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Old 12-19-2012, 10:45 PM   #1
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Default Mechanical Clutch

My brain never stops!!! Not all of my ideas are good ones, but I never run out of mechanical things to think about. Playing about with my model sawmill has got me thinking about simple mechanical clutches. Not something that tightens or loosens a drive belt, and not something that creates "drag" when disengaged. Rather some device that totally and completely disengages the driveshaft from whatever it is driving, and can be engaged softly like the clutch on an automobile, not with a sudden "grab and lurch". It would have to be simple, cheap, small, and a minimum of moving parts. I have many small, single race ball bearings from disassembling various "things" over the years, and they will take a lot of axial as well as radial pressure without failing. I was doodling on a piece of paper, and where the levers are in the sketch, think about a Destaco style clamp. Not the ones with the swinging lever, but the push/pull type. I see the friction material as being oak or maple, glued into a brass or aluminum housing. Not sure if I will build something like this or not, but it is intriguing!!!



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Old 12-20-2012, 06:39 AM   #2
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Very much like the cone clutches found on some hit & miss engines except a handwheel was turned to engage and isengage them rather than use a lever.

The make part of the cone had friction material on it



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Old 12-20-2012, 07:04 AM   #3
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Some outdrives on boats use the same set up and some posi traction rears.....steel on steel!

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Old 12-20-2012, 07:16 AM   #4
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Default clutch

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Originally Posted by Brian Rupnow View Post
My brain never stops!!! Not all of my ideas are good ones, but I never run out of mechanical things to think about. Playing about with my model sawmill has got me thinking about simple mechanical clutches. Not something that tightens or loosens a drive belt, and not something that creates "drag" when disengaged. Rather some device that totally and completely disengages the driveshaft from whatever it is driving, and can be engaged softly like the clutch on an automobile, not with a sudden "grab and lurch". It would have to be simple, cheap, small, and a minimum of moving parts. I have many small, single race ball bearings from disassembling various "things" over the years, and they will take a lot of axial as well as radial pressure without failing. I was doodling on a piece of paper, and where the levers are in the sketch, think about a Destaco style clamp. Not the ones with the swinging lever, but the push/pull type. I see the friction material as being oak or maple, glued into a brass or aluminum housing. Not sure if I will build something like this or not, but it is intriguing!!!
Hi Brian.
I have been following this build( and all your other ones)But when you say: "Not sure if I will build something like this or not, but it is intriguing!!!"
I know you will.

Best Regards
CS
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:30 AM   #5
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Brian, I think back in the day they preferred to use laminated leather for cones in friction clutches. Back to my shearing shed experience, an overhead shaft carried a large friction wheel for each shearing stand. A leather cone was used to engage with this wheel to drive a smaller shaft at right angles. I can't find a photo but photo 3 on this PDF shows one on a single stand electric version. They do mention wood cones in this document but I never saw one. Leather eventually gave way to synthetic cones.

http://www.kondiningroup.com.au/web_multimedia/startDownload.asp?strMultimediaFileName=FA128-28.pdf

You might be able to get away with machining your clutch cone out of a plastic. I reckon that you could machine laminated discs of leather into a cone shape as it is very stiff.

I also remember a ride on mower we had as a kid that had a siimilar leather cone mounted directly to a 8 hp engine drive shaft that sat between two friction plates mounted to the rear axle, one on each side of the cone. Moving a lever moved the engine sideways. One side drove forwards, moving the cone to the other plate drive in reverse and of course, in the middle was neutral.

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Old 12-20-2012, 10:08 AM   #6
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The angle of the taper determines whether the clutch will lock or not. It depends on the coefficient of friction of the 2 materials. If you do a google search, there is a wealth of info out there. I'll have to check the angle on a cast iron clutch on a stationary engine which is currently removed.

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Old 12-22-2012, 02:21 PM   #7
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And moving from hand doodles to CAD doodles, we have this. What I have attempted to do here is to ensure that all axial loads are transferred thru the ball bearings instead of any sliding surfaces betwen rotating mechanical parts.


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Old 12-22-2012, 04:49 PM   #8
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Bad on me!!! I forgot to show the drive pin and slot in the shaft in the first drawing I posted.

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Old 12-22-2012, 08:09 PM   #9
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This is the first part I will make. As you can see, I have added a second groove to it, simply because I have the room. This entire clutch is not going to be a study in superior engineering. Its something to do to keep me from going nuts during the ensuing festive season. I THINK it will work fine and I will post drawings as I go along, because I have to make them anyways for myself. If it works really really great, then you can copy the drawings and save them. If it doesn't work, then at least it will have amused you.

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Old 12-22-2012, 10:49 PM   #10
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Here is a little trick that works for me. When I want to go to a non critical flat bottomed hole in a part, which has a smaller thru bore already in it, I stick this 1" dia. 4 flute end mill in the tailstock chuck with my lathe on its lowest speed (about 150 rpm) and crank it in. This seems to put a smaller chip load on the lathe than cranking in a 1" drill bit, and I can go full depth in one shot without having to worry about a tapered bottom like you get from a drill. This side will now be opened out with a boring tool to 1 5/16" diameter, and then I will set my topslide over 25 degrees to make the final taper.



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