Originally Posted by Herbiev
Wow. I am still at the basic steam engine stage (built one so far) but I'm looking forward to following this build. Good luck and heaps of photos please
Originally Posted by shoprat
very nice looking build,i haven't got there yet! I'll be watching this one
keep on posting pics and progress reports.
I will try to post plenty of pics! I haven't taken many so far and have a habit of not stopping when I'm going so I normally forget the camera until after I finished the part I was making
Originally Posted by doubletop
That's looking really nice, and you are making all your own fittings rather than go out any buy them.
What is the purpose of the jig?
I'm looking forward to seeing more
I chose to make my own fittings as practice due to my lack of experience with a lathe. It also helps me understand how they all work. The own thing I will buy however is the injector just so I know it works when needed!
The jig? I assume that you mean the large metal frame in front of the engine in the first photo? If so, that isn't a jig but the tender frames and two bogie (truck) frames. The whole thing is upside down in the picture. I've recently moved on with one of the bogie's and looks like this (with some in progress parts):
LBSC says to make the tender frame by bending two lengths of steel into long 'c' shapes and riveting them together. That didn't sound strong enough to me so I just used two lengths of steel bolted onto two 0.5" drag bars (all made into the same dimensions).
He also says that the bogie frames should be brazed together from eleven parts in one go! My small butane blowtorch was not up to that so the top frame was cut from a 6x7 inch 3/16" steel plate rather than fabricated and the horns silver soldered on one by one by eye without the use of a heat sucking jig.
I've also gone against convention by part maching the wheels, fixing them to the axles then finishing the tread.
Originally Posted by GWRdriver
First let me commend you on a nicely turned out, crisp and workmanlike first attempt. Well done so far. I also note with great interest that Cheddar used the same dodge I have used on a couple of occasions to avoid the bother and expense of making the middle boiler course of a traditional truncated cone. That dodge being to dispense with the tapered course and run the barrel tube straight into the smokebox. Far easier (and less expensive) to do and although this can't help but reduce steam and water capacity a bit, if all else is well done the overall effect will be negligible and an argument could be made that a boiler so made will be stronger.
Many thanks for your kind words!
The boiler has been made to LBSC's specifications (other than the use of bushes for the fittings rather than threaded holes in the copper and copious amounts of plumbers mait!).
It is odd however that Cheddar have not taken into account the errors in the drawings. When made to drawing, the boiler will not fit in the frames if equalised springing for the driving wheels is used (that was a good few hours wasted machining the cast springs etc). Secondly, there is hardly any room for the blow down valve. The bushing is practically the same plane as the rear axle and only gives about 3/4" clearance
. That is a problem (challenge) for later on though! I'll be sure to consult these forums for advice when I decide to tackle it.
I should really say now that my old Unimat has finally killed its motor and has been sold on to a local tool merchant to be repaired and re-sold. Its replacement is a Clarke CL250M http://chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Clarke-CL250M-Variable-Speed-Metal-Lathe.html
since I do not have space in my shared and rented flat for anything bigger! So far it seems to be up to the job and making progress much easier.