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Home Model Engine Machinist > The Tools and Tips > The Shop > Setting up Shop Questions - from an NZ learner

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Old 08-23-2017, 09:42 AM   #591
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Default Fixing errant rear drips on the bandsaw coolant system

There is a tendency for some drips to travel back on the blade and hit the rear frame. This will get worse the more of an angle the saw starts on. So having designed up the idea for a rear catchment system to catch the errant drips here are some pics of the idea pre welding. You will see a small welding magnet in the pics. This is really just holding things in place with its weight since the parts are made from 50x50mm ali angle. Obviously if I was making these stands as semi production I would change the design to ensure the saw was fully on the inside. But since this is a one-off this little addendum should do the trick nicely.





Cheers,
J.


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Old 08-24-2017, 08:31 AM   #592
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Default Rear drip catch all welded up

Got the parts welded and all cleaned up. Plan for the weekend is to get things all mounted up.







Cheers,
J.


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Old 11-29-2017, 09:03 AM   #593
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Default Lathe Stand Updates

Some updates to the lathe stand.

[1] Boxed in 3 sides with 19mm plywood. This has a benefit of keeping swarf and "crap" out of the shelves better but most importantly it added a massive amount of rigidity to the stand. Really surprising amounts. If I was doing this all from scratch I would incorporate 2mm steel sheet in the mix as well as a method to added wheels on slide in box section. Maybe one day if I get really enthused.


[2] Added a riser to the splash back. This will prevent stray drops going behind the lathe and also provides a convenient area to stop tool holders and other items on.


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J.
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Old 12-24-2017, 08:47 AM   #594
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Default Getting some storage for tool holders

The name of this update was to provide toolholder storage. I wanted them more easily accessable BUT not in a position that would have me reaching over the chuck. This holder style is not new as I have seen other doing the same type of thing. It's basiclly 50mm Ali alngle cut into 40mm wide sections. The have them all mounted on a strip of woood.


The result all finished and mounted up.


Spacer at the bottom to provide some angle on the holder.


The top mount using 25x25mm ali angle.


Bungie over the toolholders when not using the lathe. Down here in NZ the earth tends to rock and roll a bit so anything that can be shaken off really should have some kind of restrain on it. And I really dont want these heavy holders falling down onto the lathe.


General overview of the lathe and the growing set of improvements.


Cheers,
James
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Old 12-24-2017, 10:11 PM   #595
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I too need to re- think my QC toolholder storage when i finally get my lathe back together ! Its been to hot here in Sydney to do much in the shed , today is food and grog then hopefully boxing day won't be a scorcher so i can get back into it .

Merry Christmas mate .
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Old 12-25-2017, 05:22 AM   #596
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Happy Christmas Ian and to all readers on the forum.
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Old 12-31-2017, 04:23 AM   #597
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Default A bit of tooling work and a new threaded method

Over the last number of days I've been slowly working on another toolholder for the QCTP and while doing it I decided to make use of the setups to make a number of the sub parts for later .i.e. multiple M10x1 rods and the height/locking wheels. I also delved into the use of the "Method 3" as described in "Screw Cutting in the Lathe" by Martin Cleeve on page 139. In this method the topslide is parallel to the ways, not at 29.5 degs (assuming a 60 deg thread form). In this method you achieve the same diagonal tracking of the tool tip by moving the topslide half of the cross slide movement. The main advantage I can see is that it is easy to get to the correct depth via the cross slide then you can, if needed, thin the thread my moving the topslide a couple of 100ths of a mm at a time.

So some pics ...

The blank roughed out ready to use dovetail cutter on.


Some blanks ready for further work. Wheels tapped M10x1 and the threaded rods cut M10x1 using the "Method 3" I talked about at the start of this post.


The wheels mounted on a threaded rod and held in an ER32 collet on the mill. The block of the holder is a hex so you a pretty simple exercise of getting the depth of cut lined up (using an 8mm end mill and 1mm depth of cut from the edge of the circle) and just keep rotating the block in the vice until all the little half moons are cut out.


The end result with a completed toolholder and my last tool without a home mounted in it. The M8 cap screws have been shortened in the lathe and the ends make nice an flat and chamfered. The threaded rod has had a flat milled on the blank head. The rsult in an effective 8mm nut for locking the shaft in nice and tight into the toolholder base. No loctite really needed here as there is no load on this part of the tool.




The extra parts that were made and in their sub assembly ready for three more toolholders to be made.


Cheers,
James.
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Old 01-13-2018, 03:24 AM   #598
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Default Building a coolant tank for bandsaw

Evolving the coolant system on the bandsaw with a "flash" custom built ali tank.

The weir welded in before other sides are put on.


Side panel in which the connection fitting will be welded. This supports the tube connections between pump and the coolant line external to the tank.




Just showing my attempt at welding around the fitting. Still getting more frosting from cleaning action than I think is supposed to happen.


Top view looking into the tanl with the pump in the position it will ultimately be installed in.


Bit of an overview of the tank to date.

Next major activity is to fully weld all the seams up.

To supprt that process I needed a means to support my hand over a ~30cm welding seam at a really ticky height. So taking inspiration from what I have seen on Welding Tips and Tricks I found some offcut 35mm square tubing, got some 20mm ID (27mm OD) galvanized pipe and a flange fitting from Bunnings and hacked this up. Key parts are:
- 1200mm length of 20mm galv pipe, cut that in half
- 20mm galv flange fitting, acts as the base
- off cut 35mm SHS
- M8 cap screws and nuts







Cheers,
J.
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Old 01-13-2018, 08:09 AM   #599
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Default Water tightness test

Water leak testing underway ...



After a couple of hours still bone dry on all seams.
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Old 01-13-2018, 08:28 PM   #600
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People build boats this way so if you are scaling up, a nice 30 foot sailboat would be a good project.


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