a lathe of milling machine .
6000215-11.jpg

Tin
 
Thanks everyone. Lots of great tips as usual. :bow:

It's to cold outside to clean the pieces so I will go with the simple green way so I can do this inside in the shop. I have a box of 100 latex gloves to protect my baby hands.
So it looks like today's fun will be taking it apart, cleaning everything and then deburing any parts that need it. I can get EEZ WAY OIL from KBC TOOLS 30WT for $24.00 a gal, not sure if that's a good price or not, but the store is close to were I work. I am sure a gal will last me the next 40 years or so.

Thanks again.

John
 
Don't forget the dry off and the WD40.....I don't wan to see any rust on the pretty table! ;D

I wouldn't mix alloys either. iron with iron. ect.


Dave
 
Hi John. Congratulations on a bargain. That Chinese gear is pretty good nowdays. I'm open to critisism on the subject of lubrication but as I have an abundance of chainsaw bar oil I use that and have had no problems
 
Woodnut,

Don't put painted items in the SG it's will take the paint off

See my southbend overhaul thread for more information !

Dave
 
Good to know.

Just got back from the store and haven't started just yet.

Thanks

John.
 
Got her stripped down, cleaned up, deburred and put back together.

The Simple Green worked great, the little bit that I got on my hands so far haven't dried them out. I didn't have anything big enough to soak this piece so I just soak paper towel in the Simple Green (I got the Heavy Duty stuff), diluted it 1:5 for medium strength.
There wasn't a lot of grease or oil on it or in the ways, a couple of wipes and she was clean. Deburred the edges and used some 3in1 oil to put her back together. I will get the Way Oil tomorrow.
All ready it moves better then out of the box. The bottom slide was sticking every 3/4 turn of the handle, nice and smooth now. The top slide worked pretty good out of the box and works great after.

For $130 and a couple of hours clean up, so far I like it. If I have more time tonight I will bolt it down to the drill press and try it out on some scrap.

John
 
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