NORMAN (Goldstar 31) new sieg C4 lathe tips

[bazmak]

I have opened this thread on behalf of Norm.for anybody to give advise or answer questions specifically on the Sieg Sc4. This can be confirmed by Norm
Please supply basic spec for it Norm aon i will try to dig up some past photos and repost

 

[goldstar31]

Initially, Thanks Barry

The spec plate is as follows
SIEGC4
Year 2007
Motor 230V 50Hz 1.8HO
Output 1.3HP
Spindle speed 100-2000rpm
Swing over bed 210mm
Centre distance 450mm
Spindle taper 3MT
Tail Stock 2MT

Spindle clearance 20mm
Max tool size 10 x 10mm
Crosslide travel 100mm
Dia of chuck 100mm
Tail stock ram 40mm
Feedrate 0.045/0.125mm
Metric threads 0.25 - 3mm
Imperial threads 8 - 56 TPI
size 1000 x 550 x 400mm
Weight 94KG

Apart from being white and( hush) a bit cleaner all that is different is the Sieg DRO's.
I now have the faceplate and the 100mm 3 jaw
on order is the single replacement DRO and a 1000mm 4 jaw independent and a fixed steady

I've just stripped the QCTP, saddle and whatever. Summing up- no perceptual wear but once cleaned I have to test the ability to face

And so on. Oh, off set centres, boring heads, rotary tables, dividing heads down to -well, GHT standard.

Probably, ignoring two Myford, a Unimat clone, a watchmakers lathe and a crate of tool and cutter grinders, a 6 x4 saw and a mill drill, probably that is more or less it. Digressing, Migs and Arcs and silver soldering tackle

So really, just what most guys have acquired .

Does this help, please?

The rest of the swag is ER25 collets, 3 vertical slides( Myford), centres, running centres, drill chucks(galore), die holders, holders, slotting attachment, vee thing and assorted vices of all sizes, 3 Potts milling spindles, test bars, dial gauges, magnetic stands, clock gauges down to 2 tenths imperial blocks,

 

[bazmak]

My suggestion for chuck fixings Norm

 

[goldstar31]

G'Morning Barry

Point taken and I have a 20mm gap between the lathe headstock body and the spindle flange.
Too early in the day for post/deliveries etc but had a good natter with a friend who, like you, is interested in my so called progress.

He's got two Super7b's full and also a Harrison as he is building a traction engine.

In this troubled World, it is nice to find nice people

Thank You

Norm

 

[goldstar31]

Lost my original post--SORRY

N

 

[goldstar31]

Start Again!!!

Since Barry's helpful notes, I have been able to replace the defunct DRO on the saddle with a spare. £50 and a right so and so to adjust but it is done.

Again, on a shopping spree, I have a faceplate, a 4 jaw independent chuck and an adaptor to take my existing ER25 collets.

A further rummage has traced the adapter to utilise my No2MT stuff in the No3 MT spindle.

So all is well apart from thanking Barry!


Norm

 

[BucksMachinist]

I know its an old thread but what DRO did you replace? Digital ReadOut?

Start Again!!!

Since Barry's helpful notes, I have been able to replace the defunct DRO on the saddle with a spare. £50 and a right so and so to adjust but it is done.

Again, on a shopping spree, I have a faceplate, a 4 jaw independent chuck and an adaptor to take my existing ER25 collets.

A further rummage has traced the adapter to utilise my No2MT stuff in the No3 MT spindle.

So all is well apart from thanking Barry!


Norm

 

[goldstar31]

I initially replaced the longditunal (sp?)one and after a bit of a lay off- 'flu, holidays and winter, I found that the crosslide battery was exhausted but couldn't replace it with a SR44 battery-- and the plastic holder had been snapped.

So I can get a replacement, the cost is £50 and I'm loathe to part with that for a 'bit of plastic'. My thoughts are to make a new battery holder from cheap car bodge.

As far as I can see, there is always the risk of separating the wiring

strap from the little circuit board. Indeed, guilty as charged!

Regards

Norm

 

[BucksMachinist]

I have a spare DRO that no longer works. The battery holder is in perfect shape tho. I'm not sure how much is would cost to ship it to you if you are interested.
Actually, I am wondering if you have the old style or the new style DRO's? Is it silver of black casing?

I initially replaced the longditunal (sp?)one and after a bit of a lay off- 'flu, holidays and winter, I found that the crosslide battery was exhausted but couldn't replace it with a SR44 battery-- and the plastic holder had been snapped.

So I can get a replacement, the cost is £50 and I'm loathe to part with that for a 'bit of plastic'. My thoughts are to make a new battery holder from cheap car bodge.

As far as I can see, there is always the risk of separating the wiring

strap from the little circuit board. Indeed, guilty as charged!

Regards

Norm

 

[BucksMachinist]

Is this thread just for questions on the SC4 or can I also post mods to the SC4 here or should I start a new thread. I'd Love to see more threads on the SC4 !

 

[bazmak]

Anything on the Sc4 gratefully accepted

 

[goldstar31]

Perhaps Barry could change the title for others who are interested.

