Recent content by Journeyman

Don't think it will make it any easier to build. The drawings are not really a metric conversion just a direct conversion of the measurements. A true metric drawing would probably go with 22mm bore x 32mm stroke rather than the 22.23 bore and 31.76mm stroke! John

It is worth remembering that fluorescent tubes lose brightness quite quickly, very noticeable when replacing just one tube and the others are a few years old. Another point is that whilst the LED tubes may seem lower output they are in fact directional in that the light goes down so none wasted...

Have a look *** HERE *** for trepanning a flywheel, also shows use of three jaw for holding same. John

You don't really need to cut the HSS blanks but I quite often have different shaped tools ground on opposite ends. For example brass one end (negative top rake) and ally the other end (steep positive rake). Worth having a trawl round the interweb , lots of YouTube videos and plenty of advice...

Brian, the engine needs to be very free running. Any oil left in the cylinder will burn and gum everything up. Jan Ridders says that it should spin easily and I quote from his website: "Some friction tests with cold engine and without the flame: - Push the flywheel...

I had similar problem, on mine the hole had to go through all the fins and drifted off-line. I made the hole larger and did indeed put a small brass bush at either end, much less friction. John

Started off with cast iron for both valve and piston but with all the condensation it quickly rusted/gummed up. Changed both the valve and piston to brass which is an improvement. Jan reccomends graphite but I never tried this. The cylinder is stainless (no idea what grade I happened to have a...

Brian, I did one of these a few years ago. It works but was very tempremental to get going. If I can do it I'm sure yours will be up and running in no time. Good luck with the build. My effort ***HERE*** a rather poor video I'm afraid... John

Brian, I can recommend the various books by James G. Rizzo about Stirling and other hot air engines. plenty of plans and info on sizes etc. I think his first book was "Modelling Stirling and Hot Air Engines" published in 1985 so may be a bit hard to find copies now. Made my first engine from one...

Don't think you could make an adaptor: Small end of B16 is 14.52mm and small end of JT33 is 14.25mm. This might be a silly question but are you sure the spindle has a male end could it be the end of a morse taper arbor that is firmly into the spindle? If it is a JT33 end you can get *** THIS ***...

If it is YOUR domain you surely already know everything about it as you have to provide the information to the registrar;) If you just type "whois" into a Google search it will give you a list of many search options. Don't believe everything you see though it is quite easy to get a domain...

You are over-thinking it a bit:) Just use 2 drawbars one M12 and the other .5"whit, it is only a matter of a few seconds to swap them over. Failing that it is easy to change the arbour on the drill chuck to M12. I had this problem with my smaller mill, supplied with 3/8"whit drawbar but most of...

There is nothing intrinsically wrong with the Myford and for an 80 year old design it has lasted pretty well. My particular lathe was a 1950's one it had been somewhat mis-used before I got it but could still do accurate work, you just had to take into account the worn bed and sloppy leadscrews...

Having had an old Myford and currently using a WM250 (Grizzly G0602Z) I think Myfords are vastly over rated and usually vastly over priced:hDe: If you want "old iron" look at Southbend where you are but unless you know your stuff (or know someone who does) it is easy to buy something less than...

Have a look *** HERE *** Bazmak makes toolmakers clamps, always useful and a nice simple starter project. John