Recent content by pickleford75

Wow! Beautiful work as always Terry!

Hello all, I just have a question. I'm in the process of building the Hodgson 9 cylinder radial and would like to know if anyone knows of a source for the #43 drill needed for the crankshaft, on the MSC the only sell the in quantity's of ten. Is there a source to buy them individually?

I have built the PM Research #1 mill engine and found that the castings, prints and kit was of very good quality. The kit came with all necessary hardware, bar stock and gasket material to build the entire engine.

Great to see you back at it.... I'm doing the same thing on my Hodgson radial project I started about 10 years ago :hDe: great work on your peewee v4 looking forward to seeing it completed.

12L14 leaded is very acceptable for IC cylinders.... that what is specified in Lee Hodgens radials which use 2024 aluminum for pistons

I've used citric acid on all of my soldered parts with great success.... cheap to buy and very safe to use.... just need to be a bit more patient.

Yes it is 45mm... good eye

Well JCSteam I know you can do it, and as for whomever told you that you can't build anything without plans.... this is what I built without any plans... so make sure you prove them wrong :cool:

Unfortunately I know EXACTLY how you feel had the same problem on my Lee Hodgkins radial build.... got to the last hole for the cylinders after replacing the tap for the second time, and SNAP broke one off... I guess after 140ish holes it was inevitable. I was using the spiral taps they still...

Charles is correct... the steam does in fact hold the valve against the surface... most importantly for a "D" valve to function correctly it cannot be attached to the valve rod... they "float" the first picture is from my gauge 1 locomotive i built and the second is from a stationary engine i...

That is a really nice engine... unique and well made... the buzzing sound is the current spike in the field windings of the solenoid... i think it adds the overall appeal of the engine great job!

one possibility is that if the spark plug has a compressible washer on it after tightening and loosening it and then re-tightening it again the ground electrode may have ended up in a different clock position then before causing interference that was not there before.... just a thought

Great job! Now that is an interesting valve gear.

What type of distributor are you using... is it per the print?

Silicone would be a better choice less friction but I've had better luck making them out of Rulon