I don't think that I will be alone in looking forward to any valuable contributions on these machines

Cheers and thanks

Norman

 

[bazmak]

As yet i have not done many mods except carriage lock and stop
Havent needed any or even adjusted slides etc I just use it
Ideal upgrade by sieg would be to get rid of the main drive
disengage and fit backgears for more torque.Also add tumbler reverse gears
for reversing the leadscrew.I would certainly upgrade

 

[goldstar31]

As yet i have not done many mods except carriage lock and stop
Havent needed any or even adjusted slides etc I just use it
Ideal upgrade by sieg would be to get rid of the main drive
disengage and fit backgears for more torque.Also add tumbler reverse gears
for reversing the leadscrew.I would certainly upgrade

I've adjusted my slides for the saddle and intend to alter the central gib screw to lock the saddle . Alternatively, I would add a couple more gib screws.

These will have to be made and as I am unhappy about the pointed ends, it will be a job to make better stuff on the-- new-- tool and cutter grinder.:hDe:

As for adding a reverse etc, this should be feasible to do 'in house' as the 918/920( Mine was a 9180) in the past. Mine was supposed to have its slowest speed as 100 rpm which was too damned quick for me but it was actually 130rpm.

Clearly, there is a LOT of room for improvement.

As an aside, Barry, there is a lot of information from the pen of Martin Cleeve about both a gearbox and , of course, his dog clutch. It could be utilized?


Meantime, more snow and ice and therefore little enthusiasm

Norm

 

[goldstar31]

I have a spare DRO that no longer works. The battery holder is in perfect shape tho. I'm not sure how much is would cost to ship it to you if you are interested.
Actually, I am wondering if you have the old style or the new style DRO's? Is it silver of black casing?

Both casings are sort of silver which I assume is the latest version.

Might I thank you for the generous offer of a spare battery holder but with living alone as an old, deaf widower, I have enormous problems with postal deliveries.

Failing a home made battery holder, I can buy a complete unit again.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Following my comments to Barry( Bazmak), I might add a request for additional metric gears. Laughingly, I have full sets of Imperial gear cutters-- mumble, mumble!

Regards and thanks to both

N

 

[goldstar31]

deleted post

 

[goldstar31]

Unable to Delete after son's test

 

[BucksMachinist]

Awesome. I have made a lot of mods to my lathe so I have a lot to share. I’m currently modifying the compound rest. My compound rest is slightly different from yours. I have the modified version from Little Machine Shop. The T slots are eliminated and a step is machine in to the top of the slide to accept the AXA tool post. It works well but you cannot rotate compound past a certain degree if you were machining away from the chuck. I’m taking pictures of the mods and I’ll post them here to explain further

Anything on the Sc4 gratefully accepted

 

[BucksMachinist]

I am unsure of what you mean by getting rid of the main drive disengage ? Its probably because this is my first lathe and have no previous experience on any other machine. Wouldnt it be easier to change the belt drive ratio ?
I’ve never ran into an issue yet where I felt the lathe needed more torque. Actually I shouldnt say that, I have had one instance where I wished it had more torque. I was facing a piece of square 4.5” x 4.5” 01 tool steel and the motor was working hard and taking deep interupted cuts. I later discovered that I was using the wrong tool to face the part. It was my fault, being somewhat new to the lathe.
One thing I wish it did better was the motor breaking especially when threading. It stops super fast with the 4” 3 jaw chuck but with my 5C Collett Chuck and my 5” 4 jaw independent Chuck it takes a little more time. I have been wondering if there is away to increase the braking. I don’t know if it’s possible but I also have been considering fabricating a brake for the spindle using a bicycle disc brake and a foot pedal. It could fit inside the headstock.

As yet i have not done many mods except carriage lock and stop
Havent needed any or even adjusted slides etc I just use it
Ideal upgrade by sieg would be to get rid of the main drive
disengage and fit backgears for more torque.Also add tumbler reverse gears
for reversing the leadscrew.I would certainly upgrade

 

[BucksMachinist]

Im going to apologize in advance for all the questions I have for you!
The gib screw that you intend to modify, it it on the operators side or the back side ?

What is the 918/920 and 9180 number stand for? Is it a particular series or model number or production number for the lathe?

Mine rungs at 100 rpm as verified by a separate hall effect sensor I have.
As I stated above in the other post, cant we just cahange the ratio of the drive belt/pulleys? If we can will the rpm readout be off or does this machine get its signal from a preprogrammed setting?

Lastly, could you show me where to find this info on the gearbox and dogclutch f from Marting Cleeve?

Again, sorry for all of the questions. I am eager to learn more about these machines and want to absorb anything I can find as there isnt much info on the web on the SC4. If there is, then I just dont know where to find it or how to search for it.

I've adjusted my slides for the saddle and intend to alter the central gib screw to lock the saddle . Alternatively, I would add a couple more gib screws.

These will have to be made and as I am unhappy about the pointed ends, it will be a job to make better stuff on the-- new-- tool and cutter grinder.:hDe:

As for adding a reverse etc, this should be feasible to do 'in house' as the 918/920( Mine was a 9180) in the past. Mine was supposed to have its slowest speed as 100 rpm which was too damned quick for me but it was actually 130rpm.

Clearly, there is a LOT of room for improvement.

As an aside, Barry, there is a lot of information from the pen of Martin Cleeve about both a gearbox and , of course, his dog clutch. It could be utilized?


Meantime, more snow and ice and therefore little enthusiasm

Norm