Swifty's build of Howell V4

[Swifty]

Before I assembled the camshafts and gear train, I had to make a small screw that bleeds oil onto the gears. The drawing calls up to use a 2-56 brass hex screw and drill a .006"hole through the centre, I have all the fasteners purchased from Howells, but there is no allowance for this screw. The next best thing was to make one from scratch, so made one from some brass stock with a round head and cut a slot for tightening purposes. The other problem was that I had no drills anywhere near .006"dia, I would even find it hard to see them, so for the time being I used the smallest drill that I had, .020"dia. This will provide a lot more oil, but it all drains back into the crankcase anyway, if it has an adverse effect on the oil pressure, I can always make a new one after obtaining the correct drill, although this is about the smallest screw that I ever want to make.


Paul.

 

[gus]

Jerry Howell has many surprises for us.

Paul,
SOS SOS SOS.
I am all roaring to go hob first gear. Please advise how to align gear hob.

 

[Swifty]

Jerry Howell has many surprises for us.

Paul,
SOS SOS SOS.
I am all roaring to go hob first gear. Please advise how to align gear hob.

This is how I aligned the gear hob.


You can actually get it fairly accurate this way, depends on how good your eyesight is.

Paul.

 

[Swifty]

A bit more assembly has been going on, I also made a jig for bending the oil pick up pipe.





Paul.

 

[gus]

This is how I aligned the gear hob.


You can actually get it fairly accurate this way, depends on how good your eyesight is.

Paul.

Thanks .Maestro.

Gear hobbing can proceed tomorrow.

 

[jimjam66]

That's looking wonderful, Paul! Can't wait for the video.

 

[RonGinger]

I was trying to make a gas jet for a boiler and saw a good way to make very tiny holes. You make a tapered end on the jet, drill the smallest hole you can, then make a hardened steel female cone. This is run in over the pointed jet and swedges the jet down to a smaller size. I had modest luck with this.

 

[ozzie46]

Before I assembled the camshafts and gear train, I had to make a small screw that bleeds oil onto the gears. The drawing calls up to use a 2-56 brass hex screw and drill a .006"hole through the centre, I have all the fasteners purchased from Howells, but there is no allowance for this screw. The next best thing was to make one from scratch, so made one from some brass stock with a round head and cut a slot for tightening purposes. The other problem was that I had no drills anywhere near .006"dia, I would even find it hard to see them, so for the time being I used the smallest drill that I had, .020"dia. This will provide a lot more oil, but it all drains back into the crankcase anyway, if it has an adverse effect on the oil pressure, I can always make a new one after obtaining the correct drill, although this is about the smallest screw that I ever want to make.


Paul.

Well done. Don't sneeze.

I have plans for this engine. Don't know when I'll get started though. I'll need to make the gear hob for the gears also.

Ron

 

[Swifty]

Been a bit short of workshop time the last few days, however, today I managed to make a valve seat cutter. A short off-cut of silver steel was held in the chuck and drilled and reamed in the centre to take a 1/8"pilot, the same size as the valve stems. I then turned the end down at a 45 deg angle to suit the seat required.


Next, I held it in a collet block and machined the tooth form.


Then it was heat treated, a sandblast to clean up the scale, and the teeth ground. I'm lucky that I have a small cutter grinder where I can hold parts in a collet, rotate at the required angle and index the part around to grind the teeth, as well as grind some back clearance.


Here's the finished cutter with the pilot in place, I didn't bother with a locking screw for the pilot, as it's a good fit in the hole.


2 rotations of the cutter by hand in each valve guide gave plenty of seat area. Now I just have to lap the valves.


It only took about 90 minutes from start to finish to make the valve seat cutter and put it to use, well worth the effort.

Paul.

 

[gus]

Well done on the valve seat cutters. th_wav
Did the valve lapping manually on my Howell V-2.

SOS SOS. Please advise tooth height/depth for the 48 Pitch Gears. Been doing it by eye ball judgement that is trial and error. Now using 1000 rpm spindle speed.

 

[Swifty]

Drawing states .045" depth of cut, I would have stuck to this. I seem to recall that I included a note of how deep when I sent you the cutter

Paul.

 

[gus]

Drawing states .045" depth of cut, I would have stuck to this. I seem to recall that I included a note of how deep when I sent you the cutter

Paul.

Thanks for info. You have great memory. Cross Feed Dial Broke into pcs. Will bush engineer a way to get 45 thou depth. Believe I am 5 thou too deep.

 

[Swifty]

I have now lapped the valves to their seats. I numbered the heads 1 and 2, and then engraved on the valves 1 through to 8, so they are always matched to their individual seats. I held the end of the valve with my micro drill chuck and used diamond lapping paste on the valve seat, I was able to press down on the valve with my finger whilst rotating the valve to get it to lap in.



And here we have everything fitted to the heads, I just have to make some nuts for the push rods and then I can screw the heads to the block.



Paul.

 

[gus]

Micro drill chuck now become micro valve lapper. Many thanks for this tip. th_wav I cheated ,using a mini cordless drill.

 

[jimjam66]

It constantly amazes me how many tiny 'bits' it takes to make a running engine! Magnificent work, Paul, I'm on the edge of my seat.

 

[Swifty]

If I keep on pecking away at it, I gradually get a little bit closer. Time has been at a premium lately, in between running my wife around to therapy due to her knee replacement (although she is allowed to drive now), and the birth of 2 more grandchildren during the last 4 weeks, I have been kept occupied with other things. I managed to get the heads on, with the rockers properly adjusted for correct clearance, I don't think that I would be any good at making ships in bottles, I find this engine fiddly enough to deal with.



Paul.

 

[ICEpeter]

Hello Swifty,
That is a good looking engine and it shows the great workmanship done by you. Have a question though: being curious about what you use for sealing the flat surfaces on the engine; for example the cylinder head to the engine main body, etc. Are you using gaskets or a sealant without gasket? Looking forward to hear the engine popping soon! Thanks.

Peter J.

 

[Swifty]

Hi Peter, it's all sealed with O rings. If you look at posting #364, you will see that there is an O ring groove around the cylinder liners. This sealed the cylinder gasses, as well as stops coolant from leaking (hopefully).

Paul.

 

[michael-au]

Beautiful engine Paul, fantastic workmanship
will be nice to see it running

Michael

 

[gus]

Good looking Engine by a Master Tool Maker!!!