Poppin Flame Licker Plans
- Thread starter rake60
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rake60
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Beautiful Work Jack!
Cast Iron is the best material for the flame lickers in my experience.
I've tried aluminum and brass. Their in my scrap boxes. I was never
able to get them to run.
McMaster Carr sells Grey Cast Iron rod in 12" Lengths.
1" Dia X 12" long lists at $8.93 It's their stock number 8909K23
Their site is: http://www.mcmaster.com/
It cuts like chalk but it is very abrasive on tooling.
Cast Iron is the best material for the flame lickers in my experience.
I've tried aluminum and brass. Their in my scrap boxes. I was never
able to get them to run.
McMaster Carr sells Grey Cast Iron rod in 12" Lengths.
1" Dia X 12" long lists at $8.93 It's their stock number 8909K23
Their site is: http://www.mcmaster.com/
It cuts like chalk but it is very abrasive on tooling.
J
JW
Guest
You hadn't ought to have let some guy dictate what you can post on your own web site. 
rake60
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Looking good Jack!
Please keep us posted as you go.
If those bearings are sealed you might find that you need to remove the
seals to get it to turn free enough.
If anyone else wants to give it a go I've documented my build on my
personal web site. There just might be a link to the plans there....
http://www.rake60.com/poppin.htm
Please keep us posted as you go.
If those bearings are sealed you might find that you need to remove the
seals to get it to turn free enough.
If anyone else wants to give it a go I've documented my build on my
personal web site. There just might be a link to the plans there....
http://www.rake60.com/poppin.htm
rake60
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It's really coming together there Jack. Looks perfect!
Are those 2-56 hex head bolts?
Where did you find them?
I can get 2-56 allen heads at a local hobby shop, but I've never been
able to find hex heads without having to pay as much for shipping as the
cost of the bolts.
Another note: The plans call for a drip oiler at the back of the cylinder.
Mine doesn't have that and it runs fine. In fact, any lubrication and it will
not run at all. I've tried everything from the Marvel Mystery Oil as the plans
state to dry graphite. Every time I have to rip it apart and clean back out
to nothing. Then it will start easily and run fine.
Are those 2-56 hex head bolts?
Where did you find them?
I can get 2-56 allen heads at a local hobby shop, but I've never been
able to find hex heads without having to pay as much for shipping as the
cost of the bolts.
Another note: The plans call for a drip oiler at the back of the cylinder.
Mine doesn't have that and it runs fine. In fact, any lubrication and it will
not run at all. I've tried everything from the Marvel Mystery Oil as the plans
state to dry graphite. Every time I have to rip it apart and clean back out
to nothing. Then it will start easily and run fine.
rake60
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We're waiting for an update Jack.
I really like that little engine. I built 5 flame lickers.
3 won't start at all, one will sputter every now and then, but the Poppin
will start on the 4th or 5th spin of the flywheels.
It's the best flame licker model design I've ever seen.
By the look of the parts you've shown so far I'm sure you'll have a
runner!
I really like that little engine. I built 5 flame lickers.
3 won't start at all, one will sputter every now and then, but the Poppin
will start on the 4th or 5th spin of the flywheels.
It's the best flame licker model design I've ever seen.
By the look of the parts you've shown so far I'm sure you'll have a
runner!
I'm really jealous of your flame lickers. You'd better show us the finished engine Jack.
Rake,
I read somewhere that alcohol (maybe just meths?) contain a small amount of water. Therefore it's advised to lit the burner and let it burn for a minute or so to let the water evaporize before putting it next to the engine. It would be interesting if you'd try this and see if there's any difference in difficulty with starting.
Rake,
I read somewhere that alcohol (maybe just meths?) contain a small amount of water. Therefore it's advised to lit the burner and let it burn for a minute or so to let the water evaporize before putting it next to the engine. It would be interesting if you'd try this and see if there's any difference in difficulty with starting.
rake60
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Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) that is 91% alcohol and 9% water.
It burns with a yellow to blue flame. A little sooty, but not terrible.
It works OK without pre-burning. If you look hard enough you'll find
ethyl alcohol in the drug store. It burns hotter than isopropyl but it is
usually only 70% alcohol, so you do have to let it burn until the flame
the flame loses all it's yellow. The problem with ethyl is you can't
always see the flame. It's a very light pale blue. I've reached for more
than one burner that I'd thought had gone out to find it very much
alive.
It burns with a yellow to blue flame. A little sooty, but not terrible.
It works OK without pre-burning. If you look hard enough you'll find
ethyl alcohol in the drug store. It burns hotter than isopropyl but it is
usually only 70% alcohol, so you do have to let it burn until the flame
the flame loses all it's yellow. The problem with ethyl is you can't
always see the flame. It's a very light pale blue. I've reached for more
than one burner that I'd thought had gone out to find it very much
alive.
rake60
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Not rushing you Jack, just anxious to see your engine.
The spring pressure does hold the valve open.
I never thought of using a bearing for the cam follower. That's a great
idea! If it's thicker than the roller in the plan, there's plenty of room on
the crankshaft to move the flywheel outward to clear it.
The countersink in the head goes to the inside.
The .002 feeler gauge for the valve is another great idea. I spent a good
bit of time looking for a suitable material. That I had and never thought
of.
The spring pressure does hold the valve open.
I never thought of using a bearing for the cam follower. That's a great
idea! If it's thicker than the roller in the plan, there's plenty of room on
the crankshaft to move the flywheel outward to clear it.
The countersink in the head goes to the inside.
The .002 feeler gauge for the valve is another great idea. I spent a good
bit of time looking for a suitable material. That I had and never thought
of.
Do you sill have the ones that won't start i would love to try to get them working. I am a tinker and being disable it keeps my mind busy and i love to solve problems. Let me know and i get you my info
