Demon V8 Slow Build

[Maxine]

I am going to start working on my version of the Huck Demon V8. I won't CAD draw the whole thing but certain parts will be drawn before I start cutting. I will only be able to work on it one evening a week or so so it will be a slow build. So here I go. Working on CAD for the blower right now. Attached is a picture of what I have drawn so far.

 

[stevehuckss396]

If there is anything I can do to help, let me know.

 

[agmachado]

A great project!!!

Good luck and I will be here watching!

Cheers,

Alexandre

 

[ozzie46]

As will I.

Ron

 

[rleete]

Cool. I've been a fan of superchargers since I was a kid. So much so, that I went and got one for my Miata.

Interested to see this one take shape.

 

[Maxine]

I am making an attempt to do the whole block except the ends in one set up on a 4th axis on my CNC. It's a real learning exercise for me but I am getting there with the programming.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3G3Pbjqy6M[/ame]

 

[Maxine]

I finally got my fourth axis installed and started making a few chips. Here is a pic of the engine block after roughing passes. So far, so good.

[ame]http://youtu.be/uMBCUMsNbdc[/ame]

 

[stevehuckss396]

That's awesome!


How did you create the Gcode to use the 4th? Do you have CAM software that will handle a 4th?

 

[mu38&Bg#]

Looks great!

Looks like VisualMill?

 

[Maxine]

That's awesome!


How did you create the Gcode to use the 4th? Do you have CAM software that will handle a 4th?

Thank you Steve, coming from you that means something! I have used Alibre for CAD work ever since it came out and then I added Alibre CAM about three years ago. Yes it is a version of VisualMill that runs inside Alibre. It is not quite as sophisticated as programs like MasterCam but 2 things I really like about it: 1) since it runs inside Alibre if I make any changes to my CAD models the CAM picks up the changes immediately and modifies the tool paths to suit. That saves me a ton of time since I tend to draw and tinker and modify my way along with things as I design them. 2) It is fairly simple to learn and use so if I don't need the very highest end sophisticated tool paths it is quicker and easier for me to get the Gcode done. This is the first part that I cut on my new 4th using full 4th motion (as opposed to just indexing). It was fairly easy to program and so far making the chips has gone well and without error.

The local sales guy for Solidworks tells me that there is now have a version of MasterCam that runs integral with Solidworks. That didn't exist when I bought Alibre CAM. If I was buying again today I would research both programs but I am definitely happy with what I have and would likely go this way again due to cost. I have been able to program almost any part I want so far with ease and success. One important point though, Alibre CAM does not support lathe tool paths. I use the MasterCam seat that we have at work for lathe stuff or just program parts directly on the lathe control. That's easy on the Haas with Intuitive Programming.

I am looking forward to getting my version of your V8 design done and running Steve. Next up once I put the finish passes on the block (10 thou left for a nice finish pass plus boring all the pockets and drilling/tapping the bolt holes) will be the camshaft and crankshaft. I have the material in hand and I want to program both of those using the 4th axis as well which should work out slick but I haven't drawn them up in CAD yet so it will be a while I guess.

Cheers and thanks for the compliments!

Maxi

 

[mu38&Bg#]

I've never looked at AlibreCam before. It's obviously done by Mecsoft who do VisualMill. The pricing is identical.

 

[Maxine]

I haven't had much free time to spend in the shop over the last month but I did make a little progress today.

 

[Maxine]

What do the experienced guys here think of using 1144 Stressproof for the CAM on the Demon V8? The Stressproof Rc is in the low to mid 30's if I remember right but I'd have to look it up to be sure. The plans call out tool steel but I am wondering about dimensional stability when hardening. I have used Stressproof for a lot of other stuff like keyed or splined drive shafting and it's been great, but will it wear badly on the CAM lobes? I have some cut off drops of the right size Stressproof on hand as well as some similar sized pieces of 4130, 4140 and 4340. Or I can order up some tool steel for a few bucks. Just looking for advice before I start cutting the CAM. I am planning on making several spares while I have it all set up on the mill so selecting the right material is important up front. Advice and input would be appreciated. I do plan to use stressproof for the crank.

Maxi

 

[Maxine]

Too busy at work to spend much time in the shop lately but I did get a few hours in this evening. Got 28 valves made and test heat treated a couple. These were trickier to make than I expected. Slow progress on the Hucks V8 but it's still progress.

Maxi

 

[stevehuckss396]

What do the experienced guys here think of using 1144 Stressproof for the CAM on the Demon V8? The Stressproof Rc is in the low to mid 30's if I remember right but I'd have to look it up to be sure. The plans call out tool steel but I am wondering about dimensional stability when hardening.

Just use the 01 Drill rod for the cam and don't harden. I did it in the peewee and after running 3 years and heavy at show time it still works like new.

 

[Maxine]

OK thanks for that advice Steve. I appreciate it. It is timely because I am hoping to have time to make the cam and crank in the next few weeks. I am also ready to make the lobes for the blower. Did you ever get a running version of the blown engine done?

 

[stevehuckss396]

OK thanks for that advice Steve. I appreciate it. It is timely because I am hoping to have time to make the cam and crank in the next few weeks. I am also ready to make the lobes for the blower. Did you ever get a running version of the blown engine done?

No I have not. I have been working 6 days, 10 hours so I have no fun time. I have not been in the garage in months.

 

[Maxine]

Yeah I know how you feel. Not much fun/shop time here either lately due to a big capital project at work. That's why I bugged out a few hours early today and went to the shop. In April we start a 50 + day turnaround so I can write off from mid April to early June. Argh! You don't suppose I could be the first to get the blower version running do you? Naw, at the rate I am going it is going to be a long, long build.

Cheers,

Maxi

 

[Maxine]

I finally got some time away from work and out into the shop to work on my Demon V8. Picking the project back up it was time to drill all the holes in the block. I started on the main bearing holes and sure enough on the second hole I snapped the drill bit off. I jumped over to another hole and darn if I didn't snap another. ARGH! Very discouraging as both bits are broken off and stuck down in the the holes. So obviously I need to brush up on the right way to use these very small drill bits. I have very rarely used drills this small. Any advice? I was using a #43, these were brand new bits, 4000 RPM and 2 IPM feed rate, bit held in a ER16 collet. I am using a Haas TM-1 CNC, flood coolant and pecking every 0.1 inches. The depth of these main bearing holes is 0.5". One bit broke off just as it was finishing the last step down, the other broke off on the third peck.

I am hoping this block isn't scrap but I might as well try drilling all the other holes to make sure I get this down right. Many are even smaller than the #43's I was trying today. Then I will try to fish the broken bits out and save the block if I can.

I am self taught at machining so I sure could use some advice from the pro's on here while I wait for new bits to come from MSC.

Maxi

 

[stevehuckss396]

Everybody does it different but I never peck more than the diameter of the bit. A #43 bit is .086 so I would peck .050 - .075.

I use .050 @ 5 IPM alot and have never broken a bit. I always spot drill first if that means anything.